tiny...aka 1958 lloyd
- Thread starter 69.5CUDA
- Start date
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
I would think you prolly just have to adjust the individual push rods to get the proportioning equalized. Looks like a pretty slick setup. Good score 69.5!
BTW: Power windshield?:huh:
BTW: Power windshield?:huh:
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
I just spent 2 hours reading this entire thread...WOW 69.5 you sure have skill and vision!!! :bravo:
Quite a cute car, personally though I liked the look before you widened the doors and rear fenders. I think widening the body 8 inches would have kept the look of the car more original....but that's just my 2 Cents worth....it's your car and you can do what you want....:2thumbs:
Quite a cute car, personally though I liked the look before you widened the doors and rear fenders. I think widening the body 8 inches would have kept the look of the car more original....but that's just my 2 Cents worth....it's your car and you can do what you want....:2thumbs:
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
cow
as much as i wanted to mantain the narrow "stock" body size..there was just no way to get the performance and "safeness" that i wanted short of throwing a minimum of 3000-5000 JUST for a front end and it would have been from a mustang 2...not realy a corner carving setup......this setup should carve corners like its a slot car and stop like nothing ive ever driven.......i pondered widening the centerline of the car as well...but wanted the inside of the car to still feel small......what i "should" have done after doing what ive done..is widen the body 4 inches and widened the fenders and doors 2 inches...might have balanced it out a bit better
form follows function
dippy, 68, gomo
this setp is commonly used on damn neer every race car out there from sand rails, dirt track on up thru scca, imsa and top fuel and everything inbetween....useualy willwood, tilton or afco..howe and coleman machine make the same master cyl's and brake setups in both forward(thru the firewall) and reverse(mc's inside the firewall)......theres multiple reasons i wanted to go this way.....first off was the ability to keep the plan of haveing the windshield a "power window"..next was to clean the engine bay, then theres the obvious..i can place the pedals WHERE I WANT THEM!!!
the "power windshield" work has not started but being the car has "flat" glass i wanted something BETTER than a vert..in a vert ya burn your head and arms and the wind is never realy in your face like on a motorcycle.....being ive got a power rear glass and side door glass..i took some 30's insperation..where windshields folded..why not have a windshield that goes down into the firewall...obviously anything over 30mph would probably mean eating lots of bugs..but cruising in town or at the beach...you could never beat it right?...as far as i am aware NO ONE has EVER done it on ANY car...theres not many "flat" windshield cars ..add to that room for a windshield to slide down into the firewall..doubt you find one
now "most" of these setups run a fully adjustable bias bar between the 2 brake MC's..the clutch is solo...as a "bonus" for about 30-50$ you can get a cable adjuster that bolts onto the bias bar and have a knob on the dash or console to adjust the bias on the fly(front/rear)....a HUGE bonus here is if 1 end of your brake system fails the other is 100% independent of the other...unlike a 2 chamber MC where if you lose one end the pedal goes soft and you start getting air and a bit of blow by of fluid into the chamber thats loseing it......i plan to run a proporting valve on the rear for fine tunement but with the bias adjust thats built in its not realy needed...i just want it so i can do burnouts by turning off the rear brakes
the HUGE bonus with this setup is that rebuild kits for ANY of the mc's be they willwood, afco, tilton, coleman, howe, US-brakes are 10-20$ and generaly on the shelf at any place that sells race parts..napa even stocks the kits...but hell you can get "new" mc's for around 40-50$ each in a wide varity of sizes
heres the wilwood style of the EXACT same setup...
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/index.asp
as much as i wanted to mantain the narrow "stock" body size..there was just no way to get the performance and "safeness" that i wanted short of throwing a minimum of 3000-5000 JUST for a front end and it would have been from a mustang 2...not realy a corner carving setup......this setup should carve corners like its a slot car and stop like nothing ive ever driven.......i pondered widening the centerline of the car as well...but wanted the inside of the car to still feel small......what i "should" have done after doing what ive done..is widen the body 4 inches and widened the fenders and doors 2 inches...might have balanced it out a bit better
form follows function
dippy, 68, gomo
this setp is commonly used on damn neer every race car out there from sand rails, dirt track on up thru scca, imsa and top fuel and everything inbetween....useualy willwood, tilton or afco..howe and coleman machine make the same master cyl's and brake setups in both forward(thru the firewall) and reverse(mc's inside the firewall)......theres multiple reasons i wanted to go this way.....first off was the ability to keep the plan of haveing the windshield a "power window"..next was to clean the engine bay, then theres the obvious..i can place the pedals WHERE I WANT THEM!!!
