1967 dart

welded in sway bar tabs on the lower control arms tonight.
Found out one tie rod was not correct for what i was looking for. So now i have to wait till i get its replacement in. *mumbles about parts warehouses*

Likely move to the rear suspension tomorrow and likely put the rear axle in place. Depends on how things go. Should be almost ready to bolt the wheels on and take it off the rotisserie by the end of the week.
 
So i finally took the dart off the rotisserie. Then i sat down and stared at her for quiet some time. Felt like i made a huge leap on it tonight by putting her on her wheels.
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Then i sat down behind dartie and was amazed at the size of the rear wheels and how BIG they were when underneath :)

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Now put down that lube and quit looking at her undercarriage :)
 
Fishy likey muchly! :) Awesome work! It's come a LONG way since I remember it in 69's front yard! :D Can't wait too see this thing done! ;)
 
a VERY long way from the "dunecycle" i traded for it...and i picked up that dune cycle for 100$ or 150? hell its been so long i dont remember...i just remember me and fishy about killing ourselvs on the damn thing
 
Put some doors on Dartie this week. Put the tie rods all together.
Chedder (dog) was guarding the dart to be sure nobody tried to drive away?
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Was planning on sliding the 340 in to check the fit. See if the 6 pack intake will fit under the hood. Find drive shaft length, set rear pinion angle.
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Then return to body work.
 
ok i switched out k frame in 67 dart to the 73 k frame for the spool mounts.

I had a few spare 360 spool mounts kicking around so i used them. I put about a 3/8 spacer on back bolt on driver side to mount the spool. Now i went to slide the 340 into the dart and it looks like the k frame sits about 1 inch back to far. The valve covers seem to hang up on the firewall and i cannot get the engine to go between the mounts on the k frame.

Am i missing something? Everything seems to be clear and able to drop in, but the valve covers.

Oh i am also using a lakewood safety bellhousing, which seems damn tight.

Engine being installed with tranny attached.

Any ideas smart people?
 
Double check the motor mounts to the ears on the motor. They can be put on the wrong side. ????????????? Pics would maybe help.
 
yeah try em switched
sounds like the standard issue to me ..OR your on the wrong side of ears the block..... that will do it too
 
they were on right. Figured out it was my stupidity. The bolt i had threaded into the head for lifting purposes was contacting the firewall and i didnt notice it last night under the crappy lighting. I put a shorter 3/8 bolt into the head and it dropped in like it was made to fit.
 
so i have been sanding away on the roof. Making progress i think......

I installed the 6 pack carbs and cleaners on the engine and notice that the hood is going to need some opening. Debating on hoods now. I had a nice six pack scoop hood on its way but the seller seems to have backed out on me.

I still debate what to do.
 
Finally figured out what a dart with front fenders looks like. I completely forgot what they looked like.
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I have a pair of fiberglass fenders but i didnt like how they fit on and there would have been waaay too much fiddle farting around to get them to fit correctly. So i pulled out the third pair of steel fenders and put them on the dart. The one drivers side fender is going to need some metal work, but thats the joys of rebuilding a car i guess. Will take some pics of the fenders cancer later...



I finally have the roof flat ...
i have been working on the back fenders a bit.
 
when i got that fender i had hoped it would eventualy ennnd up on the dart.........nice to see it finaly made it there some 10+ years later LOL...hell the wrecker i pulled it from isnt even there any more
 
I have all the front fenders stripped. Doing some lower fender body surgery.

Started doing a bit of welding tonight... but got to damn hot in the shop at home.... So i gave up and went and hid in a cool location .... (do not have air conditioning at home)
 
technology has not liked me the last week. Every time i touch something the damn thing breaks. I have been keeping my hands behind my back and i am not will to attempt to take a leak.

Welder went kaput on me. So front fender sits half welded.

I went back to sanding, but i realized i have a major issue with the driver door area. I had to chip out all the old body fill back when i was stripping the dart. Now i went to align door up better and ran masking tape from front of door to rear of car following the one seam so i could keep the line straight.
Problem 1 starts About a 1 inch gap from tape line to area around door.
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#2 noticed that the inside of the dart is bent inward. I thought it was odd when i was putting the floor in but thought it was all in my head.
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Now i am unsure what steps to take to fix this collision area. Door seems straight

I went around to the other side and did the same thing with the masking tape and it touches the steel all the way from front to back. So the driver side should also follow that line.

When looking from the rear of the dart you can see the body goes inward near the door and the front of the door comes outwards. So there is definitely a problem here The tape confirmed this in my mind.

What do i do to correct this area? Any ideas? I am a bit lost on this one.
 
I've seen this happen before. Whoever repaired the quarter neglected to align the quarter with the door seal installed. :doh:

The simplest fix, (not really that simple) is to undo any welds holding the front half of the quarter and pull it out to achieve correct alignment and re-weld. You may have to add some filler strips if there are any gaps.

Don't forget to install the door seal to check alignment. :naughty:
 
Your only other option would be to un-tweak the unibody and that's still no garantee that the quarter skin will align after tweaking. :dgt:
 
If it's just the side of the quarter that's giving you problems, 68's idea will work fine. In fact, that's what I would do if it were mine.
If the issues extend all the way up to the side glass area, some uni-body pulling will be required. Check to make sure the side glass will align before doing anything else.
 

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