Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Parts geek has a vented gas cap, looks like mine but has something protruding down the middle mine does not have? motorad # 16641-05842187
Like 5 bucks, I guess cheap enough to try it?
 
Holy crap, went to order the cap & it does not come up on their website, it was friggen there the other day, gonna call em tomorrow.
They do show a locking one for 3x the price, I don't need a locking unit!!!

So doing some mulling over how to approach this thing when the carb kit gets here.
First thing I'm fighting is not even knowing if my idle screw is pushing it past the circuit, must somehow get it down to that circuit to do anything.

So timing is at 10BTDC, will bringing that up a bit speed up the idle so I can back off the screw?

Also so hit me that maybe the gas tank vac is what's causing the dying out after 20or so min. drives,
I had a 66 gto that used to vapor lock on me back in the day, but that wouldn't restart without priming the carb, this one just starts right back up again.

I'm so cornfused!
 
I had a 66 gto that used to vapor lock on me back in the day, but that wouldn't restart without priming the carb, this one just starts right back up again.

I'm so cornfused!
"Vapor lock" is a whole different thing. Back in those days gas was formulated much different and carburators were vented, allowing vaporized fuel to escape. The car would absorb engine heat and "boil" the gas. Many times a simple fix was to wrap the line from pump-to-carb with aluminum foil. With yours I would opine that being that your fuel system is non-vented you are creating a vacuum in the tank, starving the fuel pump & carb. This would be another problem solved by installing the vapor-separator/filter with a return line like previously described.
 
"Vapor lock"

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If you know, you know :ROFLMAO:

My Duster was missing all the fuel tank and vent parts including the right cap so I went with a vented cap and eliminated all the unneeded stuff. That cap was pricey because it's a duster so not hidden under the license plate.

Could you just drill a small hole in the cap?
 
Locking cap is not that n big a deal, like 17 bucks, the other was 5, gonna call them later & see why the cheap one dissapeared?
If it's no longer available I'll just get the locking one.
 
Was thinking after the next drive when I get in the driveway just open the cap & first see if it sucks my hand off & if so let it idle after I give it a breath of fresh air & see if it still dies out?
 
Called parts gek, that guy said the # I gave is for a 71, won't cross over
Got another guy on their chat, also 71 won't go, so I went ahead & ordered the locking one, & that dang thing says 71 to74 , how could that be!
 
Gonna bite the bullet & try a drive today, just waiting on the parts now anyway.
In the meantime my darn PU started draining the battery again, I think it's about a year since I had the wiper motor changed & it was good all winter cept for I time I just let it sit too long.
Good thing Mark gave me his jumper pack, at least I don't have to put my little charger & wait.
 
Todays drive actually went well, didn't touch anything before I left.
Oil press. seems ok now, holding around 40 at 45MPH, around 30 at 25MPH, didn't feel like it was going to stall at stops & oil dropped around 10 on the stops.
Pulled the gas tank cap when I got home, no gulp for air today?
So this dummy is looking at the old charcoal canister, that line up the inner fender goes back to that funky little tank in front of the gas tank, goes in the top back there & then there's 4 tubes out the bottom of that that hook up to the gas tank, all you can see in the tank is a bunch of tubes running around, don't know but I would think one has to be open in there?
Sooooooooo charcoal canister is open at the bottom, the other 2 ports at the top are plugged, should not that be a source of air to the tank? 20250430_135807.jpg20250430_135828.jpg
 
Also thinking of putting back the factory oil sensor, I know the new one is working right at 20, I'm hoping the old is set for 7 or 8 so it doesn't light up at every stop, that will be a problem when the time comes to sell the car!

Having the gauge to read I don't have to worry about the light coming on after the motor seized?
 
I don't know how those little tanks & lines in the gas tank work, but if it was a vapor return it would have to be open at some point in the tank.
Gonna blow air thru that line on the charcoal canister & see if air comes out the bottom.
Now all this hopefully will be a mute point when the vented cap gets here but dang that system should have let air back in .
 

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