the "power windshield" work has not started but being the car has "flat" glass i wanted something BETTER than a vert..in a vert ya burn your head and arms and the wind is never realy in your face like on a motorcycle.....being ive got a power rear glass and side door glass..i took some 30's insperation..where windshields folded..why not have a windshield that goes down into the firewall...obviously anything over 30mph would probably mean eating lots of bugs..but cruising in town or at the beach...you could never beat it right?...as far as i am aware NO ONE has EVER done it on ANY car...theres not many "flat" windshield cars ..add to that room for a windshield to slide down into the firewall..doubt you find one
now "most" of these setups run a fully adjustable bias bar between the 2 brake MC's..the clutch is solo...as a "bonus" for about 30-50$ you can get a cable adjuster that bolts onto the bias bar and have a knob on the dash or console to adjust the bias on the fly(front/rear)....a HUGE bonus here is if 1 end of your brake system fails the other is 100% independent of the other...unlike a 2 chamber MC where if you lose one end the pedal goes soft and you start getting air and a bit of blow by of fluid into the chamber thats loseing it......i plan to run a proporting valve on the rear for fine tunement but with the bias adjust thats built in its not realy needed...i just want it so i can do burnouts by turning off the rear brakes
the HUGE bonus with this setup is that rebuild kits for ANY of the mc's be they willwood, afco, tilton, coleman, howe, US-brakes are 10-20$ and generaly on the shelf at any place that sells race parts..napa even stocks the kits...but hell you can get "new" mc's for around 40-50$ each in a wide varity of sizes
heres the wilwood style of the EXACT same setup...
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/index.asp
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69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
well its been cold as hell so work has been off and on slow
the pedal assembly arived and i was happy...till i got a good look at it..damn thing is broken...after contacting the seller...they KNEW it was broken and simply considered it just "in need of a NORMAL rebuild"..needless to say im PISSED...talked to my machinest and 40$ will get it welded up ....im trying to see if the seller will refund atlest half of the welding costs but the seller is standing on the welding a break is a rebuild cost...come monday im reporting them to ebay and paypal to see if i can recover some $$$
anyway heres some shots of the break...
the pedal assembly arived and i was happy...till i got a good look at it..damn thing is broken...after contacting the seller...they KNEW it was broken and simply considered it just "in need of a NORMAL rebuild"..needless to say im PISSED...talked to my machinest and 40$ will get it welded up ....im trying to see if the seller will refund atlest half of the welding costs but the seller is standing on the welding a break is a rebuild cost...come monday im reporting them to ebay and paypal to see if i can recover some $$$
anyway heres some shots of the break...
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69.5CUDA
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the other day i started working on the transaxle and driveshaft tunnel and passenger floor..NOT easy work ...in fact its hard and complicated as all hell
got annoyed and addressed the passenger door swing edge where it meets the fender..note the section i had to back cut from the door to clear the swing line
got annoyed and addressed the passenger door swing edge where it meets the fender..note the section i had to back cut from the door to clear the swing line
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69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
one last shot of the door
next back to the fabbing of the tunnel and floor...i fount the PERFECT curve to copy the top curve of the tunnel....the drive shaft i cut to use for my drill press stand
i had to "step" the tunnel a bit as the rear guibo (rubber dough nut flex joint) is a bit larger than i realized...
next shot..thats what the "stock" space between the joints used to be...and that shaft will get cut to fit between those joints(atleast for now...later i will likely go with a modern cv joint setup)
the rest of the shots are fairly explanatory..alot of angles to work from and to to tightly wrap around the transaxle to make as much space as i can for seats and such
next back to the fabbing of the tunnel and floor...i fount the PERFECT curve to copy the top curve of the tunnel....the drive shaft i cut to use for my drill press stand
i had to "step" the tunnel a bit as the rear guibo (rubber dough nut flex joint) is a bit larger than i realized...
