Project Fur-Kota!

Mocked up the drivers side just to see.
 

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Checking in, not much progress. I got out into the garage the other day and did some straightening, I'm falling all over lawnmowers and snowblowers. The snowblowers have been out of the garage getting a tuneup.

I'm in "International Payment/Shipping hell" right now for a gas tank solution. I sent the money order on the 23rd of Dec. it is still on one side or the other of the border. You'll know more when I know more.:hmmm:
 
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It takes a long time for those to clear the bank. Throw two holidays in the mix, and I'm not surprised at all. Every bank was closed the 26th and 2nd, and the US Postal Service was off the 24th and 31st as well as were some banks.

What did you go with for a fuel tank?
 
yeah way tooo much chaos this time of the year...expect it to be atleast another 2 weeks lol...there is a reason i basicaly shut everything down from a few days before xmas till after the first...not only is everyone driving like idiots not thinking..more drunks out on the road to boot and you cant trust that anything will be open
 
What did you go with for a fuel tank?

It's a stainless tank from a guy who is doing up his 66 Fury, It had a few too many imperfections for his build so the tank builder sent him a new tank to proper spec. and told him to keep the old one for the trouble. The tank is a little taller than stock, baffled and setup for in-tank pump there will be some tweaking necessary in the filler area but for the price of admission I can't lose. (I hope! lol)

Installed pic is the new tank. I don't get a pump or any of that stuff.
Fury Tank.jpg
Fury Tank1.jpg
 
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where the hell did he get it from?.......i need a custom tank for the lloyd and have considered stainless for my 58 ford.....tho...im also considering making the lloyd one myself from aluminum
 
where the hell did he get it from?.......i need a custom tank for the lloyd and have considered stainless for my 58 ford.....tho...im also considering making the lloyd one myself from aluminum

I'll send you a PM, he's not to hot on the tank maker for the failed first attempt but I havn't directly dealt with them so I don't want to start anything.
 
Well I see it's been even longer than I thought since I updated this thread.

A. I got the tank it looks good, haven't test fit it yet.
B. Finished welding up the DS trunk extensions, too much weld and grinding but it is done. Now I just need sealer to top it off and it'll be grand.
C. I have been trying to get back out into the Garage in anticipation of my week of vacation in May. I'm still working mandatory overtime 6 nights a week. I'm only sleeping 5 hours a day so I might as well spend some of my waking hours in the Garage. got some straightening done still working over top of parts off the car.
 
I've been working on the aluminum pedal hanger box from the Dakota it has been pared down a great deal since it left the truck cab but it is now only suspending the pedals as the column is held in with a welded in support under the dash. It looks like the whole thing is going to fit nicely with a little work on the firewal and a shift of the MC and pedal stuff about 1.5 inches toward the drivers side.
 
Engine setback and driveshaft measuring.

After I get the pedals where I want 'em I'm looking at moving the engine towards the back of the car. Aside from the obvious performance benefit, there are lots of other good reasons to attempt it.

The engine is sitting about 7 inches away from the firewall now and 5 inches rearward would still give me enough room to change the Crank position sensor at the back of the block. Moving the engine back will gain me some shifter clearance under the dash, move the TB to a slightly deeper area under the hood which looks like it will help with my airhat/filter fitment. The trans crosmember should be a fairly straightforward cut and move operation. I'm feeling pretty confident about being able to get the trans tunnel cut and replaced, might not be pretty but it'll be under the rug and it's not over any cross bracing so no extra work there.

The biggest interference problem looks to be the Dakota engine mounts, if pushed further forward on the block they will interfere with the LA style mounting bosses which could be ground or I could look at going to the LA style mount and cutting off the Dakota stuff, still have to do some thinking there.

It looks like the the Dak drive shaft might fit but I need to figure out where to set the thing to measure it. Can anyone tell me a rule of thumb for how far out of the tailshaft the yoke should be sitting to check my measurement to the diff?

Thanks for any and all input.
 
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I believe the rule of thumb is about 1" out of the bottomed position. However, the driveshaft should be nearly the last thing you do, since you need all the vehicle weight sitting all four of the wheels when you make that measurement. Measure center-to-center on the U-joint caps on both yokes.
 
belated thanks Jass,

I got the firewall cut up and the pedals mocked in. The firewall piece should be do able but I started looking at the clearance between the wheel and MC and thought I'd take the spring out of the front suspension to check the full travel of the front tire. Long story short, I can't get the nut off the top of the shock! any ideas on how to grip the shaft of the shock so it doesn't spin with the nut. The nut is now up over the flat on the top of the shock and still too stiff to turn.
 
Unless you plan to re-use that shock, put a deep-well socket of the correct size with an extension over the nut, as far down as you can. Push it back and forth until the shock stud breaks. It's quick and effective.
 
I don't even attempt to take the nuts off stud-mount shocks. I've done this every time and just replaced them. It works like a charm.
 
Yep. Me too. If there is no room for a socket and extension, split the nut with a cut off wheel, or a nut spliter if you have one. Shocks are cheep. Replace them.
 
(looks on internet for parts) Wow shocks are cheap! well that takes care of that. Thanks guys.
 
More pics of progress.

Firewall holes, mine and the bulkhead connector, inside shot shows how close the bottom of the new hole comes to the base plate of the column.

Furkota 001.JPG
Furkota 002.JPG
 
Here's where the MC and modified dakota support plate end up under the hood. I'm probably going to move the ABS stuf when I replumb the brakes. also the hood torsionbars are making contact with the back of the booster when everything gets tightened down. Oval hole in the support plate is for the clutch MC.
Furkota 009.JPG
Furkota 010.JPG
Here are the pedals inside, they are over to the left about an inch more than I would like but I think they will work fairly well.
Furkota 011.JPG
 
Here are some shots of the front tire at full compression. sorry the pic's came out so dark it's a little hard to see the bottom of the tire. The tires are 235 75 15 so 29" diameter. for the 18 rim 255 55 18 would be close to the same size I was thinking of going down to 255 45 18 which would be 27" I'm not sure how well that'd fill the wheel openings.
Furkota 006.JPG
Furkota 005.JPG
inside the fender, bottom pic is full left turn,
Furkota 007.JPG
Furkota 008.JPG
that's all for now.
 

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