Duplicolor Chrysler small block red engine paint

TheIronSausage

Two brain cells left.. rubbing together for warmth
Where did it go? I've got manifolds to swap, and engines to match the paint to, but none of the auto parts stores seem to carry it anymore. It's not even on Amazon, they only show the "industrial red". Which is too red.
 
International-Harvester Red, made by Martin Senour is said to be the exact mach for the 60s red. :huh:
 
Is it a red orange? I've heard that before, and I've seen a deep red on Poly 318s, and I think that's the "thirteen letter shit spreader" red. My '63-'68 slants and my '68 318 are definitely a red orange. Even behind brackets and the bellhousings, where they were protected from oil and light. The duplicolor I mentioned above was super close to that color.. About two shades more red than Chevy orange. At any rate, I've got two slant motors in cars, and two 318s that color. Thinking about it, the 273 might have been the cornbinder red.
 
I cannot personally attest to the color match. I'm only a messenger relaying jabber from other Mopar sites. :huh:
 
My 273 is a/or was a red orange color as well. Not sure on the code though. Not even sure what car it came from. But it is in my 65 belvedere and they were both similar colors. Maybe try looking up factory color codes that came with belvederes


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Yeah, I'll have to find something.. I'm not really a stickler for originality, but I don't want to entirely repaint the three engines I plan on swapping heads/manifolds on, nor am I into bare aluminum, or mismatched reds. I just realized I've got five slant six motors and only two are in cars.. I might have to start purging some of this crap I've got laying around.
 
I-H Red is the "accepted" correct red for the late '60s engines. 1968 & early '69 340s are red, and it's (supposedly) the same paint used on the low-perf engines. Oil and light are one thing, but heat fades paint just as quickly.

Problem you run into is with paint batches (suminum batches... my own club!). The colors can vary wildly even though they're the same code, pigment can settle, etc. There's huge variances in engine paint colors even though they're the "same". The only color that's really made of unobtainium is the '69-only 340 blue. It ain't Corporate Blue, and it ain't the customary turquoise of big-blocks, but it faded from close to the former to an approximation of the latter over time. It's somewhere in between, and to date nobody's been able to duplicate it correctly. For that reason, judges accept Corporate Blue as "correct" even though it isn't.

If you decide to go I-H Red (look at my pics in "Signet-ficant Other" but it's definitely a bright red), stay the hell away from Krylon. Horrible, evil stuff. Terrible spray pattern, lays down like you're pissing on the part, and at least half the can will end up as overspray. It's a well-known issue of which even Krylon is aware; our warehouse has literally had hundreds of complaints about Krylon paint.
 
VHT makes a good red still....i think its close to the red/orange your thinking but docs right IH red is "right" and spot on about heat fade duplicolor, vht and..what was the 3rd(not craplon) all 3 are different reds..one of them is useualy VERY close to IH red...whenever i go do an engine i will litteraly pick up one of each reds, test em on a blank chunk of steel and then buy more of what drys right
 
I dunno. I think the slants and LAs were all red-orange from the factory, and the poly 318s were IH red. I think what happened is that some dyed in the wool Mopar "expert" showed up to a car show with his unmolested, survivor 318 Belvedere, and some twit walked by and asked him why his motor was painted Chevy orange. Spurned, Mopar Fanboy goes home, and writes all of his other fanboy friends through his tears to proclaim that IH red is the only correct red for sixties small block Mopars. After fapping off to the Legendary Interiors catalog, he has a fitful sleep. What he's unaware of, is that years down the road his actions have resulted in Duplicolor pulling the only correct red off of the market. This means that if I want to change parts on my engines, I have to mask off the entire engine bay, and repaint them Farm Tool red. Thanks fapping fanboy. Thanks.
 
nope....i pulled an ORIGIANL slanty from a 66 valiant and it was RED RED...the 67 273 i got from a low mile granny dart was also RED RED...both these rigs had less than 40k on them..the dart had just over 20k on it
 
My friend Jack's low-mile '67 Dart GT 273 was a very vivid red, as was the 318 in Kevin's '68 Charger way back in high school. I've seen the orangish red of which you speak, but not nearly as often as I've seen a bright, unmistakable red on original cars either in junkyards or at shows... and I've been to a lot of both, all over the U.S. I just chalked it up to paint-supplier variances, just like not every firewall bolt I've seen on untouched cars having the "correct" head markings but being 100% original to the car.
 
I absolutely believe the both of you. Amazingly, I've got all of the orangey ones here at the house.. that includes a '63 225 and 170, a '64 225, a '68 225, and the '68 318. All very original, and red orange. My truck's '72 318 block is the same color because I had enough of the duplicolor left over to turn it all one color instead of three. So, I plan on changing the heads and intake on it, the heads and intake on my '68 318, and the intake on my '63 Valiant. Gotta re spray each engine to Cornbinder Red because I can't get the Duplicolor. Annoying
 
TBH i think ive only come across 1 orangy block ever and it was a 318 1969....the pan was redred but it faded into orange the higher you got on the block/head...youd swear it had been painted but obviously had never been touched car came from a lil ole lady who hauled FIREWOOD and was the original owner even had old pics of it new....i think i may still have it and its seriously orange but it ran HOT..
 
