Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Now that is above & beyond! I thank you, Shoot me a number & I'll get you my address so you can figure out the shipping.
wanna do paypal or I can just send you a check, I'll do friends & family so they don't eat into it.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
OK I have the dash speaker harness, still not locating anything for the rears? View attachment 25601there were definitely 2 back there.......................View attachment 25602
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The crossover and OE wiring are not likely to work with a modern aftermarket radio, at least not well. The OE stuff used common grounds, often chassis ground, of which aftermarket stuff made after about 1985 isn't particularly fond. I won't get into the particulars, but it would probably have significant noise. For the corner dash speakers I'd still recommend the ones I linked above, wired directly to the new radio. If experience has taught me anything, those 3-1/2" speakers are shot; I'd guess the paper cones would rip if you sneezed on them.
The rear speakers you have pictured above are definitely not OE Chrysler; in fact they're 1986-'95 GM speakers used in G- and H-body cars of that era (RWD Monte Carlo, Buick Regal, Grand Prix and FWD Delta 88/98 Regency, Buick LeSabre, Pontiac Bonneville). They're actually not terrible speakers when used with their original enclosures. They also might top-mount (sit atop the package tray, beneath its cover panel) and mount easily with speed nuts clipped to the metal tray. The downside to them is finding the long-discontinued connectors for 'em.


RUSTY Cuda said:
I think this is the under the seat harness??? View attachment 25603
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I tried to ID this harness going by the connector closest to center and was not able to find anything like it in either the '73 or '74 service manual. I can find that type of connector, just not with yellow and white wires. I'm also tired and probably not as focused as I could be.


RUSTY Cuda said:
I think I got these from charger man, front mounting is different not sure I can adapt, View attachment 25604
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The bane of putting a decent center speaker in an E-body is that oddball football-shaped speaker. I do not know of a direct-fit replacement offhand. One of my dash pads shows evidence of someone attempting to use one with the standard 4"x10" flange shown on the Pioneer, but only two of the four holes were drilled and I've no idea whether it actually fit. Those parts were long gone when I got the pad. You're on your own here, as I've not yet determined what I'm going to do in that hole.
The same stupid speaker was used in 1971-'74 B-bodies. On my '72 SE, I used a rear roof speaker from an early '90s Suburban that had a forward-facing tweeter (which faced the rear in my car). The trick there was that the B-body grille is a metal panel with screw holes around the perimeter of the speaker, so it held the speaker in place. I don't think I'd want to risk my plastic grille to attempt it on my Challenger.


RUSTY Cuda said:
rear is pyramid & there were 2 covers in the box? View attachment 25606
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Do you only have one Pyramid speaker? Those would work well, assuming you had a pair. Pyramid ain't top-shelf stuff but it's not lousy either. They would have to be bottom-mounted (below the metal package tray) though--they won't sit down flat in the existing speaker cutouts. I don't know of any aftermarket speakers that will. I'm going to cut my Challenger so I can top-mount mine... bottom-mounting kind sucks.
Don't worry about "how much power they'll take"--even the most expensive speakers will still work on a 2W signal.
The speaker grilles for the Pyramids? I'd toss 'em. Hide the speakers under a stock-looking package tray and be done with it. It looks much nicer that way.
 
No rush Bob, it's gonna be a while before it goes in, still waiting for my axles, dropped the parts off a month ago.
Mr 340 has my oil pickup all welded back up but hasn't been able to get here, waiting on him to check out the lifters & put in the new push rods, then I can button up the top of the motor & get the oil pan on.
I want to start getting in some stuff under the dash, but without a windshield I'm afraid the insulation will get wet, might just go ahead & start tarping the car again?
this way heater box & ducts can at least go in?
Then for the really hot weather I need to find more shop work after spending 1/2 my life in hot attics I hate anything over 75 or 80.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
No rush Bob, it's gonna be a while before it goes in, still waiting for my axles, dropped the parts off a month ago.
Mr 340 has my oil pickup all welded back up but hasn't been able to get here, waiting on him to check out the lifters & put in the new push rods, then I can button up the top of the motor & get the oil pan on.
I want to start getting in some stuff under the dash, but without a windshield I'm afraid the insulation will get wet, might just go ahead & start tarping the car again?
this way heater box & ducts can at least go in?
Then for the really hot weather I need to find more shop work after spending 1/2 my life in hot attics I hate anything over 75 or 80.
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Even with a tarp, odds are that anything absorbent is going to get wet. I would build the dash on the bench, test it, and make a long weekend task out of putting that in and installing the glass. But that's easy for me to say since I've got a garage so rain isn't a problem for me.
 
Mr 340 just dropped off the oil pickup, so I can button up the bottom, maybe has some time next weekend, I'd like Him here when I do the top. check lifters, install rockers & push rods (well at least one side) & put the intake on.

