Wailing & gnashing of teeth...

That was my original idea, I do have my 74's vin (& the sales write up) I was thinking of hunting down after the first cuda, then not a year later I got this 74, now I'm too old, chances are being a N.Y. car it's a pile of rust in some junk yard if it hasn't been squished or melted down yet.
Good luck on the hunt!
 
and here i am blissfully happy i hung onto all of teh important ones......while id love to have my 71 caddy coupe back, to be honest ANY 71 caddy coupe would do
 
I found and still have a speeding(?) ticket with the VIN from my first Challenger, if I ever come into some money I'd love to track it down and hopefully own it again.

I wish you luck on your hunt for your Challenger Doc!
Not only do I know the VIN of mine, I still have literally all of the original paperwork from the day it was delivered, including a fantastic build sheet and the trade-in agreement for his '67 Impala SS ($600 trade value). I even have the Manufacturer's Statement of Origin, which was supposed to be submitted to the state to get the first title issued. I don't think I've ever seen another original MSO.
 
That was my original idea, I do have my 74's vin (& the sales write up) I was thinking of hunting down after the first cuda, then not a year later I got this 74, now I'm too old, chances are being a N.Y. car it's a pile of rust in some junk yard if it hasn't been squished or melted down yet.
Good luck on the hunt!
You could try submitting the VIN to the NICB website. It won't tell you where the car is or who owns it, but it will theoretically let you know if the car's been crushed or stolen. Scrapyards weren't always scrupulous back in the old days, but it's worth a shot.

 
Did it, not a total loss or a theft, that's all they said, sent me to car fax, but they must no go back that far, my vin was 13#s they want min. 17?
 
Did it, not a total loss or a theft, that's all they said, sent me to car fax, but they must no go back that far, my vin was 13#s they want min. 17?
Yeah, Carfax doesn't go back that far; I think '81 or '82 is the first year. If you wanted to know anything more, you'd have to do a title search or hire someone who does such things. I assume you sold the car running and driving, which is not the case with my Challenger. It was sold as parts: Mike took the trans, Bill took the dash and doors and hung onto the shell for years. Bill might still have the VIN because he wanted the (perfect) dash pad, but I'd bet one American dollar that car's still titled in my name.
 
Talked to the body/paint guy about my car last night. He's had a lot of setbacks in the last couple of years but will be doing mine soon.

He'd told a mutual friend he needed to talk to me but didn't have my phone number (it changed in the interim). It turns out he's gotten himself hooked up with Restoration Specialists in WI and was trying to upsell me on having the car acid-dipped and EDP coated.
I know what RS charges for it, and I know what the shop that actually does the work for RS charges, and I assume he was looking at a little profit for himself too. We didn't discuss price; based on what I know it would've damned-near doubled the cost of the work he's doing. I told him I don't see the value in EDP coating anything since EDP offers virtually zero corrosion protection. In fact, I'd talked Kevin down from doing this on his Charger, which is how I know RS gets around $8,000 for the process.

We did talk about other things, like moving the antenna hole from the fender to the quarter panel and my undying need to keep as much OE sheetmetal as possible. I also told him to not worry about the stripes. I may forego them this go-round, but if I don't I may do vinyl instead of paint... a little easier if I change my mind.
 
Well, it's certainly the case with bodywork but in this case, it's worth it. It took me 25 years to find and acquire a car, and I want it black. That's no situation to attempt myself for a first paint job. I want it nice, not "It's my first overall" nice... hence leaving it to a professional. If it costs me ten grand, so be it. I have more than twice that into the rest of it, so the paint warrants the expense.
As far as acid dipping and EDP coating the entire unibody, I've no idea. I never thought about it and only learned of its expense when Kevin started talking about it for his Charger. In my case, I have a Southern car that's never seen a winter and never will. The factory floors and trunk are still in it and solid, so for the pampered life it'll live henceforth, I really do not see any value a'tall in the process.
 
On the other car I had the fenders & hood dipped, but NOT E coated, hood & I fender ended up junked, somehow I saved one fender, they all started rusting where there was double metal even though I tried to flood them with por 15, I guess it never got in there.
Lucky this one's a texas car, some rust, in different places but nothing like my Long Island rust bucket!
 