next shot..thats what the "stock" space between the joints used to be...and that shaft will get cut to fit between those joints(atleast for now...later i will likely go with a modern cv joint setup)
the rest of the shots are fairly explanatory..alot of angles to work from and to to tightly wrap around the transaxle to make as much space as i can for seats and such
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69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
the last of the pic's for tonight....passenger floor and tunnel are essentially done short of 3 VERY small patches still need to be made and all of the welds need to be finished and cleaned....but im still running from my 1lb reserve spool of wire so full welding will have to wait for another few days
you never realize the sheer amount of fabrication and metal work required to build a surround for a transaxle/transmission till your actually building it...alot of the shapes have to be cut into multiple pieces to get the shape even ruffly close
you never realize the sheer amount of fabrication and metal work required to build a surround for a transaxle/transmission till your actually building it...alot of the shapes have to be cut into multiple pieces to get the shape even ruffly close
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thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Rebuilding a unit usually doesn't require re-welding the joints!!!
Sellers an A-hole and he should at least refund you half the welding cost...it's not that much...better yet he should pay the $40 to reweld it. But I think you have offered him a very fair comprimise and he should do what's right.
Man that's a lot of fab work....how many miles of welds will you have when done....:doh:
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
after being a rude ass i got 20$..but boy did i have to get rude and angry
cow ...welding length hmm
the doors are 2foot by 2 foot(ruffly) and thers 2 seams per door...the rear quarters are about 6 foot from the door gap to the bottom edge 2 seems per quarter..then theres the floor pan and frame....ive went thru a 20lb spool and a half......and have a crap load of seems to weld up
was BSing with the guy who runs the micro car show/club for oregon he offered to weld up the brake houseing for me...so i dropped it off today...hit a wrecker on the way home hopeing to still see an old trashy(international) PU that i was considering for a hood donar...crushed..but there was a VERY straight (obviously rust free)2dr 67 furry..i snagged the "new" looking seatbelt retainer springy thingys...and got some more dash/console ideas while roaming the yard
cow ...welding length hmm
the doors are 2foot by 2 foot(ruffly) and thers 2 seams per door...the rear quarters are about 6 foot from the door gap to the bottom edge 2 seems per quarter..then theres the floor pan and frame....ive went thru a 20lb spool and a half......and have a crap load of seems to weld up
was BSing with the guy who runs the micro car show/club for oregon he offered to weld up the brake houseing for me...so i dropped it off today...hit a wrecker on the way home hopeing to still see an old trashy(international) PU that i was considering for a hood donar...crushed..but there was a VERY straight (obviously rust free)2dr 67 furry..i snagged the "new" looking seatbelt retainer springy thingys...and got some more dash/console ideas while roaming the yard
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
Hey 69.5 just a heads up. Our waterjet machine is down hard for a while. The crankshaft on the high pressure (50K PSI) pump started making bad "klankity klankity klankity" noises. We're getting a repair quote together but it'll take a while to get it fixed with the rate our supply/contracting department works.:doubt:
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
SEXY SEXY SEXY!!!!!
