Looking for garage/shop info....

ill have to look into those fittings

cow i could go on for days of the things ive learned..and while the 30x60 in the hills is basicly no more...at an elevation of neerly 2k..it got canadian style snow fall..which helped me learn more than i ever expected especialy about floor condensation and such as well as heating the dead of winter

while the sink n shitter isnt a "must" pluming for it in advance even if nothing ever gets hooked up is a HUGE bonus..the 30x60 was plumbed but never got any

really when it comes to a shop...anything you can pre plan for that would require alot later and youll find yourself ahead of the game

"if" you can..keep your eyes peeled for a forklift or a forklift mod for that bobcat of yours..then you can get industrial shelving and get yourself a LOAD of storage sace..but you could build the loft out of it as well......i had a corner loft with the ferarri and the lloyd on top of it
 
69.5CUDA said:
"if" you can..keep your eyes peeled for a forklift or a forklift mod for that bobcat of yours..then you can get industrial shelving and get yourself a LOAD of storage space..but you could build the loft out of it as well......i had a corner loft with the ferarri and the lloyd on top of it
Click to expand...

I most definitely want a set of forks for my machine....sooner then later. With the construction of the shop I'll be needing it to unload pallets, lumber and supplies. ;)
 
Milton part number S217 is a "starter pack" that comes with two female-thread couplers, two male-thread plugs, and two female-thread plugs. All the threads are 1/4"NPT, essentially the standard for shop air tools. All the individual pieces have part numbers starting with S76. Couplers and plugs are also available in 3/8"NPT, which is what I used at the ends of my plumbed system.

Milton V-style air fittings
 
I used to use the pricey DeVilbiss high flow fittings for all my spray equipment. The Milton fittings look very similar, but when I swapped one of my spray guns over I had to re-adjust the gun from my standard settings. The gun seemed quieter too... a sure sign it was breathing a little easier with the Miltons
 
Well I have been working on getting all my ducks in a row, and starting the permit process....still have frost in the ground, and weight restrictions on the roads so be another month or so before those are lifted. Anyway been talking with the planning dept, and inspectors trying to find out what's allowed, what's not, and all the other things that are required to build.

Bunch of the answers to my questions has caused me to have to re-think some of my previous ideas.

I was hoping to be able to build a pole barn type shop, but they have removed that style of shop/garage from their approved list....so I have to build a frost/foundation wall that is at least 54"...as well as I have to have special engineered drawings and structure if I build a shop with stud walls taller then 12'...if I do build taller then 12' then large stud walls and additional supports in the trusses are required as well. So with all this it has dictated I build the shop closer to the house, since with the rules for the foundation I would have to build a driveway, level and grade the area and bring in material for the foundation wall to be built upon, additional drainage and culverts might be required as well.....since very little of our acreage is flat.
wink.gif
So might be looking at a 32x48, or a 40x48 size shop now.

For The radiant floor heating is no problem, just have have vapor barrier, then a minimum R12.5 rigid insulation, then tubing, then the concrete, and then have to apply for a outdoor boiler permit when I get to that point. Also have to have an engineered drawing with pad/location, and below ground structure, for the hoist as well. I asked about a wood burning stove to heat the shop....huge requirements for that....has to be raised off the ground to protect from tipped chemicals and allow proper airflow, also have protective posts so you can't accidentally drive into it etc. So guess overhead natural gas for now, or perhaps a propane fired heater until I get the boiler....will have to see what the cost comparison is, might be a boiler is cheaper in the long run?

So that is where I am at now.....still jumping through the hoops.
 
Don't ya just love dealing with building codes. :( Some of them are common sense, but some others make no sense at all. :doh:
 
68R/T said:
Don't ya just love dealing with building codes. :( Some of them are common sense, but some others make no sense at all. :doh:
Click to expand...

Got that right. Been wondering why they would not allow a pole barn type building, and think I might know why. My permit costs are based on the overall "finished" cost of the shop, so having to pour a concrete foundation increase those costs significantly...thus more money in their pockets. :(
 
Pole buildings are more easily damaged by weather. My guess is you're partly right, and that insurance companies are also to, uh, thank for them not being approved.
 
My 2 new garages are pole frame buildings, and they have cement floor. They are cheaper to build than stick frame, but I don't agree with the weather damage. Six by six pressure treated poles cemented in provide a much stronger structure than any stick frame that's anchored to the slab. And being covered in steel makes it a lot less flammable. :huh: And a steel roof weighs less than wood & shingles, so there's less weight up high making it less vulnerable to wind damage.
 
Dr.Jass said:
Pole buildings are more easily damaged by weather. My guess is you're partly right, and that insurance companies are also to, uh, thank for them not being approved.
Click to expand...

Hadn't thought of that about the insurance claims. I had sent an e-mail asking about anyway around the "no" pole barn issue, but pretty much they say no way no how. ;)
 
68R/T said:
My 2 new garages are pole frame buildings, and they have cement floor. They are cheaper to build than stick frame, but I don't agree with the weather damage. Six by six pressure treated poles cemented in provide a much stronger structure than any stick frame that's anchored to the slab. And being covered in steel makes it a lot less flammable. :huh: And a steel roof weighs less than wood & shingles, so there's less weight up high making it less vulnerable to wind damage.
Click to expand...

That was what I asked in my e-mail...about large posts concreted in.
 
There used to be a local ordinance against pole buildings in the city limits. But with the advancements that they've made they can now frame them in a way that they can be sided and resemble a wood framed building. There are so many advantages to pole framed over wood. Maybe you should try to open their eyes to the advantages. And inform them that if they allowed pole frames they just may end up with more constructions to buy permits for. :hmmm:
 
I wonder if the new building codes don't contain some earthquake related provisions/restrictions on pole barns... you know, for when that Big One strikes the west coast?
We're geographically in Tornado Alley up here, and pole barns are still good with Code. New version comes out next May, so that may all change...
 
Resto.....never thought of that, but I doubt we'll get much shaking up here in the north of BC. ;)

68...The inspector said I could build one, but only if an engineering firm OK's the build, and signs off on the construction. So no liability for them.
 
thrashingcows said:
68...The inspector said I could build one, but only if an engineering firm OK's the build, and signs off on the construction. So no liability for them.
Click to expand...

So it's all about greasing someones palm. :doh:Would it be that difficult to do this? It could save you thousands in the end. :huh:
 
So I was right. It's an insurance concern. Not everyone's pole buildings are built like yours, 68. In fact, I'd wager most aren't. A former co-worker built a 48'x60' shop on his property back around '03, and those posts were supported by individual concrete "cookies" sunk six feet into the ground. The slab was done later (if it was done, I don't really know). It had a dirt floor the last time I looked at it, years ago. Would it have blown away? Probably not, but trees with amazing root systems--a far better anchoring system than that--go over in windstorms all the time, and they're not connected by framework and large flat panels. The "cookie" method was the de facto method of pole-building construction for years, and it's still quite common, if not prevalent.
 
68R/T said:
So it's all about greasing someones palm. :doh:Would it be that difficult to do this? It could save you thousands in the end. :huh:
Click to expand...

He was very honest and straight forward during our conversations, he highly doubted a local engineering firm would actually do it though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top