Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Yeah, $400 is pretty steep, even with labor. The part nobody probably showed might've been the locking collar, but all the bearings I've bought came with one despite it not being called out, even the $18 overseas bearing I keep in stock at the store. Either that, or it was one of the axle-shaft gaskets, but those are readily available for under $3 each locally (both the stamped metal one and the white foam are easily-had Fel-Pro or Victor parts).

Using all top-shelf parts (Timken beaings & seals, Fel-Pro gaskets) it's about $235 including tax from me for both sides. Using less-expensive store-brand stuff, it's less than $75.
 
Parts I bought, it was only 100 to put it together, I think he went easy on me because I waited so long!

I think just the way I got them back shows He cares!
20230919_152020.jpg

Now I don't know what I'm looking at but that last piece with the wire in front of it looks like a seal? 20230919_152155.jpg
 
It looks like the kit you bought came with new 5-bolt axle retainers too. Bearings don't come with those, so I've no idea what that setup costs. I've never had to replace those. They're non-wearing parts, so unless they've rotted off they generally get re-used.

The piece with the wire wrapped alongside it is the press-fit bearing collar. That gets destroyed every time the bearing comes off. The outer seal is between the bearing and the 5-bolt axle retainer. It's not easily viewed once everything's assembled.

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The axler with the adjuster on it officially goes on the passenger's side, but it'll work just fine if you reverse them.
 
99% sure there in there, he did mention something about going to a heavier than stock gear oil, a little marring on the axles,
charger mann should be around a bit in the next few days, I will ask about the seal tools & after he works on His jeep if there's time we will attempt to drop the motor in!!!
This will be a big jump forward on the project!

The package tray arrived today, didn't open it up yet to inspect!
 
well it was a mixed results day, so I'll start with the good, there be an engine in my bay! 20230920_155432.jpg
Just to be safe I laid the header in before we dropped in the motor, BBB the brace did have to come out on this side! just hanging on 2 bolts for now. 20230920_155443.jpg
The brace on the other side may be OK, it's behind the starter? 20230920_155502.jpg
 
NOW the bad stuff, Mark did have a seal removal tool, but it did not work on mine, we beat it to death & could not get the seal to budge, tool is pretty much trash now, it was flat & straight when we started. 20230920_155843.jpg
The book shows a slide hammer with a hook, I'll stop by my guys place tomorrow & see if He has & I can borrow it? Or if absolutly necessary buy one, I don't really want to go below.
I did think maybe if I remove the center section I might be able to use a piece of pipe to bang em out form opposite sides?
 
A little more good stuff, package try looks good, the padding next to it is he roof insulation, that should be fun!20230920_104032.jpg
20230920_110953.jpg
Should I cut away the padding above the speakers?
 
Crap, more bad.
Read the header instructions & it says I have to cut a linkage brace, overlap it 1/4" & weld it back & install the rod upside down, that does not jive with all bolt in installation!!! 20230920_155412.jpgNow my rod is barley into that support, I checked up top no slack there? I'm thinking of hanging the header to see, but I'm sure they have this all mapped out? 20230920_155327.jpg
 
While I'm crying the blues, how the neck does this extender come off, the pulley is loose & can move a bit, when I turn the extension the pump turns, is there a fastener down that middle hole??????? 20230920_160831.jpg20230920_160837.jpg
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Should I cut away the padding above the speakers?
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The REM stuff used to have knockouts for the speaker openings. If they don't anymore, then yes, cut out the insulation in the area of the speaker openings. Don't use the package tray as a guide, use the sheetmetal.

RUSTY Cuda said:
Crap, more bad.
Read the header instructions & it says I have to cut a linkage brace, overlap it 1/4" & weld it back & install the rod upside down, that does not jive with all bolt in installation!!! View attachment 26292Now my rod is barley into that support, I checked up top no slack there? I'm thinking of hanging the header to see, but I'm sure they have this all mapped out? View attachment 26291
Click to expand...
TTi insisted I needed their modified countershaft for my 4-speed car, but the stocker cleared just fine. You might get away with just flipping the swivel to the top side, but the only way to know is to try it. Make sure you've got the starter and positive cable installed before you start trying to install the header. It's a real pain after the header's in place.

RUSTY Cuda said:
While I'm crying the blues, how the neck does this extender come off, the pulley is loose & can move a bit, when I turn the extension the pump turns, is there a fastener down that middle hole??????? View attachment 26293View attachment 26294
Click to expand...
It just taps off. The only thing holding it on is "galvanic" corrosion between the steel pilot on the pump hub and the aluminum spacer itself. It might take some beating, but there's no fastener other than corrosion.

Find and use a blade that fits this:

20230915_140211-jpg.26236


Clutch fans are quieter in operation (often dramatically so) and net better fuel economy and power. The clutch you've got there is called a "torque limiting" design; they also make thermostatically clutched units. The thermostatic ones are a little more efficient, but it's not likely worth the extra expense over what you already own.

As far as blades go, they were made in 5, 7, and 8-blade varieties. Any of them that fit your shroud (if you have one) should work. I prefer the 5-blade fans used on cop cars and trucks. A lot of that is go-fast consideration, but they don't cool any differently than the standard 7-blade units. If you can't find a blade, let me know. I'm pretty sure I've got extras. With 12 or 13 engines lying around, I certainly should have. 😄

Note to future Rusty: Fan clutches contain a viscous coupling fluid that can leak out over time. They should always be stored face down (sitting on the fins, bolt holes up).
 
Maybe tomorrow I will get the starter & it's wires in & then mount the headers to see what I have to do with the linkage?

Q ? Stud goes in the lower starter bolt hole correct, with mild thread locker?

OK another question here, should I use thread sealant on the front & rear header bolt holes, I think those are the "wet" ones, or maybe better, hunt down studs for those 4 holes?

So I could have used that fan base on the other car, I had it & then bought the thermostatic one thinking that was solid, I'm a dumbass!

I'll get a pic of the blade that was on there & see what you think, stock would be fine by me if I can locate one!
 
Just watched 2 videos on seal removal, one guy did it with a pipe wrench & a screw driver, I have those!
Another did it like a freeze out plug, pounded on one side turned it & just grabbed it & took it out, I'll give those a try before I go nutso!
 
A big screwdriver and a hammer are my tools of choice for axle seals. stick the blade under/over one side and the other and pry against the housing. Apply hammer as needed.
 
YEP, I think that's why Marks tool didn't work.
Tried the pipe wrench idea first & worked like a charm, came out pretty easy.
one side was marred up a little so I put a bead of Permatex copper on both sides.
We have new seals! 20230921_133144.jpg
I was lucky Marks tools were here, I have nothing near this big! 20230921_134038.jpg
Put in the starter stud & hung the starter loosely for now, when I go back out I'll try the header & see if I can slip it in there, they did mention something on the steering had to be swung aside & also they go in from underneath not sure they will clear the starter that way, but without my steering column in I may be able to go from the top.
Guess I'll find out in a little while!
 
So a couple of weeks ago I was scrounging for things to do, now I have enough to keep me busy the rest of the year!
can build the rear end, only missing parts are the new bushings that go in the frame for the shackles. So I can't hang it yet.
can put in the exhaust
can build most of the interior
can fill up the engine bay with all kinds of goodies
can wire the front end

etc etc etc !
 
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