69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
did you not buy the parts?.....clearly it was a cheep POS not cabable of hanging with a mopar
1967 dart
- Thread starter dodgedifferent2
- Start date
did you not buy the parts?.....clearly it was a cheep POS not cabable of hanging with a mopar
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
no the engine followed the car when i got it. Not sure who rebuilt it
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
This may only be a preview of what is yet to come. :hmmm:
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
no kidding...i think id be double chekcing EVERYTHING
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
DD2, if that's my old 340, I'm pretty sure that chain and gear set has only the miles the previous owner put on - I'd be guessing less than 500. We both know the previous owner, so I doubt he cheaped out on parts...
Machine work was done by a reputable guy near my old shop. It wasn't cheap and he does good work. PM me if you need his info.
Assembly... well, at the time I thought he was a friend, but things have changed in that department so it might be a good idea to double check things.
That sucks.
Machine work was done by a reputable guy near my old shop. It wasn't cheap and he does good work. PM me if you need his info.
Assembly... well, at the time I thought he was a friend, but things have changed in that department so it might be a good idea to double check things.
That sucks.
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
yes i am going to pull the heads and take a look around inside and hope the valves and pushrods did not bend :hmmm:
could there be damage on the piston? i did spin the engine over with the starter :hmmm:
I pulled the intake tonight and took a quick peek at the pushrods and slowly turned the camshaft and do not see anything major on the pushrods:hmmm: but a small bend may not be visible with my crooked eyes?
should i pull the heads and bring them to the local engine shop to go over them?:hmmm:
could there be damage on the piston? i did spin the engine over with the starter :hmmm:
I pulled the intake tonight and took a quick peek at the pushrods and slowly turned the camshaft and do not see anything major on the pushrods:hmmm: but a small bend may not be visible with my crooked eyes?
should i pull the heads and bring them to the local engine shop to go over them?:hmmm:
69dart340
Well-known member
I'd personally question everything that went into that build. If the guy used substandard parts one place, what's to say he didn't in others. And I have to agree, I have never seen a timing gear break like that!
Have a younger friend that bought a 383 that had been "rebuilt". I suggeseted he take it apart just to make sure everything had been done. He didn't take the advice and proceeded to take out not one, not two, but three cams in that engine!! Faulty oil pump was to blame, something a simple inspection would have caught. Suggested he should wreck one more cam so he had enough legs for a coffee table!
Have a younger friend that bought a 383 that had been "rebuilt". I suggeseted he take it apart just to make sure everything had been done. He didn't take the advice and proceeded to take out not one, not two, but three cams in that engine!! Faulty oil pump was to blame, something a simple inspection would have caught. Suggested he should wreck one more cam so he had enough legs for a coffee table!
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
Yes.
Might also be a very good idea to tear down the whole thing and have it gone over... better safe than sorry.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
If the guy that had the engine built wasn't afraid to spend money, it's very possible that the person who built it charged him for good parts and installed lesser-quality stuff.
Now, before you start ripping things to shreds over what could turn out to be something coincidental, I would suggest using a jeweler's loupe or good magnifier to inspect the cam gear very closely along the break line. It's very possible that it was a perfectly-good brand of timing set and one got through with a casting flaw. It happens. Look for any casting voids or something that looks like a grain of sand. If you find anything, and I do mean anything that looks remotely suspicious, I would suggest replacing the timing set and continuing. If you do not and it's a totally clean break, it's teardown time for sure.
If you do find a problem in the gear casting, replace the timing set, line up the gears correctly (you don't have to degree it yet) and then do a compression or leakdown test. If it passes, go back and degree the cam and run it. If not, well, now you have some Scooby Doo work on your hands.
Now, before you start ripping things to shreds over what could turn out to be something coincidental, I would suggest using a jeweler's loupe or good magnifier to inspect the cam gear very closely along the break line. It's very possible that it was a perfectly-good brand of timing set and one got through with a casting flaw. It happens. Look for any casting voids or something that looks like a grain of sand. If you find anything, and I do mean anything that looks remotely suspicious, I would suggest replacing the timing set and continuing. If you do not and it's a totally clean break, it's teardown time for sure.
If you do find a problem in the gear casting, replace the timing set, line up the gears correctly (you don't have to degree it yet) and then do a compression or leakdown test. If it passes, go back and degree the cam and run it. If not, well, now you have some Scooby Doo work on your hands.
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
ya i pulled the intake and looked at the camshaft tonight and pulled the rockers and have the pushrods in my hands now and planning to check them tomorrow at work.
I plan to pull the pan no matter what because i know there are some shavings in that pan cause i seen some small particles when i pulled the timing cover.
Planning to pull off the heads since i have replacement gaskets coming (should arrive tomorrow)
Then i will have that piece of mind that the piston is not screwed up and i can then look to see if any burrs on the valves while i am in there.
how can i check the valves to see if bent? by myself? is it a simple task?
Thinking i could chuck them up in the lathe at work and spin them to see if there is a wobble?
