Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Checked my gun, goes to 250' lbs, I gave it 2 or 3 short bursts, I did find bolts to try that method, but I'd bet I'm already over the 90

The only raw piece on there is the balancer, should I shoot some paint on it, I'd like black, but I may just clear it to avoid taping everything off again!

Back to the jute for the trunk divider, do I just let it hang or glue it to the back of the divider?
 
checked my gun, 250;lbs, I did find a couple of bolts to try that method, but I'd bet I'm already over 90.

68R/T, I boxed up those hangers, should get em in the mail in a couple of days!
 
The only raw piece on there is the balancer, should I shoot some paint on it, I'd like black, but I may just clear it to avoid taping everything off again!
The engine was painted in the factory with the balancer installed. So black or raw would be incorrect. But I'm just a "numbers" type weirdo.:geek:
 
The only raw piece on there is the balancer, should I shoot some paint on it, I'd like black, but I may just clear it to avoid taping everything off again!
You may as well clear it to at least give it a little protection.

The engine was painted in the factory with the balancer installed. So black or raw would be incorrect. But I'm just a "numbers" type weirdo.:geek:
His timing cover is clear-coated aluminum and all his bolt heads are painted black, so at this point "correct" is out the window.

Back to the jute for the trunk divider, do I just let it hang or glue it to the back of the divider?
I'd glue it. Use spray adhesive on both surfaces and let it tack before you put them together.

Mine came already glued... :unsure:
 
this car is so far off "correct" it probably wouldn't help.
I'm after neat, clean & showing the details the factory painted over!
 
glue it on! Good something I can do in the garage if the rain doesn't clear out.

I was looking at bolts & brackets for up front there, damn I took 10,000 pics & off those I got the location of 2, I think I'm good on the steering pump, got half the alrernator figured , I'll pull the old A/c compressor tomorrow & see if I can make heads or tails of that, I went through the book, they really don't get into mounting brackets much?
 
My balancers are usually painted black too, after I've removed them once. I know they *should* be the same color as the motor, but oh well.
 
I was looking at bolts & brackets for up front there, damn I took 10,000 pics & off those I got the location of 2, I think I'm good on the steering pump, got half the alrernator figured , I'll pull the old A/c compressor tomorrow & see if I can make heads or tails of that, I went through the book, they really don't get into mounting brackets much?
One of the downsides of the FSM is that they assume you're starting with an assembled car, which a mechanic would've been. It's far from an assembly guide. The illustrations in the parts books are much better for that, however they don't necessarily provide bolt dimensions or threads. By '73-'74 anyhow, they just give one universal diagram of the involved bracketry (despite six cylinder, LA, and B/RB using different setups) so it's far from perfect.

Obviously, if you haven't got the factory V2 compressor, all that goes out the window.

I don't know how far down you've taken the compressor, but be warned: The front bracket must be installed prior to the clutch/coil assembly. Some of the rear brackets, I believe, use bolts that also serve other purposes (oil pump cover, maybe). If I get the chance, I'll try to get some detail photos from my '71. It should be very similar if not the same, and that system is 100% unmolested.

Another caveat, which I think I mentioned: Converting to R134 requires new or rebuilt hoses, different oil, and a change in how the compressor is switched on and off. If you put it back using all the factory parts and use R134, you might have AC, but only for a very short period of time. It won't last. Check with one of the AC-retrofit outfits (Classic Auto Air, Vintage Air, etc.) to see exactly what you need to do because I'm still not sure myself.
 
I'm heading out there in a while, will try the bolt idea on the balancer first, then clear the balancer, try & get the brackets I have pics for on, steering pump I think I have that figured.
then I'll bring out the old compressor, most of the brackets are still on that & see where they bolt.
I'll shoot a pic or 2 of that, nice to know what I do have?
I think mark (charger man) did an A/C upgrade on his charger, I'll see what he used & what kind of job it was & check out your guys & then decide what the heck to do with it.
 
Jass, don't go crazy, I think I got it, the A/c compressor & it's bracket answered the alternator question.
 
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bolt& wrench trick worked great!
I started at 50lbs, clicked instantly, went to 75, same thing & again at 90 so it's over 90 how much I have no idea? 20231015_114954.jpgfirst alt bracket I had a pic.20231015_132523.jpgAlso had a couple for the steering pump. 20231015_132534.jpg20231015_132548.jpg
A/C compresor bracket had the other alternator mount, stuck in the fuel pump & dipstick first. 20231015_132612.jpgThe one in the back took me a while to figure, the nut has to come off the compressor rear. 20231015_132814.jpg
 
I'll get a shot of the compressor front up later.

