tiny...aka 1958 lloyd

[69.5CUDA]

soo with the fender 1/4 inch up the only option was to cut the new door jamb area and "tweak" it ..this put everything right where it should be...


the camera tells the lines

next up i dropped in a 4foot 4inch strip onto the gap to take a quick look ..note the small aluminum square so i wont weld the panel to the upper quarter

traced the "curve" onto the strip

tacked it into place and re-used the strip i cut off to fill the gap on the otherside of the same curved section....means less wasted material..actually almost ZERO wasted material


next up was to try and do the roll and back section of the gap

 

[69.5CUDA]

one last shot

im having a bit of an issue with the bottom 8 inches or so as i dont like the way it "should" curve to maintain the "stock" lip line....if i maintain the "stock" lip line it shoves the edge in at the body giving a really messed up line where the fender comes to a point and tapers back into the main body...what im going to have to do is change the mount on the body by about 3/8's inch so that it flows flat to the body giving a "correct" look and feel to it

on a side note this 4inch strip really shows how much curve there is down the side of the body......as much as the camera doesnt show it, the transition roll at the top of the fender into the 4 inch strip is smooth and perfect there is NO sharp edge to it like it looks...its got as smooth of roll as a 49 merc


overall im pleased with the look its got a SERIOUS 50's gangster leadslead feel to it but has a modern race wide body aggressiveness its weird that the to could ever be combined...i would have never expected the 2 styles to work soo well together.....and its still smaller than a mini cooper :giggedy:

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

Man thats alot of work.


Are you leaving the top of the door like the way it is now?

The line looks weird to me, it curves up to the top of the door and then in 4" and WHAM 90* angle.

JMO.


EDIT:

Nevermind, I just saw the last pic and it all flows together, my bad.

 

[69.5CUDA]

it looks like a 90 on camera only...i assure you that roll is SMOOTH and flowing...if it was primed it wouldnt stand out like a 90 deg turn...its actually ALOT less sharp than the roll on the top of the front fenders on 72-80 dodge truck ....even tho it looks sharp

went out and just got a "profile" shot of the driver door at the front so you guys can better see what the curve looks like "stock" ...mind you YES the driver side door has NOT been widened yet but at the very front edge the roll is flat topped...the line down the entire body now holds this shape..where before the roll cam up tight and didnt have the flat top to make it look complete

no biggy its a tricky line to actually show with a camera..it even looks funny in my eyes and i have to run my hands over it...a lil primer and it wont even be noticed

 

[69.5CUDA]

nothing to special today...

finished the driver door patching(the bottom was rotted HARD)..instead of the "4inch" it took 5inches to widen and patch the majority of the rot

i also finished off the hinge plate area widening including moving the "lip" for the weatherstripping as well...on a side note i FULL welded the top edge of the fender where it rolls into the door jamb area...i did this so i could grind and smooth the roll as it "was" 2 piece of sheet

on another side note...the fender is NOT welded to the body..it still comes off the same way it did when it left the factory...should make working on this car simplistic


mind you im not "full" welding anything yet instead just stitching stuff as im down to a 1lb "emergency" spool (keeps me working atleast :shifty...wont have the $$$ to get another 10lber till the 1st..as well as some more 18guage sheet

 

[gomopar440]

Have you been able to perform a swing test with the door on the hinges yet? If you haven't already, you may want to, just to make sure the extra width of the door won't catch on the striker area when you open it.

 

[69.5CUDA]

Have you been able to perform a swing test with the door on the hinges yet? If you haven't already, you may want to, just to make sure the extra width of the door won't catch on the striker area when you open it.

if your referring to the front fender end..the door naturally has taper to it but ill clearance out the striker area which hasnt been built yet

if your referring to the door hinge side(suicide from the factory)...i cheated and moved the hinges out giving me PERFECT alignment to the fender and correct door to fender clearance thru the full swing of the hinges as it maintains the factory setup

 

[MoparMatt]

Pretty COOL! I've never seen a Lloyd in person, nor did I know they were imported here. I found a pair of Goliaths in a bone yard years ago, a coupe and a two-door wagon. If memory serves correct, that marque was pre DKW aaaand the wall.

You mentioned Mini Coopers, they are a blast to drive! I'd like to find one of my own. Dad and I had a few Land Rovers and two Triumphs, they were attention-getters for sure!

 

[gomopar440]

Good to know you already had a solution. I forgot you were going suicide on the hinges.

 

[69.5CUDA]

Good to know you already had a solution. I forgot you were going suicide on the hinges.

i didnt change to suicide on the hinges....they were that way from the factory on ALL lloyds ever made from the first ones in 51? till the last one in 61:giggedy:

 

[gomopar440]

Even better! Coolness points straight from the factory!

 

[69.5CUDA]

well spent most of yesterday running around picking up some more cut off wheels, more sheetmetal at scrap price(i keep getting lucky and getting it cheep) back out for a cut wheel for the chop saw and the wife sent me running around too

managed to get the remaining 5 2 inch strips cut to do the entire drivers side and mocked up the drivers side door post..also got my rocker extensions in for the drivers side..these are for 2 reasons...1 to get a SOLID point out further since it will be steped on ALOT getting in and out of the car also to give me a good point to roll a rocker skin off of

since the 4 inch strips are cut i shot a few pic's of the driver and passenger door together since the driver is still stock and the passenger is 4 inches wider...good befor and after in the same shot

 

[69.5CUDA]

today however i managed to pretty much build the entire uhh rear?(cant realy call it rear as its in front of the rear wheels but theres no room for a back seat) floor pan over the transaxle..lotta angles to try and maximize space inside the car..make space for the back corner of the front seats and still clear the transaxle and some suspension parts

also braced sliced the driver door in half ..will widen it tomaro

 

[gomopar440]

Wastin no time cuttin on the other side I see.