My (almost) NOS 68 teener. You can argue the color.
 

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That's the color I think Sausage means. I'm well familiar with it, but in my case it seems to be the exception rather than the rule. You say "almost NOS" except it's been run, a lot, in 49 years of existence. It could be original, or it could be faded from what was originally brighter red. It's obviously not as vivid as what's on my 340 parts (which are freshly painted with the IH red). That's the problem when working with half-century-old paint that's been exposed to different conditions that could fade it.

Another thing worth considering is the nature of red pigment. First and foremost, it's the most expensive paint pigment. We're talking the production world, where every penny counts. Call an automotive paint store and ask the prices of a gallon of W1 white and E5 red. The red's probably close to twice as much money. Figure the percent difference and multiply that times a few thousand gallons. Did a paint supplier maybe leave out some red pigment in order to make their contract with Chrysler more profitable? Entirely possible, and it would not surprise me in the least. The other mitigating factor is red's susceptibility to fade. If you're familiar, the expensive "restoration correct" Hemi orange paint sold by some suppliers is slightly more red than what comes out of the Dupli-Color "Chrysler Orange" (their name for Street Hemi orange) can. The air-cleaner orange is redder yet. Why? Because those hypersensitive pricks used extremely low-mile (or in the case of the air-cleaner red, NOS) parts as samples to get their formulae, where Dupli-Color (and others) just used original samples that may have been million-mile desert junkyard parts. The truth of the matter is that there was no such thing as "engine paint" during that time, other than the color itself. There was no special formulation for what got sprayed on a '66 318 block as opposed to what got sprayed on the car's body... it was just a different color. No one cared how well the engine paint endured; it had to look good on the lot and it was going to be oily and covered in grime in a few thousand miles anyhow. No consideration was given to things like colorfastness or adhesion (the latter being nicely illustrated by 68R/T's valve covers, which are pretty typical) so long as the parts weren't rusty on the lot.

Obviously, all of this makes for a good discussion but does nothing to solve SausageFest's dilemma. It's not about correct so much as it is matching what he's got. In that case, the only real solution is to have paint custom-mixed. Any decent automotive paint supplier is going to have a "color camera" that can pull a formula that will be very close to what's on your engines. Get the widest, flattest area you can--probably a valve cover--on which the camera can sit. You could either get it in a pint or quart, or if you want to spend long green, have it made in rattle cans (they're about $25 each here). Expensive? Sorta, but how much are you gonna blow on rattle cans for multiple engine resprays?

You could also try Dupli-Color's Chevrolet Orange-Red (DE1607) to see how close it is. Don't go just by cap color or the online samples, as the color justification of both is off by a mile. Paint is a totally different animal than plastic or pixels.

Ray Barton Racing engines used to spray all their Hemis with Chevy orange because it was less expensive, and "no one notices or cares" in the go-fast world. :dance:
 
Yup, '68's got the color in his Coronet. I'll try the Chevy orange, but if that's way off, I'll just change it to red.. it's darker than the orange red, so it'll cover. Also, next time I swap intakes or heads, I won't have to get more expensive paint mixed up.. I don't put any of my cars into car shows (but I do drive them there), and it doesn't matter to me how correct they are. I'll keep things "factory correct" if I like what the factory did, but none of my cars will be worth less if I don't. Shame though, I like what's on them now. Maybe I'll get lucky and find some in somebody's hoard somewhere..
 
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Just to point out the obvious, a quart of custom-mixed paint you're only using on engines would last approximately forever. It doesn't take much to paint one when you're using proper spray equipment. Aerosol cans are a huge waste of material, which is a shame because they're so damned convenient.
 
not to mention a single can will only cover a THIN coat of 9sqf or 3x3 square.....rattle cans are the single biggest waste of money....yet we still use engine paint out of em
 
Yep, I totally understand the drawbacks of rattle cans. However, they fit in small places in engine bays, and they spray in almost any direction when full.. I've got access to a gravity gun, and a bottom feeder, and hate using them both.. the cleanup takes longer than the fun part. Also, let's face it. It's a motor. It's going to be oily, it's going to collect junk in the gullets of the intake, and I'm going to drive it. Guaranteed it's going to leak something on the paint.. I don't normally touch them up, they're just working air pumps after all. However, should a big chunk peel off, I'd rather go downstairs and grab a rattle can than go through the process of finding, mixing, thinning, filtering, spraying, and cleaning a spray gun. Nevermind having to deal with an air hose on a spray gun in an engine bay
 

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