tiny...aka 1958 lloyd

It looks like it's really coming together!

Man, I wish I had the time and motivation to make that kind of progress. I've been wanting to work on the LeBaron a lot lately, but since the puppy was spayed she's been enormously clingy. I've gotten some work done, but not as much as I'd like because I feel guilty leaving her home all day, then once I'm here abandoning her for the garage. I can't take her out there with me, because all I'm doing involves either welding or spraying paint. :doh: I got a little done this morning, and am headed back out there now... hopefully I'll be able to lay some color on the car, albeit in a place where no one will ever see it. I just want to get the spray-gun practice.
 
gun practice is best done on a spare hood or something with curves and edges..that way you can figure out where you need to fix your mistakes..and its not the final product

yesterday i picked up a hood latch setup from a wrecked milano..yeah yeah the lloyd is a milano underneeth..but that latch is getting used on the rear door so i needed another one...looks like tommarow tho me and fishy will be grabbing a trans for the minivan and the transaxle out of that same milano..the local wrecker is running 1/2price weekend like they doo every memorial day weekend...one cant pass that up...i mean 65$ for a spare 800$ transaxle? and 65$ for a replacement turbo 5spd..
im going to try and get the hood latching today..i had to butcher the grill down more to clear the new hood work but its nothing anyone would notice....i think i re-designed the front windshield slider setup..initialy the windshield was to roll down and for install and removeal come out of the firewall..problem is that it cant come down far enuf to come out..since the roof still unbolts i think it will be a shot of slit the upper opening and have the windshield come out the top after a roof removeal...tho i must admit im starting to second think the power windshield
 
The gun practice on the inner fenderwell is on the wheel side... it's going to be covered by undercoating anyhow! :D That's why I'm using that area, on both sides of the car. I've already shot the paint I'm using, and it was a metallic, but those were wheels and it's hard to tiger-stripe and mottle a small area. I want to see how the paint's going to lay on a larger surface, and if I screw it up, no biggie--it'll never be seen, and I have the other side for more practice.

I'm thinking that whether I blow it or not, having some of the final color on the car will inspire me to keep at it a little more than I have. There's tons of work to do, though nothing on the scale of what you're accomplishing here. Good stuff.
 
well ive been hitting the car with a vengance and as useual...making things up as i go along..but hey..it works right?..lol

im tired from welding and grinding..ill let the work speak for itself..the hood latch is actualy a trunk unit from a milano..the hood "springs" that are going in the rear corners for assist are a-body units..and the springs will be sandwiched into a custom made washer/bolt assembly for FULL adjustability

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well ill get pic's up later..me and fishy are staying busy as hell on a tight schedual.....but...i won an award for worstpaint/best visionary project....duh i think i was a shoe in for that one...or mark is trying to get more ppl to bring out there "projects" and not just the finished stuff

RESTO!!!!!..me and fish were moving stuff and you know ive been fighting with dahs designs and such..whats your take on a 58 ford dash..sans the guage cluster...ive got a spare..i looked it over and i could actualy cut the cluster section out so that its one uniform shape from end to end fitting in the lloyd....its an idea anyway...
 
Hey, 69.5... in our last company-store online meeting, the head of our paint company announced a new product from Evercoat called Super Build 4:1. It's a super-high-build, direct-to-metal polyurethane sanding primer with a simple 4:1 mix ratio. I consulted our Canadian paint guru restoman about it via PM, and after he checked out the data sheet he was pretty impressed by it. No need to use a self-etch first, incredible build per coat, and he assures me that being polyurethane-based, shrinkage won't be an issue. Check out the dry-film thickness! It's 3-4 times what I've had gotten with the primer I'd intended to use, and I would have had to put down a self-etching primer first. Time and money saved? Hell yeah! As a bonus, the Super Build 4:1 is pretty inexpensive. I can't remember our intro price on it, but I want to say it's around $67 for a gallon of primer and $17 for the catalyst.

