And then there were 2...

He said $125, works for me, I'll pick it up tomorrow.

I found a set of vintage small block Cal Customs too, he's looking for a buck and a half on those, so they are not going to happen. But it would be pretty sweet to have a bunch of vintage speed parts in that ratty old Valiant.

Hmmmmm, would that solid lifter cam work in this roller motor Doc?
 
$125 isn't bad. You'll make money on it someday. :D

Yes, the cam will work in a roller block... obviously not with the roller lifters, though.
 
offer him 100$ for the cal's and see...its been a good while since ive seen a truely "clean" set....course now im on a hunt for pre "squarepad" cal bigblocks and paying hell finding reasonable

doc something tells me you got em for about what id offer the guy lol..its a shame shipping would KILL
 
My old, non-pad Cal's came to me in a parts lot, paid $200-250 for them, and got adjustable big block rockers, a set of J heads and some other stuff, covers are all I have left.

Picked up my intake, and it's a pretty clean piece.

I got another 360, this one was coming in to scrap, dude was pissed because they only offered him $20 for it. I offered $50 as he was leaving and we rolled on to my truck. Might still go back for the other one. This one has, I think, a TBI intake on it, and a transmission I don't recognize.

Post pics later.
 
since i KNOW my ramp truck is going 440 i want some "period" stuf and besides i swear by non squarepad cals..im actualy a fan of the pcv era ones for the tiny lil logo that said ive allready got ALL my other goodies save for the covers and a BOAT aluminum pan...and thats what it will stay.......unless some big OLD nasty v8 diesel falls into my lap
 
hell no..not even a v6...i want BIG v8's only..now..thats not to say i wouldnt mod out for a detroit 10v71/92 or 12v71/92.....i really just want something "period" in it.....which is why i considered the 354hemi ive got..just say its a 392 and it wouldnt be out of place at all
 
They work great as long as you don't plan on going around any corners. :doh:
 
In actual real life, they're fine if you have strong axles. I've driven them on the street many times, including in the rain, and it's no big deal. Just don't drive like an asshole when turning corners and it'll be fine.
 
If you use tall, wide tires that scrub more easily in turns, you might approach 2,000 miles on it before every tooth on the ring and pinion are cracked all the way through and showing hideous chipping. I bought a welded-up 489 case with Richmond 4.30s from a guy in FL with a "pro street" '71 Charger with tubs, huge Mickey Thompson cat-mashers, Strange axles, the whole works. He told me they had less than 1,500 miles on 'em. When they landed here, that was the condition of the gears. I sent him close-ups of the gear teeth, and he refunded all my money including the not-inconsiderable shipping cost: "Whoa... I guess I didn't look at 'em that closely." I asked if he wanted the center section back, and he told me to throw it out... so I gave it to a friend that killed it in a demo car.
 
At my old shop, we got an '86 Bronco in trade for fixing a Fiat X-1/9. That truck soon became the unofficial mudboggin' truck of Sportscar Workshops. My buddy and I got a set of 40" Denmans in trade for something I can't remember, and instead of lifting the Bronco, we just removed the bumpers, and radiused the fenders with a sawzall.. Like ya do.. it had an open rear, which was embarrasing the first time we got stuck in the mud pit ten feet from the start line. Smart guys that we were, we decided to lock up the rear. We couldn't afford a spool, so we cracked open the diff, heated it with the oxy-acetylene torch, and welded up the gears.. After this modification, we trailered it to the mud pits (smart guys that we were). Before this we were driving there on '33s, swapping tires for mudding, and swapping out to go home. Punchline is, we kept the '40s on it permanently after we welded the diff. Tom, (my friend, and boss at the time) got a phone call from the police at 4:00 AM on a tuesday letting him know that they recovered his (unbeknownst to him) stolen Bronco. Sixty miles away. It had no working headlights or brake lights, it had a welded rear, at least one foot wide 40" Denmans, no top, and the back was full of beer cans before it was stolen.. The thief hadn't even been pulled over, he'd run out of gas. So, yes.. you can drive a spool on the street.

Also, I laughed out loud at "cat mashers". I've always called the varmints "wheel chocks" myself.
 
Yeah, I thought taller, softer tires might make it a little easier on the gears, but i figured it was going to tear them up eventually.
 
Turning with a spool doesn't stress the ring and pinion gears that much, it stresses the axles and carrier assembly. Hard launches are probably what chipped the teeth in that guy's car. No telling how many street miles I put on my "lowly" 8.8 with a spool, mostly on slicks. The 3.55's looked GREAT when I took them out to put a set of 4.10's in for harder launches. That car went 9.80's at 137 on the 3.55's, pass after pass.
 
71ChargerRT said:
Yeah, I thought taller, softer tires might make it a little easier on the gears, but i figured it was going to tear them up eventually.
Click to expand...
The less sticky they are, the better. The easier it is to rotate the tire perpendicular to the contact patch, the less damage you'll do since it's easier for it to slip rather than stress the axle shafts and gears. A stick (which is what that Charger had) is way harder on the gears than a pansymatic, since the engine's trying to force one speed through the pinion, while both rear tires each demand a different speed of the ring gear which it's trying to average. A dork converter creates a cushion of disappointment between the engine and driveshaft.

I don't think that Charger ever had a hard launch in its life. Like most "pro street" cars, it was a total poseur with a stockish pump-gas dual-quad 440. The guy pulled the 4.30s to go to a 3.23 Sure Grip so it would be more, uh, "fun" (?) on cruise nights. 3.23s seemed extremely high to me, in light of 29" rear tire height.
 
On these 308 heads those small holes below the exhaust ports, do the need to be plugged? I'm going to try to use 5.2/5.9 Magnum exhaust manifolds, for now.
 
71ChargerRT said:
Need a 4.10 SG.
Click to expand...
What a coincidence... :D

If you have air-injection ports due south of the exhaust ports, yes, they need to be plugged. Typical course of action here is to tap (thread) them and install a set screw or chunk of threaded rod long enough to fill the hole all the way into the exhaust port. Use high-strength threadlocker on clean threads; they're never coming out anyhow. Once the threadlocker has cured, grind to remove any protruding fastener as well as the cast-in hump in the port floor (if present). Obviously, at the exhaust flange whatever you threaded in there needs to be flush with (or slightly below) the level of the flange.

You don't have to fill the entire hole all the way to the port floor if you don't feel inclined, but the remaining hole in the bottom of the port causes a little bit of port turbulence. Probably not enough to sweat it, but the devil is in the details.
 
I ripped the heads and oil pan off, it looks like a couple burnt valves up top. Inexpensive fixes?

Down low, windage tray already in place, with a new hv oil pump on the way along with a double roller TC. Seriously considering swapping in my MP solid lifter cam.

I think I sold my LD340, I believe I want to use single plane intake on this one.
 
I would think a couple of new valves and a proper valve job are in order. I guess it depends on how damaged the valves and seats are.

If you're shopping single-planes and can be picky, I'd look for a Victor, Strip Dominator or M1 (in no particular order). Sadly (?), all the non-EFI single-planes I have are for W2 heads. :D
 
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