Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

I remember something about my Duster idler arm, but don't remember exactly what it was. Seems like it had to do with an extra washer but I don't remember what the result was. I agree with @68R/T that tighter is probably better.

Sounds like you need to just to do the best you can with those bump stops.

Have you got FSM/parts/body books? The exploded illustrations in those can be a real time saver. Mymopar.com has several years/models for download.
 
I have an old chiltons manual (?) & a couple of ebody books I picked up last time, I'll check out the on line one & see what it looks like, any help in the rebuild will be a PLUS!
 
Looking at the week or so's weather, I think I'm going to put the car back up in the air & pray we don't have any major snow storms.
This way I can start putting at least a few pieces back on?
 
Year one had another 30% sale, so I ordered a few more parts, new shocks & the rubbers for the front sway bar clamps.
little by little I'm stocking up
 
I wish I would've stocked up. I can't count the number of times I told myself it would be a good idea to go ahead and buy the soft interior for my road runner. And yet I still haven't done it. (y)
 
Yea I've got some stuff I won't use till near the end, but these I hope will go on this spring, going for the gas tank first, then the K frame, while I have it upside down, then start piecing the front end/steering/suspension/brakes on, the axles are at my mechanics for new bearings, when they get back I can start rebuilding the rear suspension.
 
OK this is probably the place to ask about the motor.
So I have a #'s block, it had a light knock on start up that would fade as it warmed up.
The price from the guy I wanted to use (that I was pretty sure I could trust) went from 4K to around 7 K.
If it was a 440 or hemi I'm sure it would be worth it, but will a lowly 360 will add more than that to the sale price when the time comes?
Options I see now
1 clean up & throw it back in with some restore added & pray
2 buy an engine for around 3500 & say #'s motor in the garage goes with it.
3 attempt a rebuild myself, what special tools would I need & would that cost swallow up any savings?
4 try to find a local place to just do the short block & pray I don't get a royal screwing?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
OK this is probably the place to ask about the motor.
So I have a #'s block, it had a light knock on start up that would fade as it warmed up.
The price from the guy I wanted to use (that I was pretty sure I could trust) went from 4K to around 7 K.
If it was a 440 or hemi I'm sure it would be worth it, but will a lowly 360 will add more than that to the sale price when the time comes?
Options I see now
1 clean up & throw it back in with some restore added & pray
2 buy an engine for around 3500 & say #'s motor in the garage goes with it.
3 attempt a rebuild myself, what special tools would I need & would that cost swallow up any savings?
4 try to find a local place to just do the short block & pray I don't get a royal screwing?
Click to expand...
Why is the price so high? I'm presuming that's a hands off deal for you. It sounds like his labor rates are kind of high or something.

One thing I can say from recent experience - good luck finding an engine for $3500 that you can trust. Trust is the hard part.

FABO has a set of pages to show what's involved up to the point of installing the crank/pistons.
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 2: Cam Bearing Install
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 3: Install Water Jacket and Oil Galley Plugs
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 4: Pre Flight Inspection After Machine Shop Before Assembly

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 5: Crankshaft Install​

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 6: Installing Rings on Pistons
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block

I can't say for sure how much I expect to have in my motor yet, because the machine shop hasn't told me what it needs yet. If I need a crank/rods then ...

You're worried about putting that much money in a motor that's going into a 'Cuda, now imagine putting that in a Duster that looks like mine does LOL. You're going to want a good motor in it or you'll just end up working on it anyway.
 
Did a run through of the first one, I might be able to do that. I even have a pressure washer!
I guess another problem I have is I have no Idea what was done to it before.
I do know they put in adjustable rockers & didn't change the lifters, I have a set of regular rockers to put on.
 
Managed to get the car back up in the air & turned it upside down, was a tad higher in the front then I expected, so I decided to try the K frame first looking at the rotis connection I thought it might be in the way.
so I wiggled myself & the K frame into the engine bay & somehow got it up there.

