Let's tear down!!!

while i used to hate 16+ wheels.....ive come to the point of..if you have the wheel well..and your not running a rubberband to get to that wheel size and your not LIFTING the car..i say go for it
 
It's a 26" tire, so I'll have about 4 - 4 1/2 of sidewall depending on which size wheel I use. Probably going to end up lowering it an inch or so.
 
If you look at the pictures of the Black Bitch, Futura GLS tires were what I had on the back of it. Well, I originally had 'em on all four, but I put a pair of them on the rear of the 'Bee so I could roll it around. They vanished with the car, though, along with the matching alloy wheels on which they were mounted.
 
The Futuras have a high treadwear rating and yes, they hang in there for a long time. They're actually not a half-bad street/track tire for a daily-driver. Drive around the water, do a short "dry hop" (no burnout) and just leave the line on green.

As far as those hoods go, they're both '71 Super Bee hoods so that's going to drive the price up. The '72-'74 versions should go for less. Personally, I prefer the no-cowl-vent '74 version, but one takes what one can get.
 
Yeah I kind of like the plain bulge hoods on the 72-74 cars, over the insert ones. I absolutely LOVE the ramcharger hoods though!!
 
I prefer the plain over the insert myself. Yes the Ramcharger would be great, priced way out of range though. Chose those 2 because they were the only ones listed when I checked, I know they are 'Bee hoods but the inserts are interchangeable, not that I need to tell you Doc. :D

I am probably going with a fiberglass bulge hood, unless I come across a decent steel one or AMD steps up.
 
Yeah, the 'Bee inserts interchange with the R/T insert, but that insert alone would probably cost you the price of one of those hoods all over again. I'd look for a smooth-bulge hood instead. The only difference between the '72/'73/'74 hoods is the cowl vents themselves. Everything else about them is identical. For the record, the '73 is my least favorite at the vents, but I like the paint treatment on the bulge better on the '73-'74 cars better than '71-'72.

A friend of mine, many years ago, pointed out a very-valid point about fresh-air hoods: You're essentially stuck with stock induction. Sure, you can put a Thunder Series AVS where the original Carter AVS sat, or replace your factory Holley with a higher-CFM version, but when it comes to intake manifolds you start to get a little sketchy as to height and whether it will fit. The center of the hood is actually a terrible spot for a scoop unless it's quite tall. It's a low-pressure area, and while providing cool air to the engine, very-few factory scoops on any make are actually effective in any kind of "ram" effect. The air is getting in there purely through vacuum.

Realistically, it's not worth having a Ramcharger hood other than for showing off the trap door or unless it's a restoration-style build. There's no easy way to make that trap door work without literally every underhood piece, and that takes up a bunch of space.
 
Rallye-R/T-500 tail lights installed, as well as my "new" '73/4 rear valance. Minor cosmetic and major cost differences between this one and the correct one, but unless you know, you don't notice.

Couple pics

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:dance:

Realistically, it wouldn't be too hard to weld metal into those slots, either, if they were really bothersome to a guy.
 
They don't bother me all that much, besides I can't see them from my seat :D You can't even see the pair of 3/8 holes in the center of it, amazing what black spray paint and shadows hide.

One bezel is gloss black and the other is satin. I like satin better, for now, eventually they'll be argent. :dance:



Once she's on the road and I'll concentrate on collecting new/better parts for the eventual restification.
 
Yes, the satin definitely looks a lot better.

The slots would actually bug me, just knowing they're not supposed to be there. I had a rust-free decklid for my Super Bee, but I was still looking for a different one because mine was a '73 decklid. I didn't mind it on the Bitch, but on the Bee it would've driven me insane... as would the jack slots in the '73 bumper that was on the car when I got it.
 
Exactly! I completely understand, but I don't have a one of one :D

I need a deck lid, both valances, left fender, and door. If the guy I want to do my car is available I probably won't need anything, he's that damn good! And he only does it on the side.

I need a lot of trim, and have other pieces restored, that's gonna beat the hell out of the budget. I need the rear trim behind the bumper, and both front pieces are cracked.
 
I assume the decklid is rusted underneath, along the back lip? That left fender doesn't seem that bad... patch panel? Fenders are getting freakin' pricey!
 
Actually along the left side on top, bottom is solid. Fender has a big dent in the dog leg, but the more serious damage is where the valance bolts up. The door has 2 pretty deep, almost gouges, dents about 10-12" long.
 
If the metal isn't rusty, I wouldn't change it. Find someone that can work metal damage and fix what you've got. Unfortunately, a real "metal man" is getting hard to find in these days of "replace and repaint everything". I know a few of them up here, which is one reason I haven't cut that '67 Barracuda hood yet. It's a difficult repair, but not as difficult as finding another one. Of course, I have nothing on which to install it, so no big deal if it sits.
 

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