dont mind me while i bang my head on table

Farm gasoline in the U.S. has been ethanol-infused (E5-E10) for years, and the diesel almost invariably has some bio in it, both of which are terrible on their respective fuel systems. In diesels, they can run up to 20 percent bio content without telling you.

DCF, the laws you posted have absolutely nothing to do with that website. That website is unregulated by any law and works totally on the honor system. Unless it's certified "Ethanol Free" right on the pump you're using, chances are it's got "corn gas" in it. Even with the decal, it still may. Maybe things are different in Canada, but in the U.S. the station rarely does any blending whatsoever--what comes out of the tanker is dispensed directly into your car or truck. I've worked in fuel stations on multiple occasions, and I've never done anything but "stick the tanks" to check for water content. The tankers are separated into compartments for various grades, but when they're filled it all comes down the same pipe. How much residual premium is in the 87, or vice-versa? It's a negligible amount not worth consideration.

We had a nice conversation with the WI State "fuel pump cop". WI has a total of two or three technicians for the whole state. He admitted that he's stretched so thin there are tanks he's not tested in years, either for pump accuracy or fuel content. Believe me, fuel quality is far more critical in a diesel than in a gasoline engine... but he just doesn't have enough time in a year to hit every station he's assigned, much less all their pumps for accuracy or send samples in for analysis. His suggestion: if you want to know for sure, have it tested yourself by an independent lab. It's not difficult nor is it particularly expensive, and it's the only way you'll really know what's in that station's tanks. As far as the decals on the pumps? "A lot of these stations don't even know they've got ethanol now, and even if they were made aware I highly doubt it occurred to them to go out and peel the stickers off."

So yes, there are laws in place. They're every bit as stringent here as they are up there--but when was the last time they were actually checked, much less enforced? Writing a law is easy, enforcing it isn't. There's no money in it for the government, so they don't pursue it much. The fuel business is a cut-throat deal; if you're two cents higher per gallon you've got a ghost town in your lot. The fastest, easiest way to increase profit margin is to go with a lesser product. If Station A is selling E10 and Station B says they're selling corn-free product at the same price or within a couple of pennies, chances are Station B is bullshitting. As I mentioned, the Cenex station in Spread Eagle, WI is guaranteed ethanol-free, and they're about 30-35 cents more per gallon on their 87 octane than anywhere else. Location is part of it, yes, but there's another station next door with pricing pretty consistent with everyone else. Both stations are in an area with an enormous boating community, so it makes even more of a difference there (E10 in a marine environment is pure hell).

When servicing your fuel system, look for parts that are rated for E85 if you want to be totally safe. If you don't want to run out of gas looking for an ethanol-free pump while on vacation in your carbureted vehicle, then make the mods I describe above and use a marine-rated additive every time you get fuel. Either that, or live with a car that neither starts and runs all that well nor performs up to its design potential.
 
Yeah. I didn't mean to connect the pure gas site with the law.

and you're right. You never are 100% sure what you're getting.
the law really just states HOW to arrive at the AVERAGE that is mandated by law.
It DOES allow for non-ethanol blended gasoline though. Which is contrary to what most people think the law is about: "Every grade of gasoline must have at least 5%ethanol in it."

THAT's just not true.
That said, as I eluded to with the "where available" comment, it still doesn't mean that you're guaranteed ethanol free gasoline.
 
Yep. It's a slippery slope, and as I mentioned way back up yonder just because it's ethanol-free does not by any means make it "good" gasoline. The only way you're going to get that, truth be known, is to buy your own 55-gallon drum of racing fuel or do your fill-ups at the airport (which isn't really advisable for other reasons).
 
okay now back on topic.

I have the fuel lines wrapped then got looking at the six pack base plate and seeing how it traps hot air under the base plate soaking the fuel line with heat. I debated on torching off the extra metal so the heat could rise away instead of circulating around the fuel lines.

I tinkered with the carbs again tonight and the first time it idled and the temp made it up to 190 degrees and held constant there. The engine started to sputter some and died so i richened up the center carb a bit more and then let her idle for another 30 minutes or so and it did not sputter and die the last time.
So we will see what we have.

Also i do not have a choke hooked up on the carbs since i do not have all the parts for one yet.:toot:

I have all the carbs tinkered back to the baseline and worked my way back up again. So the plan is to take her for a drive to work the rest of the week if the rain co-operates.:helpme:
 
You should be setting your idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge. It's the only accurate way to set them.

As far as the baseplate causing misery, don't even think about it. That's the least of your problems. I drove a Six Pack without issue in Atlanta for two summers with the stock baseplate and never had an issue--and I didn't have a bypass regulator either.
 
Six Pack carbs have a bowl vent, which should keep the carb from vapor locking when parked. However, ethanol-free or not, today's fuel is garbage compared to years past. You simply cannot get good ol' gasoline anymore; today's unleaded is a mad-scientist potion of additives (reformulations) to reduce emissions whether it has ethanol in it or not.

I've said it time and again, use an ethanol-elimination additive marked "Marine" all the time. I prefer Marine Sta-Bil, based on actual customer experience. Stretch likes Star-brite, but I'm not sure if that's marine-rated or not. There are tons of carbureted boats out there, and they react particularly badly to today's fuels, as do small engines. The golf course where I used to work runs nothing but the Sta-Bil and downtime due to fuel-system issues has been decreased by 75% or more (almost 100% on two-stroke weed whackers).

If you are not using a choke, or are using a carb with an electric choke, block the heat crossover in the intake manifold. Even an aluminum intake will hold heat under the carburetor for a very long time; obviously cast iron is much worse.