Just cleared it! 20230320_145448.jpg
Broke my heart I had to pound the upper control arms in, even with some tape I still messed up my nice new paint!
Couple parts on I hope I'm not messing the balance up too much I may have to hire a gorilla to get it rolled back over?20230320_155946.jpg
 
Everything is loose will have to start looking at the manual for all the torque specs.
now I'm not sure how the cam washers on the UCA's go, I found one photo (not too clear) & it looks like there facing down.
If so I got one right (the car is upside down) Nor even sure if it matters? 20230320_153427.jpg
On the other side the ones on the bolt side are opposite the nut side,
Should they all be the same?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
3 attempt a rebuild myself, what special tools would I need & would that cost swallow up any savings?
Click to expand...
Would be my choice. We all have that "first time". Look at how much new stuff you've learned just by being willing to "give it a shot". For most important tools needed, torque wrench, cylinder hone, ring compressor and a decent dial calipers.

An important thing I've learned is, after setting your cam timing, turn the crank one full turn, now it's ready for the distributor at #1 position.

Watch you tube videos, buy manuals, ask questions of anyone experienced at rebuilds. Many engines only need a "freshening" rather than a full on rebuild. Keep every part in order of where it came from and put it back in that location.

After watching your accomplishments with this car and your first, I'll say, "You got this Rusty, you can do it". 😉
 
I'd rather a refresh, I think what I need is someone who knows to take a gander in there & tell me what it needs.
All I want out of it is a reliable driver I can tool around town with, a stock engine (like my orig 'Cuda back in 74) had more power than I'll ever use at this age!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Did a run through of the first one, I might be able to do that. I even have a pressure washer!
I guess another problem I have is I have no Idea what was done to it before.
I do know they put in adjustable rockers & didn't change the lifters, I have a set of regular rockers to put on.
Click to expand...
My machinist is hot tanking or sonic cleaning the block and replacing the cam bearings and plugs while he's got it.

My roadrunner has a hydraulic cam and adjustable rockers in it. I had plans to switch to a solid cam and never did.
RUSTY Cuda said:
I'd rather a refresh, I think what I need is someone who knows to take a gander in there & tell me what it needs.
All I want out of it is a reliable driver I can tool around town with, a stock engine (like my orig 'Cuda back in 74) had more power than I'll ever use at this age!
Click to expand...
That's what I'm expecting for my block - measure it out and give me prices to get it in rebuildable shape. From my reading any 360 with better compression is going to surprise you. For my use it doesn't need a stroker kit - unless the crank is unusable and doesn't seem to be.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Everything is loose will have to start looking at the manual for all the torque specs.
now I'm not sure how the cam washers on the UCA's go, I found one photo (not too clear) & it looks like there facing down.
If so I got one right (the car is upside down) Nor even sure if it matters? View attachment 25092
On the other side the ones on the bolt side are opposite the nut side,
Should they all be the same?
Click to expand...
It doesn't matter how they were set before, they will be different now that you've got new parts.

I start with it set for max caster - the front of the UCA all the way out, and the back all the way in, then adjust it from there. You've gotta set the toe too but that's way down the road. Just set the tie rods up so there's plenty of thread on each and worry about it when the time is right.
 
I didn't even know they moved in & out, I just aligned them so I could get the bolts in!

On to the gas tank, set out some basic tools...............& coffee of course! 20230321_133003.jpg
& laid out the parts.......................20230321_132941.jpg
Set in the sending unit & the lock ring looks a little off, it is set into 2 slots pretty sure the sender is right, Also may need to pound it around further I think those stops go under the bulge in the ring on the tank?20230321_133936.jpg
I seem to remember some kind of foam under the gas tank straps, so I put some "gummy" tape on under them. 20230321_140541.jpg

So after installing the fill tube & gasket section wrong 2 different times I finally got it right but scratched up a lot of my nice new paint! 20230321_155128.jpg
Also finally got the trunk lock rod fixed & the cover on that, scratches on my tube & the bracket it goes through, uggh! 20230321_155054.jpg
After seeing this gap in the strap I tightened down quite a bit more, still a tiny gap, gotta find out if it should be flush? 20230321_155152.jpg
 
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