Bondo, oh Bondo, wherefore art thou Bondo?

Cleaning skin with lacquer thinner is not a good practice. A former-bodyman friend of mine used to say, "30 through the skin, 20 to the brain" regarding the number of seconds it takes trace amounts of lacquer thinner to go from your hands to your head when washing with it. Food for thought.
 
True enough. Minute particles do enter the blood stream, making their way to the brain.
But, the worst damage by far from solvent absorption is to the liver. No joke. Any solvent absorbed through the skin does immediate damage to the liver, and it's irreversible.

I've got the liver profile numbers to prove it. :(

I've seen a lot of brain dead body shop guys still on the job, but once the liver is gone, you're toast! :)
 
POR 15... :(
I know it's hugely popular with the do-it-yourself-crowd, but I have zero use for it.
For the amount of effort and different products required to do a thorough job, there are better products available.
I'm not at all sold on it's adhesion abilities or it's rust preventative capabilities, and getting REAL primer or paint to adhere to it for any length of time is fucking near impossible. Unless, of course, you buy more of their products.
I've removed more of that shit from cars than I care to remember.

I'll stick with automotive epoxy primer over clean, bare steel everyday, thank you very much. :)

My two cents worth, for what it's worth.
 
I'm always a bit paranoid getting too much crap on my skin, considering it is just another of the body's organs. Would rather just let it disappear over the next forty years and have people look at me like I don't clean up at all :P

And I must say I'm a bit relieved you're not a fan for those reasons. I was half worried you had worse experiences with it than not coating at all. Kits all just an experiment, and my car will be black, so there's points there :)
 
I used a product called "Chassis Saver" from Magnet Paints. The stuff is tougher than POR-15 and easier to use, but if the metal is not mechanically etched (blasted, wire-wheeled, etc.), it will flake off in sheets, just like POR-15 will. I found that out the hard way... because I didn't read the can. :doh: They also don't have 900 million products you need to buy from them to use it; however when applying paint over Chassis Saver, it does have to be sanded first. It does not particularly like to be sanded. :D
 
That's one of the nice things about epoxy primer - it sticks to anything and everything.
It can be sprayed, rolled, brushed or poured if one wishes, and just needs a scuff with a Scotchbrite before topcoating with whatever you choose if left for more than three days or so. Bare steel, sound painted & sanded surfaces, old primer, filler, even lacquer paint are suitable substrates.
The only drawback is it's usually only available by the gallon. It keeps forever if sealed tight and not frozen, just stir it or flip the can over once in a while and you're good to go.

And, compatability with just about anything one wants to put over it is not an issue. Paint costs way too much money to have to deal with issues one finds when using stuff like POR 15.
Do it right, do it once.
 
i do love epoxy primer!....i will say this...the eastwood version of por15 takes paint unlike por....funny they call it chassy saver i think....
 
No, their stuff is just called "Chassis Black". It might be relabeled Chassis Saver, but I don't know as I've never used the Eastwood stuff.
 
Not sure... I've been getting Eastwood catalogs since 1996, and I've never seen anything called "Chassis Saver" in there. They were big pushers of POR-15 way back.
 
I've been leary of using POR-15 myself. I just don't trust how well it will "actually" seal up the existing rust. If there is any little hole that allows water underneath your screwed. You metal will just rust out from under the nice hard POR-15.

Thanks for that info about the Epoxy Primer Resto...I will grab some next time I'm doing some work....I have a tailgate, and then a whole truck I have to paint. ;)
 
That stuff went on very nicely. I like the product and havent read reviews about people having rusting issues after using it. So long as it is done correctly, there shouldn't be any spots that water can get through to the metal. Only way I can think that it continues rusting underneath is if it was applied over one layer of rust that has layers of rust underneath it. The water sure won't be getting in there anymore, though. If it covers the metal it should work...if it doesnt, well, couldn't expect it to work that way.
 
But that is the problem...NOTHING...is truly water tight! Water can, and will, get in somewhere. And once it's sealed up with that hard coating there is no way to know until the area is totally fubar'd. This is just my personal paranoia...so tell me to F'off if I stay too long on my soap box. ;) :D

I hope it works for you though...:2thumbs:
 
thats EXACTLY my fear as well...but i had a customer who wanted everything damn neer dipped in one product or another....inside the rails a and b pillars roof channels..EVERYWHERE...we used eastwood..at one point the car sat outside for 4 months thru the weather with NO ROOF as the body shop was working on a new roof..later we found the car back out in teh weather for 2 months+ basicaly all winter...there was ice pools in the floor wells...a couple years later i cut the floor in the car to put in rail connectors..grinding that stuff off wasnt even easy.....am i sold on the stuff..yeah...but only for areas youll NEVER see..the areas that you cant always prep good and that you pretty well just hose something in

in the end tho..is any of the 2 products any worse than bedliner? or factory undercoated cars(tho that stuff had a habit of melting around headers, chipping and falling off etc)...that certainly would hold water under it too......
 
Chemically speaking, those chassis treatments work very well in bonding to metal. I'm not a big fan of POR-15, but the Chassis Saver has me sold. I've sold tons of it (incluing to professional body shops). Nothing but rave review for years. I have a fender for the LeBaron that's coated with Chassis Saver. It's been sitting outside for two years, and other than the fact that the gloss black has turned into a very-dark flat gray, since it's in direct sunlight every day, but the metal has not degraded at all. It definitely has its quirks, though. The metal must have an etch for it to stick, and like 69.5CUDA said, once it's cured it's a bastard to grind. It will not hold primer or topcoats without being scuffed first, and that's not easy.

As far as bonding to metal, the Chassis Saver is incredible. We had demonstrator panels painted with it, and it took a hammer and screwdriver to even scratch the stuff. We folded it back on itself in a vise, making a perfectly-flat fold. It didn't damage the finish whatsoever. It will literally weld two pieces of metal together; good luck separating them. I have a feeling the stuff 69.5 is using is very similar, if not relabeled Chassis Saver with an Eastwood label.
 
Prices between chassis saver and por 15 seem to be the same. I don't expect to paint anything that will be overly exposed with the stuff...just want to get the spots like that trunk rail with it to prevent any rust from occurring in the future. I plan to use it in other spots, too, but nowhere that will be seen all the time.
 
Mwahahahah! This is how you remove crappy headers without pulling the motor!

20130215_164740_zpsabc2fe17.jpg


a little bit of madness, mixed with laziness and frustration, plus a bunch of why the hell not :D
 
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