Finally Home...

Try and find a product called "Stop Leak". It works great on all fuel systems. It's a jelly type silicon, but once cured if resistant to all types of fuel.
 
Seal All. It will seal a leak on the bottom of a tank while there's still fuel in the tank, and it costs like $2.69 for a toothpaste-sized tube.
 
I got it somewhat together. I checked the brakes, I need a master cylinder, the front calipers seem ok, but I have 2 right side calipers so I'll swap them with some remans. The right rear wheel cylinder is seeping so I'll replace the pair. Brake hoses are good, been replaced sometime while it was still being driven.

Still need to replace the petcock in the radiator. As well as repairing and flushing the gas tank. I also tossed the seats in for now.


Anyway new pics;

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Man, I don't care what anyone says, the standard '71 Charger taillamps are the sexiest of the breed. Between that and the doors, it's why I prefer the Super Bee to the R/T. Of course, I prefer the SE to either one. I'm not as big a fan of the bulge hood as I once was.
 
TOTALY agree with the bee and SE tail lights

im not sure if the car is ready for a horrar movie...looking for a fight or lost a fight
 
They are growing on me, but if I came across a set of R/T's I'd be really torn, although if I painted them black that might just do it :hmmm: The bulge hood on the other hand is a necessity :dance:

The driver's fender and door have quite a few creases but I have a replacement for each in much better shape. The front valance on the other hand :naughty: I had to beat on it with a piece of 2X4 to get the bolt holes to line up, it looks ok for now, but it too will be replaced. The rear valance looked like it was run over by a convoy of Buffalos... It's now gone :D

I've blown my toy budget for the month :toot: I'll have to figure something else out, but maybe if I'm really good...
 
1971 R/T taillamps are different from '72 Rallye taillamps. Though the lenses are the same as are the bezel castings, the bezels were all painted argent in '71, and were all Organosol black in '72. Though Ma is notorious for changes, I've not seen an exception to this rule. The wiring is different, as well, so since the bulb sockets are non-replaceable I would not suggest cutting wires on a set of really-valuable taillamps. It's also more work to change a bulb in the R/T or Rallye setups, as the whole bezel and lens have to come off the car.

Hit one dog stupid enough to be mid-highway on the blind side of a rise, and both valances are junk.
 
I was thinking about taking the ones I have now apart scuffing them with scotchbrite and painting them satin black. One has a chip and both are pretty weather beat so it's not like they don't need painting. I just don't want to take the rear bumper off again... but I probably will :D

I thought the R/T and Rallye's were the same, I didn't realize the '71's were all argent and the '72's were all black. The cheapest I've seen so far is about $500 for a set that needed restoring. I'm looking for a nice set of '71's or R/T-Rallye's, though they won't go on before the resto is complete.

My dad hit a tricycle with the Challenger before I got it, it trashed the front valance but the K frame flattened it before anything else was damaged. He was on I95 in Philly and it must have fallen of someone's truck into the center lane during rush hour.
 
ah just lay the valance on a 2x4 and start whacking it with a hammer just enuf to take the ugly out....thats where i learned my initial "metal" body work...fixing fish valences not that hard really just time consuming..and if its junk allready..worth giving it a shot
 
Had a thought the other night about the headlight motor. Don't try and test it without the relay...it will cycle too far and destroy the gears....I think? I remember reading something about this some time ago.
 
I think I found the relay under the dash. I picked up the motor is was in a 90(?) LeBaron convert. This is actually the second one I pulled, the first one was locked up and I didn't think to try to turn it manually until it was in my hand :D




I have a question about front brakes, I have disc but what can I use to get one piece front rotors? 73-76 A bodies I think, but what others? F, later B, M bodies?
 
You can't hurt the motor by testing it without the relay. The stops are internal, and both opening and closing functions have internal contact sets operated by cams on the gear that cut power to the motor when full travel is achieved. I learned all about the internal workings of that setup when I was trying to kill that God-forsaken buzzing in the relay.

Use the '73-'76 A-, '73-'74 E-body spindles to get the less-expensive rotors. New ones for your application are unicast (1-piece), but holy balls are they expensive. The cheapest ones I've seen, strangely, are Centric drilled/slotted units. They're about $106 each from rockauto.com. Though the argument rages about using FMJ spindles (they'll bolt into place), personally I'm not a fan of putting a taller spindle in a car. The control arms are no longer in the factory-engineered positions related to each other, which simply has to affect suspension effectiveness. I'm also not crazy about a huge jolt potentially over-angling a ball joint because of change in design. It may never happen; I don't want to be the guy to which it does.
 
Dr.Jass said:
You can't hurt the motor by testing it without the relay. The stops are internal, and both opening and closing functions have internal contact sets operated by cams on the gear that cut power to the motor when full travel is achieved. I learned all about the internal workings of that setup when I was trying to kill that God-forsaken buzzing in the relay.
Click to expand...

I stand corrected.....maybe I mis-understood what I was reading....:silenced:
 
It's actually a pretty ingenious design. The relay is a SPDT unit, and feeds contact points in the motor (they look like distributor points). When the doors are closed, one set of points is closed so when you turn on the headlamps, the motor is fed power through them to open the doors. At full rotation, those points break away from each other and the other set closes. When you turn off the headlamp switch, that other set provides power to rotate the doors closed. Once they are closed, those points open and the others are once again closed for the next time you pull the switch. The only time power is actually running through the motor is when it's moving. Otherwise, there's no draw there.

It's kind of hard to explain until you open one and look for yourself, but when you do you think, "Damn... someone was having a good day, or a really-bad week depending on how long it took him to figure this out." :D
 
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