Wagon progress!

[71ChargerRT]

There is none!


That said, I'm in the process of cleaning/clearing out my garage so the work can begin. What I have done is order up some parts so when I get started I'll have something to do.


Plans are; drop in the 1972 440 from other T&C, I have traded a '77 400 for a rebuilt set of 346 heads, new valves, rockers, springs, etc. for the 440. I ordered .020 head gaskets to install them when they arrive. Doc is rebuilding my other TQ, which should arrive there tomorrow. I did buy that Offy intake I sent you the link to Doc. I did a little research and ordered a B body 2.5" dual exhaust kit, minus mufflers, and since I'm running shorty headers I'll need some front pipes made up anyway so I can compensate for the 6" that I'm short in wheelbase. I ordered a Pertronix distributor, once everything was figured in the difference was less $20 over buying just the ignition.

I'm planning on yanking the stuck 400 this weekend, that way I can get the engine bay cleaned up and painted before proceeding. I think I will drop the gas tank and repair the spare tire well this weekend too.

 

[Dr.Jass]

With the engine out of the car, it's very little work to pull all the clips holding wires, etc. to the engine bay panels and let that stuff dangle in the engine bay. Do a little masking, clean everything with Wal-Mart's "Super Tech" carb cleaner, scuff the little paint that will remain and rattle-can the engine bay. Dupli-Color spray primer is actually pretty damned good, and a local auto supply should be able to make you a couple of spray bombs in your chosen paint code for around $15-$20 per can. Once that's all dolled up, you can worry about the rest of the paint job and refinishing later, but the underhood area's already done... cheap, easy and fast, just like the ex-wife.

 

[71ChargerRT]

Look at the miniscule difference between the '69 B & C bodies.

 

[71ChargerRT]

The inner fenders are chivy black. Just need a little something to redo the firewall.

I need to take a pic of the transmission cooler that they installed. You can tell whoever set it up was doing it to tow some heavy stuff.

 

[69.5CUDA]

like i said..this thing at one time was owned and operated by wildcat autowrecking....and it hauled some BEASTLY loads..go take a look at that hitch!!!!!

 

[71ChargerRT]

That hitch is a well built BEAST! It looks much stouter than the one on my 3/4 ton truck. I did see the leaf springs are all but shot, and it's running air shocks. Both of those will be replaced, and I'm going to dump the iso setup for standard mounts and 1" lowering blocks. Is there a polyurethane bushing kit for C body stub frames? Something to consider...

I'm seriously contemplating using the leaf spring relocation kit I've had sitting in my garage when it's time to swap out the springs.

 

[Dr.Jass]

Never you mind with lowering blocks. :naughty: They're a recipe for wheelhop. The more you increase the distance from the spring's mounting surface to the centerline of the axle shaft, more leverage is present to distort the spring, and the force the spring exerts when it snaps back to its correct shape is equally increased. Sewing-machine city.

You need springs anyway, so have stock replacements made with 1" less arch. Not only will this give you the look you seek, but the flatter the spring the better it works, so it increases handling too. Need another benefit? The less arch in the spring, the less sideways leverage is exerted on the spring bushings in turns or uneven surfaces. Another handling benefit that also increases bushing life. :dance:

I'm not aware of anyone making poly K-member mounts for the barges, but perhaps thrashingcows or someone at the C-body Drydock or other large-car forums would know. I checked the Energy Suspensions, polybushings.com, and Firm Feel sites but a phone call may be in order to one or all of those three. There could be something not yet on the site, or it might be something that could be made to order.

 

[71ChargerRT]

I'd be okay with solid mounts too, like F, M & J cars. The suspension will smooth everything out. I will definitely use the Firm Feel sway bars too, hopefully the rear work properly.

 

[Dr.Jass]

If you can weld, you can make your own solid mounts at home. Talk to Diplomat Wagon about that. He did it for his Cordoba race car and the results were quite good.

Just don't bug him right now. He's on vacation this week. Here. Well, not here right at this moment; I think at the moment his wife is feeding a giraffe.

 

[71ChargerRT]

I can weld, I'll dig up the Doba post. I think there are 8 mounts, can't be that hard.

 

[thrashingcows]

To my knowledge there is no poly sub frame bushings, or even new rubber once that I can recall?

 

[Dr.Jass]

I can weld, I'll dig up the Doba post. I think there are 8 mounts, can't be that hard.

I forgot... you don't have a K-member so much as a subframe. :doh:

Still, I think the basic process Dippy used was to determine the thickness of the bushings separating the two parts (frame and K-member, or in your case subframe and body) and weld a chunk of pipe between the factory bushing washers. On the F/M/J and R-body, as well as '73-up B, there are eight bushings for four mounting points, four uppers and four lowers. The lower cushions simply get tossed, shorter grade 8 bolts are used, and the fabricated piece just goes in the "squeezed" area between K-member and the frame rail.

When it's done, you'd essentially have the same "solid" structure as a full unit-construction car with a solidly-mounted K-frame, like an A, earlier B, or E-body. I'm not familiar enough with the yachts to say whether this would actually work, but from what I've seen I can't see why it wouldn't.

 

[restoman]

I can weld, I'll dig up the Doba post. I think there are 8 mounts, can't be that hard.

Pun intended...?

 

[71ChargerRT]

Pun intended...?

Not really, but hey...:burnout:

 

[71ChargerRT]

... local auto supply should be able to make you a couple of spray bombs in your chosen paint code for around $15-$20 per can.

We don't have any of those around here... The only NAPA we had that was any good closed up a couple years ago, and they didn't mix up any paint. We have the big 4 accessories stores, Pep Boys, Autozone, O'Reilly's and Advanced Auto Parts, nothing that even resembles a parts store in the area.

 

[Stretch]

We don't have any of those around here...
We have the big 4 accessories stores, Pep Boys, Autozone, O'Reilly's and Advanced Auto Parts, nothing that even resembles a parts store in the area.

I'm sorry but it looks like you are going to have to move!

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

I'd be okay with solid mounts too, like F, M & J cars. The suspension will smooth everything out. I will definitely use the Firm Feel sway bars too, hopefully the rear work properly.

If you can weld, you can make your own solid mounts at home. Talk to Diplomat Wagon about that. He did it for his Cordoba race car and the results were quite good.

Just don't bug him right now. He's on vacation this week. Here. Well, not here right at this moment; I think at the moment his wife is feeding a giraffe.

Yup. We sure were!


I just used bushing stock. Already had a 5/8" hole in the middle.





Then you just have to find center of the hole and fill it in and re-drill out the center for just the bolt to go through.

 

[71ChargerRT]

I'm sorry but it looks like you are going to have to move!

Yeah, no that's not going to happen. There's a farm supply/big truck/heavy equipment parts place down by where I hunt, those guys are really knowledgeable, none of them look to be under a half century old. That used to seem old to me, not so much these days...

Thanks for the pics Dipster! I'll have to look at the mounts on the stub frame, I'm not sure if they're going to work for me.

 

[71ChargerRT]

Hey all, I have the correct water pump pulley, the number escapes me right now. I believe the crank pulley, in fact I know the crank pulley is wrong. The water pump pulley hits the outer "V" section, the inner "V" doesn't line up with anything and there is nothing to line up with the power steering pump. No, I will not drive the car regularly without PS. Can anyone ID the crank pulley? It's Mopar, I just don't have any idea what year.

 

[71ChargerRT]

I didn't realize how bad those pics sucked, I'll get some better ones later.