How long before you have the majority of the sheetmetal back in place (at this pace)?

 

[69.5CUDA]

at the rate im moveing..not long...but theres alot of stuff you dont see that ive yet to attack..like the wheel well to fender extensions .....the stumbling block right now is the lack of hood to cut and re-arange to what i want it to be...ive been thinking about scratch building the hood entirely instead of buying a hood to cut up

anyway...onto todays work

completly built the driver door..obviously needs to be fully welded and i think im going to build in a few braces and mounts but its otherwise done and matches the passenger door

i also made the bolting rail for the driver rear fender

will see if i cant stretch the driver rear fender tomaro ..once the driver fender is done its time to start attacking the front clip or make my rolled rear pan and rockers

the micro/mini car show got bumped up a month early this year and the organizer and i have talked quite a bit and he would like me to be able to drive it a lil at the show to give some rides to a few ppl....so thats what im shooting for...its in june...told him if i had to make it driveable he had to bring his subaru 360 that he put a mitsu turbo motor in.....i dont plan on being "road worthy" but the show has a HUGE parking lot as its at the local roadcoarse and 1/4-1/8 mile(portland international raceway)

 

[69.5CUDA]

wasted most of the day away from home ...but while i was out i spent some time at the micro car NW organizers shop and got some MUCH needed FINAL!! measurements from his rather hammered and abused lloyd..72k miles on it ..mine had 21k Kph on it...still trying to talk him out of it :toot:

anyway....with measurements in hand i re-adjusted the drivers side door post and upper quarter alignment to bring it into spec..welded up the new "inner" door post as well

as i started getting the door into place i ran into a HUGE problem..tho it took me almost 20 mins to figure out WTF was going wrong....as i recall the driver door rubber the REAR fender every time i opened it BEFORE disassembly of the car..at that time i assumed it was a hinge or fender adjustment ...while trying to get it adjusted the door hinge was hitting the hinge pocket wall...seems that the factory screwed up BIG TIME!!! and punched and welded the door hinge mounts 1/4 inch off...so the driver door rubber from the factory!...talk about one huge fuck-up!..to add insult to injury there is ZERO in and out adjustment for the hinges..tho on the body side there is up and down adjustment slots.....soooo i slotted the door so the hinge can be further adjusted..and BAM an hour later a correct aligning door:giggedy:...during all that time i had asumed the door post was wrong so i cut it back out..so i had to re-install it again as well :doubt:

once the post was back in and spot on i found that the outer half was 1/4 inch low..had to break it off and move it up and re-weld it...

now with the post all sorted out i started fender mock up, bolted the new bolt rail in place, cut out the curved fill panel and my 4 inch spacer strips, and started tacking it all in place..should be able to finish welding it all up tomaro

still playing with the body lines a tad bit but there fairly close

 

[69.5CUDA]

well driver side hip is stitched in....still need to full weld it along with the rest of everything else..but right now im working from a 2lb roll of wire.....dont have the 40$ to get a 10lb..so stitching is what im doing to keep working

anyway drivers side rear fender went off without any real issues...

got you guys some "money shots" ..tossed some weldable primer on the back edge to not screw with your eyes to much and better bland it all for the shot..also tossed the tail lights in...........still need to build the rolled pans from scratch as the old ones were fairly manged and WAY to small to bother using..i wouldnt call 2 inches a rolled pan..and the stock ones were ruffly 2 inches smashed to 1 inch :doh:

i also finally did the wheel well chop on the driver rear fender...notice the curve of the fender actually leaves the wheel hanging outside the lip ever so slightly


time to move onto the front clip! :giggedy:....well almost..i need to do the driver door hinge post skin

 

[a12bee]

Oh shit. Good job, it's looks cleaner than I thought it would. Well done. :2thumbs:

 

[69.5CUDA]

Oh shit. Good job, it's looks cleaner than I thought it would. Well done. :2thumbs:

yeah quite aggressive isnt it

bolted up the front clip and started playing with idea's...bent up some thin aluminum to see what kind of shape the cowl and hood need to be

obviously the angle's not quite right but i thin k the general shape and idea are sound..atleast at the windshield end

 

[69.5CUDA]

no real work has been done in a week..ive been down feeling like shit

HOWEVER..ive been feeling good since yesterday so work should resume shortly.....spring's comming and parts from the milano donar have been selling faster than i can get shipping prices for them..racked in about 500$ which will go right back into the lloyd...today i snapped this baby up off ebay for a lil over 40$....to give you a bit of back ground...the cheepest one ive seen since i started watching about a year ago was 120$....this one was badly listed and i snipered it at the last 30'sec

reverse hung brakes..this will make sure i can still do the power windshield...it also keeps the brake fluid cooler as it never gets engine bay heat ...course if they leak there dripping on your legs...i plan to build a aluminum pan to go under them with a fluid sensor in the tray to alert me of leaks

out of the profits of the donar parts 2 things were/are #1 on the priority list..brake/clutch pedal assembly(see above) and a shortened drive line....time to start calling around to see who will do it at a reasonable price.....3-5 is rad, from probably a newwer celica, shift cables and shifter from a neon, and some kind of steering column thats longer than the milano.....with these items in hand i can do a parking lot shake down of the chassis