in my mind from day 1 i always knew the lloyd needed a late 40's early 50s hoodline to set the car off and finish the "look" with all the rest of even the "stock" body lines
day or so ago i went scouting for a hood..and had "mostly" made up my mind..today i picked it up.....TIGHT fit to get it into the minivan...turns out the hood is a 49-54 chevy coupe hood(grumble grumble chevy)....there are NO fords with the correct lines and no mopars either..my only hope was a GM hood or a merc hood..merc's are scarce
the yard quoted me 35-50$ for the hood even tho they wernt sure exactly what hood i had picked out as i said the one sitting on the toronado and surface rusty.....owner stuck by the price 50$ and i even offered him 75 just in case...but hell i do sooo much damn buisness out there for so many years the guy knows me all to well
anyway here it is home..tight fit in the van
note the lack of "rot"
3 small creases in a section thats more than likely going to be scraped anyway..and 1 VERY small dent that i cant even get a pic of..not till i clean the metal
these next pic's..i about exploded from extecsy..the look is off the damn scale..all i can say is jaw dropingly SEXY!!!!!!! :giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy:
obviously the hood is HUGE and needs ALOT of cutting to make it work and fit..but you cant argue with the look[smilie=2:...btw the funny spots on the hood...it started raining as i carried it into the shop
in my mind from day 1 i always knew the lloyd needed a late 40's early 50s hoodline to set the car off and finish the "look" with all the rest of even the "stock" body lines
day or so ago i went scouting for a hood..and had "mostly" made up my mind..today i picked it up.....TIGHT fit to get it into the minivan...turns out the hood is a 49-54 chevy coupe hood(grumble grumble chevy)....there are NO fords with the correct lines and no mopars either..my only hope was a GM hood or a merc hood..merc's are scarce
the yard quoted me 35-50$ for the hood even tho they wernt sure exactly what hood i had picked out as i said the one sitting on the toronado and surface rusty.....owner stuck by the price 50$ and i even offered him 75 just in case...but hell i do sooo much damn buisness out there for so many years the guy knows me all to well
anyway here it is home..tight fit in the van
note the lack of "rot"
3 small creases in a section thats more than likely going to be scraped anyway..and 1 VERY small dent that i cant even get a pic of..not till i clean the metal
these next pic's..i about exploded from extecsy..the look is off the damn scale..all i can say is jaw dropingly SEXY!!!!!!! :giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy::giggedy:
obviously the hood is HUGE and needs ALOT of cutting to make it work and fit..but you cant argue with the look[smilie=2:...btw the funny spots on the hood...it started raining as i carried it into the shop
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Diplomat_Wagon
Hiding In The Bushes While
That hood is gonna look SAHWEEEET!!!!!! :giggedy:
sentenced03
Well-known member
i second that notion
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
Like you said, it's gonna need a lot of creative cutting to get it to work. If anyone is going to be able to pull it off though, it would be you. 
Can't wait to see the end result!
Can't wait to see the end result!
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
after a LONG examination of the hood last night..its actualy going to take ALOT less work that i had imagined...fist off the hood is rivited togethed down the center line..so today im going to split it into 2 halves with simplisity and then trim off the rear corners on a straight line...minor re-sculpt required on the edge where it meets the fender at the VERY front edge and 1 inch pie oout of the sides ..otherwise it should be an easy job
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
ok ..after a few hours cleanup on the hood... i got 1 half of it acceptably clean, ground down the rivets and split the hood into its 2 halves making it MUCH MUCH easier to work with
marked off the back edge so i could lose the "wings"(the sections that would normally wrap around the cowl due to a curved windshield)..had to go buy me a BIG square for some nice LONG 90 deg marks off the centerline
after lopping the hood square on the back edge i focused on the fact that its toooooooo long by almost 1 foot or a lil more...so i chopped off another section and started to fashion it into a cowl...as i plan for the cowl to be the "transition" piece to tie the hood lines into the rest of the body
tacked the hood into place and taped up the body line per resto's sugjestion.....theres going to be ALOT less work involved that i could have ever imagined
i need to hack the rear of the hood back another 4 inches for the cowl area, pie out a piece of the nose to flatten it out some since i had to angle the hood some..and pie out a piece down the center line of the hood for the 2 halves to come back together..then fill a area between the fender and hood...thats it
you cant argue with the look tho!!!
marked off the back edge so i could lose the "wings"(the sections that would normally wrap around the cowl due to a curved windshield)..had to go buy me a BIG square for some nice LONG 90 deg marks off the centerline
after lopping the hood square on the back edge i focused on the fact that its toooooooo long by almost 1 foot or a lil more...so i chopped off another section and started to fashion it into a cowl...as i plan for the cowl to be the "transition" piece to tie the hood lines into the rest of the body
tacked the hood into place and taped up the body line per resto's sugjestion.....theres going to be ALOT less work involved that i could have ever imagined
i need to hack the rear of the hood back another 4 inches for the cowl area, pie out a piece of the nose to flatten it out some since i had to angle the hood some..and pie out a piece down the center line of the hood for the 2 halves to come back together..then fill a area between the fender and hood...thats it
you cant argue with the look tho!!!
