A12 - time to get busy

gomopar440 said:
An easy old school trick to get brighter lights without switching to LED's is to paint the inside of those open bulb light fixtures with gloss bright white paint. It's more light reflective than the silver that's usually painted in them at the factory.
Click to expand...
Too late now! :D

Actually they're still on the bench so I could still spray them, but I might not. You see, I'm lazy.

FWIW the socket is easy to mask, a lid off a cheap bottle of water pretty much snaps right over it.
 
It seemed counter-intuitive to me when I first heard about that trick. I tested it out on my '68 Power Wagon tail lights, painting one bright white inside, and painting the other bright silver. I made sure both sockets and grounds were cleaned of any corrosion, lenses were cleaned up and then installed new bulbs from a twin pack. When I lit them up at night, the difference was pretty clear. Silver has some black in the tint, and I believe that is why the silver wasn't as bright as the white.
 
I gave in to peer pressure and went ahead and painted the reflector area white before finishing them up and installing them.

Prepping the battery box/supports for paint and thinking about pulling the timing cover off the engine to see if the chain is worn out or not. Next steps will follow that. I really need to check the bearings while it's out. Maybe?

I can roll the engine over (on a stand) with the lifters in so long as the whole valve train is in, right? I don't want to mess with that unless I absolutely have to. Obv you can't roll it over if the rockers or push rods are removed

No noise, good OP, no smoke before I took it apart.
 
I had some kind of tapping/knocking on mine , sounded like pass side of motor but it went away as soon as the oil got it soaked, took a chance & just cleaned everything up, I did remove adjustable rockers & put on stock ones with new push rods.
To my pleasent surprise 12 years later on it's first startup NO noise, sometimes you get lucky, couple of hundred miles later she still runs without any tapping!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
I had some kind of tapping/knocking on mine , sounded like pass side of motor but it went away as soon as the oil got it soaked, took a chance & just cleaned everything up, I did remove adjustable rockers & put on stock ones with new push rods.
To my pleasent surprise 12 years later on it's first startup NO noise, sometimes you get lucky, couple of hundred miles later she still runs without any tapping!
Click to expand...
Writing it down for posterity, you have to leave the distributor in too or you gotta pull the oil pump drive, and maybe the bushing too if it's loose. I don't know where that bushing could get to but not having to figure that out is better.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
I had some kind of tapping/knocking on mine , sounded like pass side of motor but it went away as soon as the oil got it soaked, took a chance & just cleaned everything up, I did remove adjustable rockers & put on stock ones with new push rods.
To my pleasent surprise 12 years later on it's first startup NO noise, sometimes you get lucky, couple of hundred miles later she still runs without any tapping!
Click to expand...
My Duster still sounds like somebody shaking a can full of rocks until it gets up to pressure. No idea why, it did the same thing with two different sets of lifters so I try to remember to not rev the engine until the gauge pops up from zero.
 
Running out of small tasks here.

Anyone have experience rebuilding/reinstalling side glass?

I painted (satin black) the battery tray and braces, installed those - probably should have waited but oh well. I don't remember ever having to remove a b-body battery tray for reasons before so doubtful I will this time.

I finshed up the heater box/vents. Installed the speedo cable and bracket for that and the battery cable. My car didn't have the upper battery bracket so I did the best guesstimate I could based on photos, and there it is.

I spent some time fixing a broken yellow wire to the starter relay. I don't have any of the correct terminals, so it took longer to find a correct terminal than it did to fix it. Never did find anything with yellow wire on it, but that's all covered by shrink wrap now.

How quick does weatherstrip adhesive set up? I've got the trunk ready to go, other than knowing how fast I have to work (IOW, how slow I can work). Do you really need to clip the thing in place to dry or is the stuff so quick you put it where it goes and you're done whether it's right or not, like spray adhesive is. The instructions don't really say other than to wait 10 minutes for off-gassing before putting it together.
 
Side glass is no fun, I cursed a lot doing the 'Cuda's , I bought like 4 used lots of the hardware & plastic pieces, did manage to get 2 good sets out of them, I think they sell it new now?
Just a lot of adjust this, that changes something else (just like hoods!) you'll finally get em "close enough"

Trunk seal I taped down over night I think, can't say whether I needed to or not?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Side glass is no fun, I cursed a lot doing the 'Cuda's , I bought like 4 used lots of the hardware & plastic pieces, did manage to get 2 good sets out of them, I think they sell it new now?
Just a lot of adjust this, that changes something else (just like hoods!) you'll finally get em "close enough"

Trunk seal I taped down over night I think, can't say whether I needed to or not?
Click to expand...
I bought all the hardware but at least some of it looks like a grinder is needed to replace the rollers. Easy enough, but where's the piece to replace what you have to grind off? I have to be missing something.

And by "all the hardware" I mean I loaded up every piece part I could find on multiple sites that were marked as glass parts for a 69 and no doubt I will still need to make at least one more order.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top