Wagon progress!

That's a pretty cool setup. Still not going to work for me, I don't want to have to redo the A/C in the next couple years.
 
Since I hadn't done anything to the wagon in a few days I figured I'd drop the tank and clean it out and blow out the lines. Well, the tank is trashed... So the search is on :helpme:
 

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So.......................................




........didja blow out the lines? :toot:
 
Lines look solid :helpme:. Have not blown them out, yet.

I still need a day or so to shuffle stuff around the garage to get it inside. Then I'll get the hood off, motor swinging and blow out the lines, and check everything else that's much easier to do without the engine in place, check the heater core, all the steel lines, etc. I want to pressure wash the engine bay and as much underneath as possible.

I checked the rear brakes, they are worn about out, but nothing is metal to metal, thank God. Without measuring the drums to verify their diameter, they seem to be fine with a resurfacing. I'll get them checked and machined when I get it off the ground. I'm doing a full rebuild on the rear, hopefully without drums, and I bought a set of stainless brake hoses.

I REALLY need to find some leaf springs, the original ones are wavy and I'm sure that's from being overloaded with air shocks trying to maintain the height.

The north end of the car is in similar shape, but the rotors look a little on the thin side, I did save the good rotors from the Monaco. I'll swap in some reman calipers, new stainless hoses and does anyone know where I can get some decent front brake pads for a C barge? I have a Dr Diff master cylinder adapter and a brand new late model master cylinder to swap on, that and a set of shocks should get the suspension up to driver status.

Murray Park has a gas tank, $300 to my door... Seems, at this point, that's going to be my best bet.
 
thats actualy a good price on a tank..i paid a lil less for my 58 ford tank...but theres atleast 2 companys making them and its the same tank for most of the 50s ford full size...made by spectra in canada
 
For brake pads, check Summit or Firm Feel. I found carbon metallic brakes for the Imperial and Challenger, which is not a popular number anymore.

My guess is that you're going to need main leaves more than anything for the springs; I would bet if you undo the U-bolts you'll find they're broken in half... another fundamental failing of trying to use the shock absorbers as load-bearing units. There are online outlets for leaf springs; if they can get/make them for my '61 (and they can) I'm sure your car will be no problem. Cheap? Of course not. But they do exist.

Good deal on the fuel tank. Normally, I'm not a fan of using coatings on them but with the availability issue only getting worse, I'd lean towards doing it to that tank. Check to see if a local radiator shop can boil it out for you first. I'd also suggest completely cleaning the exterior of it, starting with a power wash and ending with Scotch-Brite and bare metal, then priming and painting it. Five years from now they're only going to be more difficult to find, and certainly not cheaper. On that same note, it's that much more important to run an ethanol treatment in every tank of fuel. Alcohol is extremely corrosive, which is why flex-fuel cars have stainless lines and Viton seals throughout the system. The shit will eat aluminum and corrode non-stainless ferrous metal very quickly.
 
Its going to need more than just the mains to get the springs right. Every leaf supports the one above it. It is a system. Trust me here! I worked in a spring shop and made springs for 14 years. Do it right or don't do it! Also, NEVER reuse U-bolts! EVER! They stretch when they are tightened down. One time use here guys.
 
i second doc on the coating of the tank..both externaly and internaly.....i did the tank on my 58 ford with redkote and the external with epoxy prime and a layer of mack truck silver.....i have to run a lead additive in it and everything ive read says it also helps keep our crap gas from eating shit
 
Stretch said:
Its going to need more than just the mains to get the springs right. Every leaf supports the one above it. It is a system.
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Sorry, my intention wasn't to indicate he should just get mains. The online suppliers I mentioned were for complete springs--they don't sell components thereof.
 
