And then there were 2...

That was only about 3-1/2 hours, but dammit I needed to get something accomplished. Hopefully I can get the trans stabbed in this week and move back from there.

Doc, I need to learn small block. I think that's the way to go with the other car, radical, big inch, twin turbo small block. Going to save my monies for an aftermarket block, I just need to know which one. Lotsa power, lotsa boost, maybe other stuffs.
 
71ChargerRT said:
For now manifolds, probably C body, will suffice. :2thumbs:
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C-barge log manifolds almost fit perfect. Passenger side is a nice fit. Drivers side needs to have the dump tube lengthened, angled and slightly flattened. You will notice very little room between the starter & steering shaft. A mini starter helps.
 
68R/T said:
C-barge log manifolds almost fit perfect. Passenger side is a nice fit. Drivers side needs to have the dump tube lengthened, angled and slightly flattened. You will notice very little room between the starter & steering shaft. A mini starter helps.
Click to expand...
An A-body is much, much tighter in that area than an F-body. B/E-body headers fit on an F-car with a steering-box ding and the steering column's rag joint removed. That's not at all the case with the A-body.

The F/M/J 440 swap is much easier overall, since those cars are closer to the B-bodies in most dimensions than they are to an A-body--particularly in the engine room.
 
I read something that said B body full length headers fit with a few dings, someone else said they need to be mangled to get any clearance, that's how I see it.
 
There's always the option of buying a set of swap-meet or inexpensive new headers, then cutting and reworking as needed. Look at as many pictures of the TTi headers as you can find and kind of eyeball what they did. You can get them ceramic-coated for a couple hundred bucks after you make them fit. I'm not saying that's necessarily the route I'd take since fabbing headers is a pain, but it's a less-expensive option I'd definitely strongly consider. $900 is obscene. Even having very-few financial obligations and a good-paying job, I'd balk at that number. TTi also makes shorties that fit an RB A-body for a couple hundred less, but if you're truly going for all-out power those aren't the answer. Even a homegrown set with ~36" tubes would outperform them. Shorty headers create all sorts of nasty reversion pulses and don't scavenge worth a damn, equal-length or not. Not sure what your plans are for a transmission (I don't remember) but if you're going manual you'll need TTi's countershaft.

Just tossing out ideas.

You realize if you do a big-inch turbocharged small-block for the other car (correctly) it's likely gonna outrun the big-block, right? Last I'd heard, dizuster over on the turbo forums was in the mid-9s with no intercooling with what's basically a stock 360 Magnum longblock running E85 with an eßay Chinese S480 copy... carbureted. :dance: Of course, unless you're buying it from a controlled source, i.e. by the sealed drum, E85 can be a slippery slope. The actual ethanol content varies by season and region, which can play hell with your timing and A/F ratios.
 
I have no doubt that the other car will be much faster than the one with the big block, I'm not sure that this one will keep this motor or get a 400 or something else entirely. C body manifolds will be fine for now. And it's going to be an automatic trans, with whatever used floor shifter I can find.

Fast is my intention for the other car, really fast! That's why I leaned toward the small block and turbos, and I do have that 5.9 Mag in my garage, I'm sure the heads are cracked like every other. Next Carlisle I intend on purchasing the full floor pan and running over to S-W and picking up a 14 point cage. I've also kicked around back-halving that car.
 
I've even glanced at the crazy power numbers they're getting out of the Next Gen "Hemis". My cousin has cracked 11's in a 4X4 Quad Cab Ram with a cam, tuner, full length headers and exhaust with a whiff of nitrous. Dynoed 465 horsepower.
 
if you wanted a stocker look on the rear arches...i knew someone who..with a dart...used the front archs on the rear...when done it looked 100% factory...if you want the fish ones i sent ya a pm
 
69 I'm going to hold off on the rear arches for now, but thanks.

I hung the '68 fender on the right front, but that fender is slightly damaged around the headlight opening. I'll work it though, I already drilled the holes to fit the '69 "Valiant 100" badge and the turn signal indicator.
 
I'll get pics of the fender on the car when I get the suspension back in place, but here's the antenna hole, someone screwed it up royally.



Doesn't look quite as bad in the pic.
 
ooooo its one of them new fangled fly by wire setups is it?

as much as those systems scare the shit out of me...in a case like this i wonder how one could retrofit SAFELY
 
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