1967 dart
- Thread starter dodgedifferent2
- Start date
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
ok This has been my latest adventure.
Still plugging away on the sheet metal behind the rear wheels and the wheel tubs.
Decided i wanted to find a 10 inch wide rim and use the dog dish hubcaps.
So i found a 15 inch hoop from speedway motors.
I found and drilled out the spot welds out of the factory rim so i could weld the center into the 15 inch hoop.
The one rim had the welds on the backside so i simply turned out the welds and knocked the center out.
the speedway rim had an inner diameter of 12.625 and the factory rims center was 13.25. So i spun the diameter to the smaller size and placed it into the new hoop.
I have not set up the backspace on the rim yet, but i did mock the new rim up on the car to see how well she fit.
Now just to weld it all up and then i have a 15 inch rim and 10 inches wide so i can cram some 295/50/15 tires into the new mini tub.
Still plugging away on the sheet metal behind the rear wheels and the wheel tubs.
Decided i wanted to find a 10 inch wide rim and use the dog dish hubcaps.
So i found a 15 inch hoop from speedway motors.
I found and drilled out the spot welds out of the factory rim so i could weld the center into the 15 inch hoop.
The one rim had the welds on the backside so i simply turned out the welds and knocked the center out.
the speedway rim had an inner diameter of 12.625 and the factory rims center was 13.25. So i spun the diameter to the smaller size and placed it into the new hoop.
I have not set up the backspace on the rim yet, but i did mock the new rim up on the car to see how well she fit.
Now just to weld it all up and then i have a 15 inch rim and 10 inches wide so i can cram some 295/50/15 tires into the new mini tub.
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
OK, a couple of questions, the center rim is flanged over at the outer edge, (the area that you removed over a half inch from), after removing this metal, wouldn't this jepardize the strength of that flange?
Second, I'm curious of the method you used to align the two pieces and the tolerances of this alignment. :hmmm:
Otherwise, I think your skills and method are right on track. :2thumbs:
Wheels Vintigue has been using the same method to make custom wheels the same way for a number of years. ( For a much higher price)
Second, I'm curious of the method you used to align the two pieces and the tolerances of this alignment. :hmmm:
Otherwise, I think your skills and method are right on track. :2thumbs:
Wheels Vintigue has been using the same method to make custom wheels the same way for a number of years. ( For a much higher price)
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
The half inch i removed is really not a big deal. The center is still heavy enough. The weld that i will add will be on the area where the flange was. The 90 degree bend was there so production could spot weld. A weld is a weld and it will be strong enough to hold the rim together. As for the one rim it was welded on the edge of the flange. If that was strong enough then a weld moved in more towards the meat of the rim will be just as strong.
To remove the metal on the flange the tolerance i was at was .0005 according to my indicator.
I am told that 0 to .045" of runout is acceptable. As most factory rims were within that tolerance. I am trying to figure which route i will go to get it dead nuts close to zero. I plan on making a jig to tack, weld and check the alignment with a magnetic base indicator on the rim.
To remove the metal on the flange the tolerance i was at was .0005 according to my indicator.
I am told that 0 to .045" of runout is acceptable. As most factory rims were within that tolerance. I am trying to figure which route i will go to get it dead nuts close to zero. I plan on making a jig to tack, weld and check the alignment with a magnetic base indicator on the rim.
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
uhh oh ... this followed me home this weekend. I had to give up drinking so i could get this SIX PACK 
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Those are the most-desirable carbs for the Six Pack, in my opinion... you've struck gold. If I'm correct, those are the long-discontinued R4791/R4792 Holley Super Stock race carbs, evidenced by the 3 accelerator pumps and the driver's-side fuel inlets on side-hung float bowls. The side-hung bowls were necessary for clearance, as the center-hung bowl will not clear on the rear carb with a metering block. Check the list number on the choke tower on the center and let me know if I'm right--I'm going from memory on the list numbers.
The linkage is pretty cobbled-lookin', but those screw-type stops are actually a part of the original Edelbrock linkage used, as would the rod on which they're installed likely be. That bent linkage bar was apparently the work of someone who didn't have all the parts, and didn't understand how a lever works, but it's somewhat close. With a good shot of the valve-cover-level view of the driver's side of the carbs, I could pretty-easily explain (or Photoshop) what the linkage should look like.