Dr.Jass said:
I'd also suggest completely cleaning the exterior of it, starting with a power wash and ending with Scotch-Brite and bare metal, then priming and painting it.
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Use the best epoxy primer you can find. The paint isn't critical, anything will do. It's the epoxy primer that will do the protecting, the paint just keeps the epoxy from UV exposure.
 
restoman said:
Use the best epoxy primer you can find. The paint isn't critical, anything will do. It's the epoxy primer that will do the protecting, the paint just keeps the epoxy from UV exposure.
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and you would be blown away by exactly how much UV exposure stuff gets "under" a car...dont take that as my jokeing..the underside of anything that isnt sitting low in the weeds is ALOT...i used non uv protected stuff on my ramcharger tub belly and frame..most every inch of it is chalked up from UV related reflections
 
I did get a quote on springs, almost $800 to my door, I believe it was Eaton.

I planned on coating the tank, I'll make sure I prime and paint it as well.

The brake pads are D39, I believe they are the same as B/E body pads.

Opinions on shocks? Monroe-Matics? :bwuhaha:
 
71ChargerRT said:
I did get a quote on springs, almost $800 to my door, I believe it was Eaton.
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Damn, dude... send me half of the savings as a "thank you" gesture! The $300 option. They're not the only guys doing springs around this price range, but that was the first thing to come up in my Google search. I found them when I was looking for springs for mine own wagon. The local spring shop told me to buy from one of the online places; they couldn't touch the price.

On the shocks, I'd recommend KYB Gas-a-Just if they're available. It's the same design as Bilstein's monotube gas (they share the patent), but much less expensive. Yes, the Bilstein is without question a better-quality shock, but they're about twice as much money. You've got pretty big grocery bills to consider. You'll get 50-60,000 happy miles before the KYBs need attention. That's a long time in a hobby car.

Rancho 9000s aren't Bilstein or Koni. They're made by Monroe, so like everything Monroe (Tenneco) sells, they're overpriced, overrated garbage.
 
Dr.Jass said:
On the shocks, I'd recommend KYB Gas-a-Just if they're available. It's the same design as Bilstein's monotube gas (they share the patent), but much less expensive. Yes, the Bilstein is without question a better-quality shock, but they're about twice as much money. You've got pretty big grocery bills to consider. You'll get 50-60,000 happy miles before the KYBs need attention. That's a long time in a hobby car.

Rancho 9000s aren't Bilstein or Koni. They're made by Monroe, so like everything Monroe (Tenneco) sells, they're overpriced, overrated garbage.
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All I can say is DAMN! I just smile every time I read one of your posts like this...Such great info!
 
I found General Spring earlier today looking for leaf spring dimensions. I also realized I have the zero cost option, the rusty carcass of the 300 uses the same leaf springs. That car has less than 80K on it, and has been sitting for the better part of its life. I can order new springs when the wagon is running and driving, that way I can use that money to buy shocks and other parts right now.

I can find nothing on rear shocks, I'll try to match something up using dimensions, I remember my dad used K5 Blazer overload shocks on the rear of his '70 Imperial. Hmmm, wonder how close the dimensions on the shocks on my Ram match up to the stockers...
 
KG4507, correct fit front shocks. On the rear I found an option, KG6008A is really close and listed for heavy duty truck applications.
 
71ChargerRT said:
I found General Spring earlier today looking for leaf spring dimensions. I also realized I have the zero cost option, the rusty carcass of the 300 uses the same leaf springs.
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Pretty sure you're going to find out they're not the same springs. They may bolt in well enough, but expect Sag City back there. The wagon springs are considerably more robust, owing to the extra 500+lb over the rear wheels.

For the rear shocks, the KG5413 looks like a winner. You lose about 1/2" of travel at the extension limit, which shouldn't be a problem unless you do a lot of jumping or serious off-roading. When was the last time you actually hit full jounce (suspension droop)? :D While Gabriel lists the same shock on the rear of your wagon as they do for the '77-'93 D150, the KYB offering for that application (KG5423) is 2" longer when fully compressed, which to me would be unacceptable--you're much more likely to bottom the suspension, and you'd smack the shock internals rather than hit the snubbers.

The KG6008A would rattle and/or knock in its mounts. It has the wrong bushings at both ends: the lower is sleeved and will be loose on your shock plates; the upper sleeve is 1/4" larger in diameter than factory as well, and about 1/8" too long to boot. Both the KG5413 and the too-long-in-my-opinion KG5423 use the correct bushings, top and bottom.
 
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