I tell you this because when you're all done fabbing you're gonna have a ton of finish work ahead of you. I think this stuff will save you a lot of time getting Tiny smooth as glass once the body work's done.
 
hmmmm ill keep it in mind..if...i run out of primers lol...back when i started out i picked up a solidifyed (been on the shelf to long) etching primer 1 gal for free and with a lil work saved it..and ive put it out in the weather just to make sure the stuff works proper ...also the "gamer bus" that i built left me with a lil over a gal of high build primer and a TON of filler supplys so in that department for this project im set..actualy the mack truck silver bas for the car was going to be stripes and logo work on the bus as well..it never got opened and has been stored in the house and shaken every so often

however that poly etch sounds PERFECT for the 58 ford and i like that price..ALOT
 
I also got a gallon of etching primer for free, but I'm going to buy this stuff Monday for the engine bay in the LeBaron. When I originally stripped it, I left some nasty sand scratches behind. I didn't really care the first time; now I do. This will leave me a smooth surface after sanding and I can skip the self-etch step. I really think that with the amount of grinding you'll have to do on the Lloyd, this would be a real time-saver. I'd probably say you should save the self-etch for the Ford unless its body is even more modified than Tiny's.
 
actualy the ford smooth and stock save for a few spots ill have to patch up in the rockers......now ya got me re-thinking it LOL
 
Dr.Jass said:
Hey, 69.5... in our last company-store online meeting, the head of our paint company announced a new product from Evercoat called Super Build 4:1. It's a super-high-build, direct-to-metal polyester sanding primer with a simple 4:1 mix ratio. I consulted our Canadian paint guru restoman about it via PM, and after he checked out the data sheet he was pretty impressed by it. No need to use a self-etch first, incredible build per coat, and he assures me that being polyester-based, shrinkage won't be an issue. Check out the dry-film thickness! It's 3-4 times what I've had gotten with the primer I'd intended to use, and I would have had to put down a self-etching primer first. Time and money saved? Hell yeah! As a bonus, the Super Build 4:1 is pretty inexpensive. I can't remember our intro price on it, but I want to say it's around $67 for a gallon of primer and $17 for the catalyst.

I tell you this because when you're all done fabbing you're gonna have a ton of finish work ahead of you. I think this stuff will save you a lot of time getting Tiny smooth as glass once the body work's done.
Click to expand...

Fixed it for ya.
 
Like any polyester product, it will absorb surface contaminants if left exposed for any length of time. Fingerprints, oils, water, all can sink into polyester and cause surface defects like fish-eyes when top-coating. But if you can go from applying it, to sanding it and then painting it in short order, you should have no problems.
Usually, I block it straight (which is primarily why I use it, there's nothing better for getting panels straight) and then put some high-build urethane on it. Urethane doesn't absorb nearly as much as polyester does, and can sit exposed for a long time.
 
69 that's awesome!!! Like Jass said, i wish I had more time, etc, etc, etc... I would love to be able to some of the fab work youre putting into that little car! I can't wait to see the finished product, but the build up pics are freaking excellent!!!
 
id hoped resto would have said something about the dash idea..maybe he needs colorfull images to make his brain function...LOL..

well here is what im thinking..take a 58 inch wide dash and hack it down to a 42 inch dash space...and re-design alot of it...youll have to forgive the rather crude chops....but you get the general idea..and the guages would be stashed deep behind dark plexi

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As much as I hate to see a 57 Ford dash get cut up, I think it'll look right in the Lloyd. Plus, with your fab skills, it'll probably look even better than we imagined.
 
yeah i hate to think of cutting one up but i have a spare + half of another(the extra i plan on widening the ashtray to mount a nice radio into with the ashtray face as a flip down door on my 58 ford)

to be honest every time ive started designing a dash its always come around to me trying to take cues off of the dash in my 58 ford sooooo this is the logical step right?...making a 58inch ped fit in a 42 inch hole

i plan on useing the "wrap" sides cutting them free of the dash and welding them to the doors so it will have that more "complete" look...unless someones got some really good other ideas
 
You'd need some seriously-bright dash lights that operate all the time to see the gauges through dark-tinted plexi.

You know what would be even cooler than plexi? Having a back panel on the gauges that fills the hole in the dash with a tight seam and is painted to match the dash. No cluster whatsoever until you twist the key. When the ignition key is turned to "run", the gauge panel retracts slightly, rotates 180° (hell, even 90°; the fill panel could be on the top or bottom of the cluster carrier) to reveal the gauges, then comes forward to fit the hole. With all the custom 12V actuators available these days, it wouldn't be that tough to accomplish, though it would take a lot of planning to get it right. Make the pivot points on which the cluster would rotate hollow (like 3/8" or 1/2" steel fuel line) the cluster wiring could be run through them so the wires would just have to twist a slight amount rather than bend back and forth.

Just trying to make your life even harder, 69.5. :D But if you did it, you'd be my friggin' hero... your current dash design really lends itself to my idea. Imagine the fun you'd have at shows demonstrating that to onlookers!
 
Oh... and when you're done with this massive undertaking, are you going to refer to is as the Lloyd Coddington? :dance:
 
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