A12 - time to get busy

I only had time to get the alternator about half apart - I think it's going to turn out to be junk. I could only turn the rotor about 1/8 of a turn. OTOH it was also full of trash that I shook out of it. I'll get it fully split apart tomorrow and will know more.

I found a 69 date stamp so chances are good it's the original part from the car. I don't know how to read the month on it. Doesn't really matter though, other than I'm trying to keep all the parts car parts that I can. Call me weird.
 
Too bad you couldn't hollow out the round back alt case and stuff the guts from a late model Nippon-Denso style alt inside it. :unsure:




...and you're weird. 🤣
 
The alternator is pretty much shot but I think it's rebuildable. The rotor won't even turn with the case split. I tried knocking it out (after releasing the bearing retainer) but no luck, and I couldn't find anything to rig it up in the press either. But that bearing is at least worn out, at worst locked up with damage to the rotor.

I kind of hesitate to go further with it out of worry that I will screw up the soldering or that I'll end up with $50-60 in a rebuild kit but the dumb thing still won't work. Maybe both!

I think before I make a decision I'll drive out to the parts store to see if they've actually got a single-field round back on the shelf or if they're all square backs with some kind of grounding adapter on the ground field. If they've got something I can deal with I may go ahead and fork over the $$ to get one while the getting is good.

$40 core - makes me consider giving the old one up as a trade in. Maybe I could get $50 for it to someone needing a date code, probably not. They made a million of them and they're all the same other than that tiny little date stamp.

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I've fixed many of those with all different maladies. It takes a special tool to remove the pulley and the outer bearing. It's in my garage. :giggle:
 
68R/T said:
I've fixed many of those with all different maladies. It takes a special tool to remove the pulley and the outer bearing. It's in my garage. :giggle:
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I've got the pulley puller and the case is already split. I'm waiting on the time to set up the press to remove the rotor, then the bearing comes off. I've seen that a small bearing puller is what you need to pull the bearing.
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It takes a while to get there but eventually he does
 
My pulley removal tool is deeper and the bearing removal part is to flip the 2 internal parts that grab the pulley & bearing. It's an incomplete video, he never shows removing any internal parts or how to test & remove diodes. To test diodes you need a powered test light. the test light will light in one direction only, not both. If it lights in both directions, It's shorted, if it doesn't light in either direction, it's open circuited.
 
I've just got a HF pulley tool but it's worked on several PS pumps so far, and it worked on this alternator. I don't remember exactly how it works but you can juggle the parts and use it as an installer too,

I was planning on doing what the video did - new bearings, new brushes, look for shorts, see if it charges. If yes, done. If not, then evaluate the diodes. Which is why I'm considering just buying a reman and forgetting about it. I won't need it for months, and worse comes to worst I've got a good square back I can ground the field on and use. Or I can just drive about a mile to the parts store.

If more is bad in it, the parts would end up costing more than a reman. Bearings and brushes alone was 60-70 by the time I paid shipping but I looked at rebuild shops not ebay. I just checked ebay and the bearings and brushes are $20 but this seller doesn't have a full kit with diodes for the single field part. Apparently from a quick look-round, nobody else does either.


TBH I'm more concerned about screwing up the soldering than I am anything else about it.
 
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