I'm gonna get a glass man for the windshield, so I have to time that all out when the dash pad comes back, by the way ups says it was delivered, I emailed Bob to please confirm that he got it?

one of these days I have to order the fuel pump, water pump, alternator & someday a rebuilt A/C compressor! Probably a lot of the electric parts too?
 
Dr.Jass said:
It goes in place of that flat steel plate with the three screws on the side of the valve body.
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Here are the photos I took, can take more but this shows the only flat plates I saw. The two on the same side have more than 3 screws, can't tell how many the other one has in that photo.

1688239977485.png

1688240062578.png
If it's there I can just send the whole valve body.
 
Buttoned up the bottom end , before I put the pump & pickup in I pulled the windage tray & shot some pics up in there, I know it doesn't tell much, but to my eye it looks pretty clean in there.
just stuck a socket on each bolt none were loose? 20230701_135906.jpg20230701_135816.jpg20230701_135850.jpg20230701_135900.jpgone more small thing done one thing I noticed & must hav20230701_150639.jpge deleted the pic, the cork gasket on the other side bulged out a little more than this side?
 
Yes, the PTK replaces the five-bolt flat plate. Only three of them were visible in the photo and I had the earlier transmissions on the brain. It doesn't appear that B-body-bob has it either. The earlier ('66-'70 Slant Six) PTK valves were a 3-bolt affair in a neat little self-contained casting, the later ones fit between that plate and the valve body:

img_1067-jpg-jpg.1715612300



1971-later passenger-car A727s (and '66-up Slant Six transmissions) have it native, but not the trucks. I saw about twenty 727s in various states of disassembly today; I'm going back there tomorrow and I'll see if there's anything lying around that I can get for you.
 
First things first: False alarm. @RUSTY Cuda, your transmission already does have PTK. I reversed the image in my head; I'm used to looking from the top side of the valve body. Your picture is from the bottom. No worries; you're good to go. The steel plate you pictured is on the opposite side of the transmission from the location of the PTK valve assembly (it's over by the accumulator part of the casting--the big round bit that sticks out).

Too many different angles, too many years since I thought about any of this. Also, too many years from my birth. Sheesh... I'm all screwed up.

The plate is steel. If you look closely at the last photo I posted, you can see that there's a small casting (the PTK assembly) sandwiched between the plate and the main valve body on the LH unit inside the red border; on the right unit the plate is bolted directly to the main valve body. Again, this is a three-bolt plate located below the 1-R servo (with the big rocker-arm lookin' thing) in the picture you took of your valve body. It's hard to tell from that angle, but based on the position of the cover plate in relation to the valve-body bolt in the upper left, it's present on your transmission.

Bob's transmission has it too. His photo being taken 180° out from yours made it hard to tell, but it's there. His is also the '71-up style, which uses the steel cover plate.

The 1966-'70 unit looks like this:

AA22740-32SI.jpg


Notice it's not a sandwich design; it doesn't use the steel cover plate. The early style will not work correctly on the later valve bodies, nor will the later one work quite right on an earlier transmission (and none will work on a cable-shift trans without moficiations). No big deal, since the '71-up valve body is a better unit than the early style.

Here's an exploded view of the '71-up PTK (diagram shows only the upper half of the valve body):

7316236-partthrottle.jpg



Show's over; nothing to see here. I'll just wander off muttering to myself like the confused old man I'm becoming.
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Buttoned up the bottom end , before I put the pump & pickup in I pulled the windage tray & shot some pics up in there, I know it doesn't tell much, but to my eye it looks pretty clean in there.
just stuck a socket on each bolt none were loose? View attachment 25616View attachment 25617View attachment 25618View attachment 25619one more small thing done one thing I noticed & must havView attachment 25615e deleted the pic, the cork gasket on the other side bulged out a little more than this side?
Click to expand...
I've got a one piece rubber gasket on the way to try and avoid that. I understand I'll have to use more silicon to make up difference between Magnum and LA parts but if it lets me put the pan on once and leave it alone, it's worth it.

I am not using a 90* adapter though. I'd rather use a short filter than add another possible leak.
 
b-body-bob said:
I've got a one piece rubber gasket on the way to try and avoid that. I understand I'll have to use more silicon to make up difference between Magnum and LA parts but if it lets me put the pan on once and leave it alone, it's worth it.

I am not using a 90* adapter though. I'd rather use a short filter than add another possible leak.
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Look one up for a '92 Dakota with a V6. It's about as short as they get. That engine really should've had a 90° adapter; the standard '72-up shorter filter (51085?)is nearly impossible to install.
 
OK, tranny good to go!

Now I was looking at the rear speakers I pulled, had to scratch my head a bit, but if the caps are still on I have to assume they were never hooked up, hence no wiring. So that search is over, I will have to run my own!

I'm not touching the 90* adapter, gasket hard to get & mine on the other car did have a little leak,
of course right onto the headers for a little fog out every startup it sat a while!
 
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