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Uncle Tony did an episode a while back about all the cam/lifter issues. A big part of the problem, according to him, NO ONE is remanning lifters. The only thing out there is "rebuilt" lifters. The problem arises if you take a worn part and re-machine it, the tolerances create a looser fit...

I'll have to look through my collection.

If/when you get to carb jetting, work with the needles only. I doubt that your A/F ratio is very far from ideal.

My experience with flex-fans has not always been positive.

As gas volume depletes something has to replace that area.

Definitely sounds like airflow issue.

Have done that in the past, and yes, it works. The smallest drill bit you have is allit needs.

"Vapor lock" is a whole different thing. Back in those days gas was formulated much different and carburators were vented, allowing vaporized fuel to escape. The car would absorb engine heat and "boil" the gas. Many times a simple fix was to wrap the line from pump-to-carb with aluminum foil...

It says "vented", so give it a shot. The part "protruding down" is probably the vent valve.

Work with the needles & springs first. You're thinking too far ahead. A cold engine wants a richer mixture and a warmed engine wants leaner mixture. Thinner needles richen the mixture and thicker lean it. Stronger springs richen it sooner and weaker keep it lean longer. And lastly, as the...

This just may be your key to the solution.

The correct name of those screws are "Idle air bleed screws". Most think that they control fuel flow at idle, but they do exactly the oppisite. If it still runs with them all the way in it's getting air bleed. If there are no obvious vacuum leaks the only other thing could be that the idle speed...

Easy solution, but not always easy to find a vented cap that fits. You may be better off putting a small inline filter on one of the capped off lines and let it breathe. The port you want for your vacuum advance is the one circled in red......

You should NOT be building vacuum in the gas tank. You gas tank has 3 fittings, correct? Fuel line, return line and a vent tube. Cars from that era usually have a vented gas cap also.

As for dying at idle, it's either starving for fuel or flooding. DO NOT drill throttle plates until you know for sure which it is. And idle passage fuel mixture is controlled by the idle jets. If it's starving richen the setting and compensate idle speed with the idle speed screw. Without an o2...

Plus I would say that your oil pressure is now within acceptable range. If you're idling 700-800 in gear with 10 psi of oil -- no sweat. remember the old rule of thumb, 10 psi for every 1,000 of rpm.

1) Melling is a good brand name. Rock Auto, -- could be, or maybe...? 2) Never heard one referred to as "high velocity". Either "high pressure" or "high volume". You want "high volume" 3) Rear main can be changed without pulling trans.

A new oil pump "could" help, or maybe not. Low oil pressure can be caused by many things, worn oil pump, restrictive filter, thin oil, worn bearings of which cam bearings seem the most overlooked. I would start with the cheapest & easiest solution first, which you are doing. New filter & heavier...

True dat. Corporate greed is the basis for many of the issues that face us "lower beings" whose sole purpose to them is to feed their greed. This greed is perpetrated by upper echelon of too many corporations that have grown to near monopoly.

It will be nice to have parts made in the USA instead of the garbage coming from China.