I plan to pull the pan no matter what because i know there are some shavings in that pan cause i seen some small particles when i pulled the timing cover.
Planning to pull off the heads since i have replacement gaskets coming (should arrive tomorrow)
Then i will have that piece of mind that the piston is not screwed up and i can then look to see if any burrs on the valves while i am in there.
how can i check the valves to see if bent? by myself? is it a simple task?
Thinking i could chuck them up in the lathe at work and spin them to see if there is a wobble?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Yeah, chucking them in a lathe would work. You could also roll them on a piece of glass on a table's edge (so the head can hang over the side) which will show you if the stems are bent, and you'd see wobble in the head if it's bent past the edge of the glass. If you have a piece of glass, obviously, you can do this at home, and do the same with the pushrods. Glass is the best way to do it as it's a guaranteed flat surface; metal or wood can give "false positive" tests for bending.
I don't know if I'd yank the valves just yet, though. See if they're all seated, and if there's no marking on the piston tops don't sweat it. A steel valve will definitely leave a mark in an aluminum piston before the valve bends. It takes a lot of force, especially with 3/8" stems. Marks on the pistons? Get a set of rod bearings while you're at it. They may be fine, they may not. How do you want to find out for sure? :doh:
I don't know if I'd yank the valves just yet, though. See if they're all seated, and if there's no marking on the piston tops don't sweat it. A steel valve will definitely leave a mark in an aluminum piston before the valve bends. It takes a lot of force, especially with 3/8" stems. Marks on the pistons? Get a set of rod bearings while you're at it. They may be fine, they may not. How do you want to find out for sure? :doh:
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
i have a surface table at work so thats what i am using as a flat surface.
Planning to pull the heads and then see if i can compress the valves and if they seat again then they should be fine.
Planning to pull the heads and then see if i can compress the valves and if they seat again then they should be fine.
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
Ok if i get this far this weekend (unlikely)
but i will have to realign the camshaft. P4120231AC
i dont have the cam card or a degree wheel
#1 cylinder will be at tdc
I have the comp cams 2103 timing set (gear and chain) (this image looks to be for a 3 bolt cam)
the three keyways, which one do i choose? The old sprocket i believe was set on 4 degrees (i will have to double check that because i never removed the sprocket from the crank for fear of screwing up timing)
do i just align the dots and hope for the best?
but i will have to realign the camshaft. P4120231AC
i dont have the cam card or a degree wheel
#1 cylinder will be at tdc
I have the comp cams 2103 timing set (gear and chain) (this image looks to be for a 3 bolt cam)
the three keyways, which one do i choose? The old sprocket i believe was set on 4 degrees (i will have to double check that because i never removed the sprocket from the crank for fear of screwing up timing)
do i just align the dots and hope for the best?
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
The only thing I can think of that would break that cam gear is that something went through it. Like a bolt or a nut or something. Perhaps between the cam gear and the cam retaining plate. Do the parts show any damage from something like that?
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
A strong possibility is that it was somehow damaged during installation. :hmmm:
dodgedifferent2
hung like a stud field mouse and
well as i was digging last night i did find about a half an inch of a bolt in the oil pan. When i pulled the water pump off the timing cover the one bolt looked like it had been sheared off.
My belief is that the water pump bolt must have been too long and when installed it possibly cracked the sprocket. When i cranked it over it must have finished off the sprocket and let her explode. The sprocket does have an mp # so i assume it was a mopar performance timing chain. I just installed a comp cams timing chain last night
I made it further then i had expected because a friend watched my daughter for me last night (they had a popcorn and Frozen party). I seen that movie about 1000 times since i got it just before easter. (starts singing some of the songs) http://youtu.be/UFatVn1hP3o
So i had the oil pan pulled off, checked the oil pump and cleaned and reinstalled the oil pan.
Lined up the timing chain to stock position, put cover on and installed the water pump (double checking the bolt lengths) Installed the pushrods and rockers and stopped there because i looked at the clock and it was 1 am and didnt have my small torque wrench at home and i couldnt torque the rocker bolts down. I stopped there and over the next week i can slowly install parts till next weekend when i will have a full weekend to wrench again.
My belief is that the water pump bolt must have been too long and when installed it possibly cracked the sprocket. When i cranked it over it must have finished off the sprocket and let her explode. The sprocket does have an mp # so i assume it was a mopar performance timing chain. I just installed a comp cams timing chain last night
I made it further then i had expected because a friend watched my daughter for me last night (they had a popcorn and Frozen party). I seen that movie about 1000 times since i got it just before easter. (starts singing some of the songs) http://youtu.be/UFatVn1hP3o
So i had the oil pan pulled off, checked the oil pump and cleaned and reinstalled the oil pan.
Lined up the timing chain to stock position, put cover on and installed the water pump (double checking the bolt lengths) Installed the pushrods and rockers and stopped there because i looked at the clock and it was 1 am and didnt have my small torque wrench at home and i couldnt torque the rocker bolts down. I stopped there and over the next week i can slowly install parts till next weekend when i will have a full weekend to wrench again.
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