I had an interesting conversation with Bill Miller (yeah, that one) a little while ago regarding my connecting rods. It turns out they're rather old--he guessed about 30 years--but unused. He asked me if I'd attempted to install them or even tightened the bolts. I told him I took one out of the box to ogle and fondle, but never did anything with them. I knew better than to screw with the bolts, because I'd read his website. Well, someone tightened the bolts at one point, and that's apparently bad if they're not on the crankshaft. I asked him what needed to be done.
He said, "They might be alright as-is. If these were going in my junk, though, I'd pull the [dowel] pins, re-hone the big end, and install new fasteners."
"You'd have no qualms about using them, though?"
"No. Absolutely not."
Who am I to question or second-guess the guy who designed and made the damned things? I said, "Pretend they are going in your junk. I don't want any doubts. Give 'em the whole treatment... uh, exactly how bad is this going to hurt?" He said he'd be gentle on me, but with new bearings (at $20/pop) I'm looking at somewhere between $400-$500.
My first thought was "ouch" but I've thought about it since. A good-quality set of rods of equal strength would set me back $750+ (Scat, Eagle, etc. are out; think Manley). Also, the BME rods are dramatically lighter than anything of similar brawn. I paid $300 for the BMEs, so at the finish line it's approximately a wash. A set of new BME rods will set a fool back a couple grand, so despite the extra outflow I think I'm doing OK.
 
imo tho your ahead due to the weight savings tho right?
Absolutely. Somewhere 'round here I posted how much lighter they are than OE or aftermarket steel rods. I think balancing is going to require ~10lb to be removed from the crank. It should build RPM very quickly if that's the case. :cool:
 
10 lbs from the crank..shit thats MASSIVE....thats not "a little lighter" thats another league lighter
I found the post. It's approximately six pounds off the crankshaft (still significant) but there's another 9+ I've already removed from the reciprocating parts (pistons, pins, rods):

I love my paint scale. 😁

Goofing around in the garage a little last night, I did some comparisons between factory bits and what's going in the Challenger's 340. The piston/pin assemblies are 220g lighter each, which is a total difference of 1,760g. The BME connecting rods are significantly lighter than OE--300g each. That's another 2,400g, for a total of 4,160g or 4.16kg.

If you're reading while this sitting in a country with a flag on the moon, that means I'll have removed around 9.2 pounds from the rotating/reciprocating weight attached to the crankshaft. Roughly estimated, they'll have to remove another 6 pounds from the crankshaft just to get it in balance. A 340 is a quick-revving engine in the first place; I can't wait to see how quickly one will rev with ~15 less pounds swinging around inside it.
It's still "another league" lighter overall. With a 238° solid cam, ported T/A heads and a Six Pack setup, she oughta rip pretty well.
 
I completely expect all of this to go off the rails, for the record. For the time being, it's fun being this excited about cars for the first time in awhile, even if it's all based on false hope.
...and off the rails it went. Frank's 340 is not my engine, nor was the one he sold. At this point, I'm back to Square One. I'll keep sniffing, but I'm not determined to the point where I'll stop working on what I've already got.
 
I found the post. It's approximately six pounds off the crankshaft (still significant) but there's another 9+ I've already removed from the reciprocating parts (pistons, pins, rods):


It's still "another league" lighter overall. With a 238° solid cam, ported T/A heads and a Six Pack setup, she oughta rip pretty well.
That's "qualifying engine" lighter... :)
 
Well, it's certainly the case with bodywork but in this case, it's worth it. It took me 25 years to find and acquire a car, and I want it black. That's no situation to attempt myself for a first paint job. I want it nice, not "It's my first overall" nice... hence leaving it to a professional. If it costs me ten grand, so be it. I have more than twice that into the rest of it, so the paint warrants the expense.
As far as acid dipping and EDP coating the entire unibody, I've no idea. I never thought about it and only learned of its expense when Kevin started talking about it for his Charger. In my case, I have a Southern car that's never seen a winter and never will. The factory floors and trunk are still in it and solid, so for the pampered life it'll live henceforth, I really do not see any value a'tall in the process.
I've never been sold on the worth of chemical dipping an entire shell and EDP coating.
Unless your ride is one of the strastopherically-priced machines, and will be largely a show queen, it's a waste of money that could go towards other work. Don't get me wrong: it does a beautiful job (though EDP coating quality is always hit and miss), but the effort required after the fact to seal and protect everything just isn't worth it on anything that may see weather of any type.
$10,000 for body & paint... not in Canada. You could easily double that for a decent job. ;)
 
thats always been my fear with a "dip" while its quick, it just leaves everything exposed and worse....everything you CANT SEE let alone get to.....atleast with traditional blasting or even laser...if you cant see it, it doesnt get stripped
 

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