Now I'm thinking I have to leave that old compressor on if I get to start up before I do the A/c?????
 
here's the front view of the compressor20231015_140129.jpg
Got the lower pulley on, did locktight on the bolts20231015_140140.jpgstarting to look like something, what I don't know? 20231015_140159.jpgfound a 4th bolt for the rear sway bar, but it was right against the fuel line, so I cut open a piece of hose & wrapped it around. 20231015_141656.jpg
 
Now I have to figure what to do with the radiator, it didn't leak & didn't look too nasty inside, but it's beat up on the outside.
the only place near me wants 750 for a recore, is that reasonable.
I had also picked up another used 26" rad.
I guess I'll dig em out tomorrow & see what they look like after sitting for another 10 years.
don't want to go aluminum, are there any repops out there?
I guess I have to try searching AGAIN!
 
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I don't know what's reasonable for a recore, to be honest. $750 seems high, but I did pay over $200 in 2015 just to have the lower tank changed on my radiator. Copper/brass has gotten so expensive that I can't say I'm surprised.

The only reproductions of which I'm aware are made by Glen-Ray in WI. Small-block radiators start at $1,200. He also does recore and restoration work, so it might be worth calling to get an estimate. His work is top-flight, as one would expect with such expense. He's the go-to guy in the high-end restoration game. Glen-Ray actually provided the (used) lower tank for my radiator.

I don't care for aluminum radiators either, but there are some that at least attempt to look stock with molded tank ribs. I have one of those in my '69 Valiant, which I painted black. It's not perfect by a long shot, but it works well and I wasn't willing to spend hundreds on a correct A-body 340 radiator for that beater. Pics of what I did with mine, and how it came out, are in this post in my build thread.
The engine paint didn't stick to the tanks and brackets very well. It hasn't flown off, but it chips very easily. If I had to do it again, I'd scuff those areas with Scotch-Brite and prime them with self-etch primer prior to paint for better adhesion. The high-heat black--literally barbecue-grill paint--stuck well to the core. Don't prime the fins/tubes, use the flat-black high-heat stuff and keep it as thin as you can. Paint impedes heat transfer to the air.
 
Now I have to figure what to do with the radiator, it didn't leak & didn't look too nasty inside, but it's beat up on the outside.
the only place near me wants 750 for a recore, is that reasonable.
The sad part is the actual core - the tubes - don't make it ugly. The fins do.

I'd sit down with a fin straghtening tool for a long long time before I'd shell out $750 that I didn't have to.

There are cheaper ones, but Malco tools are the bomb and worth paying extra for, but you probably know that, as a retired HVAC guy. You might even have one already.

Malco Products FST2 Malco Fin Straightening Tools | Summit Racing

There are different ones for different fin/inch ratios.
 
Now I have to figure what to do with the radiator, it didn't leak & didn't look too nasty inside, but it's beat up on the outside.
the only place near me wants 750 for a recore, is that reasonable.
I had also picked up another used 26" rad.
I guess I'll dig em out tomorrow & see what they look like after sitting for another 10 years.
don't want to go aluminum, are there any repops out there?
I guess I have to try searching AGAIN!
Contact Midland Radiator in Garfield, tellem Don from Modern said to call and ask them for advice.
 
I'm going to dig em out in a little while, I'll shoot some pics.
I did a little searching last night & noticed none of the 26" that would fit had that fitting on the top right, not even sure what it was for?

I did have some of those fin tools, never had much luck with them, but might work better on the rad, that's if I didn't chuck them?
 
OK, think mine is shot, both bottom brackets have come loose20231016_132553.jpg20231016_132608.jpgA little cruddy inside20231016_132622.jpgthis is the fitting I don't see on the new ones (or a provision for it)20231016_132645.jpg
ebay one is a bit cleaner inside20231016_133230.jpg
I did notice someone drilled a new mounting hole in it so probably not from a cuda, it was listed as such!
Also has different brackets on the back both sides?
It does have a provision for the fitting. 20231016_134552.jpg
I guess if I'm going to take a chance I might see how the ebay one mounts up in there?
 

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