An electric fuel pump is only truly effective against vapor lock in a return-type system and works best with a bypass. Simply put, your fuel system goes: tank (with strainer), pump, filter, carb(s), regulator, return line. Don't use one of those shitty "dial-a-pressure" regulators; the failure rate on them is about 99.7% in my experience selling them. Your standard Holley (or copy) three-port is the best option. It's best to mount it higher than the carb inlets, but it's not necessary. After the fuel line has fed the carb(s), you want to run it to the inlet of the regulator, which is generally on the bottom. On one output, mount a gauge for adjusting your fuel pressure--no more than 5 on a Carter/Edeljunk and no more than 7 on a Holley (I use 4.5 and 5 respectively with excellent results). The gauge should dead-head that port; no fuel should flow past it.

On the other output, you want to put a fitting for a return line to the tank, but you must modify the fitting first. You want to know what size your needle and seat openings are, and how many of them you have. On a Holley, let's assume you have a .110" opening on the center carb... it matters; you need to know what's in there. Since the Six Pack setup only uses 1 needle valve about 90% of the time, you only need to be a little smaller than the valve diameter; in this case I'd say ~.090"-.100" would be good.

Have a multiple-needle carb, like a ThermoQuad, that uses both float bowls all the time? Now you have to do some math. Let's assume the same needle valve opening (again, you need to chec this). Calculate the area of the opening, which is done with the equation 3.1416 x radius x radius, in this case the radius being .055". That gives us .0095 square inches, and since we have two of them the total area of both is then 2 x .0095"², or .0190"². Now, you need to reverse-engineer that into a slightly-smaller opening than both valves. Easy enough to do: Divide .0190 by 3.1416 and you get .006048. Find the square root of that (you're gonna want a calculator with that key on it), which is .0778. That's your radius, so multiply by two to get a metered diameter of .1556. Remember, though, we want to be a little smaller, so you'll want a drill size probably in the range of .140"-.150".

Now that you know what size you need--assuming a .110" needle-valve opening--make your return fitting by finding a hose barb or inverted-flare seat (depending on how you plan to hook up the return line) that will fit in the remaining output port of the regulator. Before you install it, though, fill it with solder so that it's now a plug. Then take a drill bit of the appropriate size, which may require a pin vise, and drill your metered orifice. Clean it out well, install it in the regulator and connect it to your return line.

The reason you want a smaller metered orifice is so that the fuel will be more likely to flow into the carbs than back to the tank when the float(s) opens. The rest of the time, the fuel recirculates to the tank. There is more than one benefit to this, the first being that your pump doesn't work as hard pushing against a closed valve. Expect increased pump life, and in the case of a "screaming Mimi" Holley electric expect it to be maybe half as loud if not less. Another advantage is that you always have fresh, cooler fuel at the needle valve... and cooler fuel doesn't evaporate as easily. Oh, yeah, under full throttle it also makes more power by helping cool the intake charge. Pressurized fuel won't evaporate in the lines, either, which is why an electric pump mounted near the tank is recommended, preferably at or below the level of the bottom of the tank. Recirculated fuel flowing into an open area of the tank is also more likely to let the refined-in contaminants evaporate out (ethanol, for example). The car will start more quickly, too, since the float bowls will be filled within a second or two of turning the key to IGN ON, probably by the time you get to the START position. You will always have solid fuel in the lines--by design this system will push vapor through the system initially and not allow for any more in there.

Don't have a return line on your car? Install one. If there's nowhere to put on on the tank, you can install one in the filler neck pretty easily with a piece of metal brake line, a drill, a punch, and either solder or J-B Weld (remove the filler neck for this process).

This sounds like a lot of work, but it's the most-effective way to get absolutely reliable performance with crap fuel on a carbureted engine. The best additive in the world won't solve it alone. The math seems kinda difficult written out, but if you can calculate the displacement of an engine you've already done it. It's the calculation for volume of one cylinder, but you leave out the stroke part of the equation: πr² (pi times the radius times the radius) of your needle valve's opening(s). Multiply the result by the number of openings, then divide the result by pi, square-root the number you get and that's your radius. Multiply that times two and you have the single-opening size equivalent to your fuel inlets. Subract about .005"-.020" and there's your drill size--shoot for a number that's easily found.

I've typed this out at least three times now, but no one ever seems to actually do it. Want it fixed? Do it.

By the way, Petro is notorious in the U.S. for having absolute shit fuel, particularly their diesel--which is their stock in trade. Think about that.

Thanks again for typing all that out Doc. I have saved it to a text file so i can cruise it when needed.;)

I have also started using the Marine Sta-bile stuff. Although I have not been able to find it in any great quantities yet...just the little 10oz squeeze and measure bottle.

I recently fired up Ol' Fernando. I had used the above mention fuel stabilizer, and the car fired right up with no issues. Even after sitting for over 18 months. :)
 
You should be setting your idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge. It's the only accurate way to set them.

As far as the baseplate causing misery, don't even think about it. That's the least of your problems. I drove a Six Pack without issue in Atlanta for two summers with the stock baseplate and never had an issue--and I didn't have a bypass regulator either.

wasnt that before the fuel changed over to being mostly garbage tho......
 
No, they already had ethanol and reformulated gas in large cities way back then... we were well into Al Gore's reign of environmental terror by '96. :doh: The fuel here was still better, since they really only concentrated on population centers at the time: LA, Chicago, New Yawk, Atlanta, Dallas, etc.
 
yeah i was going to say...i was still buying genuine "regular" gasoline from select stations in town still at that time..by 97/98 it was alllllll gone..dont think i actualy felt the effects of the bad stuff till round 02 or so and been cussin ever since
 

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