They're way more tuneable than the stock carbs since all three use metering blocks with jets rather than the metering plates used on the stock outboards. Of course, you now have three pump shots to tune as well, but that's no big deal. You're going to have to learn how to drive 'em, though. You can't just mash it from a dead stop unless you've got a hell of a lot of engine underneath 'em and a lot of stall in the converter. Think of it not as a Six Pack, but as a 1355CFM triple-pumper (the R4791 is rated 5CFM higher than the OEM center carb).
The last time I bid on a set of those on eBay, my $575 max bid wasn't even in the ballpark. I think they went in the neighborhood of $800, looking no better than yours and without any linkage or fuel lines. Keep in mind, I had absolutely no use for 'em at the time and had better places to put $600, but that's how highly I think of that setup. I don't know or really even care what you paid for the setup, with those carbs you've seriously scored.
Congratulations, my friend!
The linkage is pretty cobbled-lookin', but those screw-type stops are actually a part of the original Edelbrock linkage used, as would the rod on which they're installed likely be. That bent linkage bar was apparently the work of someone who didn't have all the parts, and didn't understand how a lever works, but it's somewhat close. With a good shot of the valve-cover-level view of the driver's side of the carbs, I could pretty-easily explain (or Photoshop) what the linkage should look like.
They're way more tuneable than the stock carbs since all three use metering blocks with jets rather than the metering plates used on the stock outboards. Of course, you now have three pump shots to tune as well, but that's no big deal. You're going to have to learn how to drive 'em, though. You can't just mash it from a dead stop unless you've got a hell of a lot of engine underneath 'em and a lot of stall in the converter. Think of it not as a Six Pack, but as a 1355CFM triple-pumper (the R4791 is rated 5CFM higher than the OEM center carb).
The last time I bid on a set of those on eBay, my $575 max bid wasn't even in the ballpark. I think they went in the neighborhood of $800, looking no better than yours and without any linkage or fuel lines. Keep in mind, I had absolutely no use for 'em at the time and had better places to put $600, but that's how highly I think of that setup. I don't know or really even care what you paid for the setup, with those carbs you've seriously scored.
Congratulations, my friend!
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
sure i will take the small pile
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
These carbs are 4783 and 4782. They are apparently the Old direct connection carbs.
These carbs will be a learning curve for me, but i am sure i can figure it all out somehow. *runs off to find literature*
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
So i did some humping on the dart. Have not had much time as of late to work on the dart, but finish the rear fenders and put the hump in.
now to work on the seat belt mounts. Finish the trunk floor and then wire brush the rust underneath to get ready for some por 15
now to work on the seat belt mounts. Finish the trunk floor and then wire brush the rust underneath to get ready for some por 15
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
finally put some nice zero rust to the underside of the car. Used a gallon of the zero rust and ran out so i had to order some more in. Should be in tomorrow for the inside of the car.
I have lots of sanding to do for exterior body work.
Started to put some suspension pieces on so i can put the dart back on its wheels.
I have lots of sanding to do for exterior body work.
Started to put some suspension pieces on so i can put the dart back on its wheels.
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
more zero rust sprayed in all the nooks and crannies and areas i didnt know existed [smilie=2:
This stuff takes a bit of time to get off your hands [smilie=2:
[IMG]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa307/dodgedifferent3/Dartie/IMG_0450.jpg[/IMG]
Installed the '74 k frame for the spool mounts... added some 11/16 tie rods from a big ol' C barge. :giggedy: Since they were bolt in items.
Only thing i wonder about is i put in some 1 inch torsion bars :hmmm: Second guessing them at the moment, but i will mainly do street driving. Thinking they may be too rigid for the small block .. but may use them if i go BB :hmmm:
Got hooked up with some AR engineering mounting brackets to mount 92-02 viper calipers on the front and using the 77 chargers rotors :giggedy: (as per mopar action's green brick)
This stuff takes a bit of time to get off your hands [smilie=2:
[IMG]http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa307/dodgedifferent3/Dartie/IMG_0450.jpg[/IMG]
Installed the '74 k frame for the spool mounts... added some 11/16 tie rods from a big ol' C barge. :giggedy: Since they were bolt in items.
Only thing i wonder about is i put in some 1 inch torsion bars :hmmm: Second guessing them at the moment, but i will mainly do street driving. Thinking they may be too rigid for the small block .. but may use them if i go BB :hmmm:
Got hooked up with some AR engineering mounting brackets to mount 92-02 viper calipers on the front and using the 77 chargers rotors :giggedy: (as per mopar action's green brick)