Lets discuss thermoquads

A duel plane intake on a W-2 Engine is a lot like slapping a tunnel ram on a engine with 318 heads. Both have there flow restricted, a lot.
 
The early w2's don't flow that much. A lot better than stock heads for sure, but they're not 300 cfm heads out of the box or anything like that. I think mine flowed 260 when I had one tested some years ago. The better modern dual plane designs can support quite a bit of power.
 
The only dual-planes that could hope to keep up with a W2 head are the Edelbrock Performer RPM and the Weiand Stealth, neither of which to my knowledge can be had or feasibly modified to work with a W2 heads. The W2 dual-planes all suck donkey as they're just 360 intakes modified at the head flanges to fit the W2 head.

Get a Victor W2 or a W2 Strip Dominator single plane, paint it engine color, and hide it under a stock 4bbl air cleaner with a bunch of 1/2" holes drilled around the bottom perimeter outside the gasket area to increase intake flow. Anything else is just pissing in the wind. Dual-planes are for pulling trailers or stumps and have no place on a performance engine, street or otherwise. The Edelbrock Performer RPM is pretty good--excellent for a dual-plane--but still can't hang with an M1 single-plane, Strip Dominator, or Victor.
 
It's already shipped now. I guess we'll see...


Hey Pierre, did you happen to see the thread about that offenhauser manifold I got in a batch of parts I bought? I forget the part number now, it's in the thread, but I can't find much of anything useful on the manifold like the rpm range for example. The thread should be lurking fairly near the top of the tech section.
 
TQ's

Like the Dr., I have had nothing but good luck rebuilding tq's. They are a good strong carb and never let you down. I have only seen one that had a warped center section, I'm fairly sure that the guy punted it across the parking lot. Had better luck with the 800's. Happy hunting, that"s half the fun.
 
Stretch said:
T-quads are great carbs if rebuilt properly. They only have a bad rep because most people don’t understand how to build and tune the properly.
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Stretch said:
If you fallow the rebuild procedure in the F.S.M. to the “T” and make all of the linkage adjustments as described you will have a fantastic carb.
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That about sums up T-quads.....:2thumbs:

Took me quite a few years to figure this out but now that I can tune them they are one of the best carbs I've ever run!! :giggedy:
 
Thanks for all the info everyone, Now I got all winter to search for a carb to rebuild.
I had a T-quad on my Challenger back in my younger days but swapped it out to an 1860 holley single feed due to the extra 250 horse power it would make......at least at the ripe old age of 16 thats what my friends told me.



As for intakes I still have the stock 1987 spread bore. Lots of emissions baloney on it like a port in the intake floor and what not. Should I plug it and run it or look for an older intake?
 
Is it a plug, or is it the EGR standpipe? If it's the standpipe, remove it and replace it with a pipe plug that will sit flush. Even the late-model 360 intakes are better than, say, an Edelbrock Performer (non-RPM) when it comes to making HP. Usually around 10-15HP.
 
Looks like I need to drag that intake out from the scrap metal pile.
I got a lead on one off a 1973 400
 
Yo Jass

It does have a stand pipe but my next question is about the choke pull off area on the intake. It has the cut out for it but no mounting holes what do I do there? Also do I remove the EGR valve and fab up a plate?
 
You should be able to drill and tap the holes pretty easily if you plan to run a choke. use the holes in the pull-off as a template. I've never had a choke on anything, winter driven or not. Note: on virtually every carburetor but a square-bore Holley, removing the choke horn and/or plate will cost you airflow. Leave it in place, just fix it open.

If the weight or ugly look means that much to you, you can pull off the EGR valve and make a plate to cover the openings. Use something at least 1/16" thick and a new gasket. The other option is to just leave the EGR valve in place, but disconnected. Cheap and easy, just like my ex-wife.
 
Dr.Jass said:
You should be able to drill and tap the holes pretty easily if you plan to run a choke. use the holes in the pull-off as a template. I've never had a choke on anything, winter driven or not. Note: on virtually every carburetor but a square-bore Holley, removing the choke horn and/or plate will cost you airflow. Leave it in place, just fix it open.

If the weight or ugly look means that much to you, you can pull off the EGR valve and make a plate to cover the openings. Use something at least 1/16" thick and a new gasket. The other option is to just leave the EGR valve in place, but disconnected. Cheap and easy, just like my ex-wife.
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I thought you said she was easy but not cheap as in most ex-wives. :bwuhaha:
 
She was cheap and easy when I dated her, and she was cheap and easy whilst I was married to her... just not with me. She remained cheap and easy to others after we split, but she suddenly became quite expensive and rather complex to me at that point. Take both Os and the second C out of the word "coconut", and anagram it. You'll find her quickly enough.
 
Ok, everythings back from the machine shop. unfortunately the original heads to that 360 needed alot of work so I swapped them out with the J heads off my 340. I had the intake hot tanked and I never paid attention but......on the bank of the intake opposite of the bank with the stand pipe there is another hole that is untapped. It looks like a passage to the egr valve. Should I tap it and plug it or just let it be, considering the egr valve will be blocked off?
 
Use a piece of baling wire to see if it actually goes anywhere. If all it hits is the EGR, I wouldn't worry about it since you're blocking it. However, putting a plug in it might be a good idea if it's a place where fuel could collect and cause a potential disaster in the event of a backfire.

What year intake is this? I'll take a look at my '88 intake and see if it's got what you're discussing. Now, if I can just find it...
 
Dr.Jass said:
Use a piece of baling wire to see if it actually goes anywhere. If all it hits is the EGR, I wouldn't worry about it since you're blocking it. However, putting a plug in it might be a good idea if it's a place where fuel could collect and cause a potential disaster in the event of a backfire.

What year intake is this? I'll take a look at my '88 intake and see if it's got what you're discussing. Now, if I can just find it...
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It's off an 87. It does port over to the EGR it seems.
 
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True, true. I never thought of JB. :doh: Maybe I just like the innuendos of drilling and tapping? :D
 
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