thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Are you going to paint it with an enamel before putting the new top on?
What lies beneath
- Thread starter Stretch
- Start date
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Yes Sir.
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
whats your plan for the seams?, not sure what resto's opinion is but ive been using "all metal" with stellar results..i LOVE the stuff...my understanding is it was developed to replace lead seams, and honestly ive used it alot over the years on both lead seams and places where you would have traditionaly leaded and then filled .....the rolled cuda i did i saw pic's of a few years ago and talked to the owner and it still shows no signs of ever being touched.....i finished that car BEFORE i got the lloyd and its been coast to coast twice and now resides somewhere in the midwest
between my own "new" stuff i did to it, i also re-did every lead seam on the car with it and the roof was full paint as you would expect from a fastback
between my own "new" stuff i did to it, i also re-did every lead seam on the car with it and the roof was full paint as you would expect from a fastback
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
I've never cared for the All-Metal fillers... though I've not ever seen a failure with it.
I found it stubborn to work with and ROCK HARD if left for any period of time.
For me, there are better products available, but like I said, I've never seen a failure from it.
I found it stubborn to work with and ROCK HARD if left for any period of time.
For me, there are better products available, but like I said, I've never seen a failure from it.
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
your not wrong about hard to work with, you go in planing where work it to shape and get it as close to it as possible,, after working with it as long as i have ive learned some tricks and SWEAR by it specificaly for "wide" and deep stuff where a perfect metal seam is NOT an option
in fact for factory seams like roof ones where a slathering of lead was ill work it in and then GRIND it down to close to what i want then come back with 36g to work it the rest of the way....the biggest thing i have found with it is that there is a time threshold where after 24hours its SOLID and if you cut it flat with a grinder its then sandable like any other filler you just have to use your most agressive paper first and then slowly come down like you were trying to polish
tho id love to know what you use instead resto
in fact for factory seams like roof ones where a slathering of lead was ill work it in and then GRIND it down to close to what i want then come back with 36g to work it the rest of the way....the biggest thing i have found with it is that there is a time threshold where after 24hours its SOLID and if you cut it flat with a grinder its then sandable like any other filler you just have to use your most agressive paper first and then slowly come down like you were trying to polish
tho id love to know what you use instead resto
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
"tho id love to know what you use instead resto"
For what is going on here, I would be using a fiber-reinforced filler, like Mar Glass, or EverGlass, over every seam and pinhole and pits. A good, well-mixed application. Let it harden thoroughly, and then buzz it level with a mini-grinder and 36 grit disc. I use the reinforced filler for shape building as much as possible, sometimes two coats is necessary for deeper seams like a roof/quarter panel joint. Keep in mind, I've been doing this for a long time, so roughing something out with a mini grinder and 36 grit is easy-peasy to me.
When the reinforced filler is where I want it to be, a thin skim of polyester filler, like Evercoat Z-Grip, or Rage Gold, basically finishes it off. It's only with the polyester filler do I bother with a block or long board, as it's this filler that will determine the final shape. I usually start with 80 grit, though for bigger areas a quick cut with 40 grit will lighten the wear and tear on shoulder muscles... Sometimes two or three coats are required, but I've always held that if you need three or more coats, you need to look close at how you're doing the work, 'cause you're doing something wrong.
Finish work on the polyester filler never progresses beyond 120 grit, at least on my work. Finer grits are wasted time if any two-part putty is needed for scratches or small pinholes.
A thing skim coat over everything with a top-quality two-part putty, some block work with 180 and a final touch with some 280 and it's ready for polyester primer, urethane primer or what ever other primer is desired. I rarely need to apply two coats of putty, as it's the underlying filler that determines the proper shape, The putty is strictly for scratches and pinholes, though some guys like it for small dents. Not me.
I mention Evercoat products because they're the most common where I've worked. USC, 3M are some others that make excellent fillers.
For what is going on here, I would be using a fiber-reinforced filler, like Mar Glass, or EverGlass, over every seam and pinhole and pits. A good, well-mixed application. Let it harden thoroughly, and then buzz it level with a mini-grinder and 36 grit disc. I use the reinforced filler for shape building as much as possible, sometimes two coats is necessary for deeper seams like a roof/quarter panel joint. Keep in mind, I've been doing this for a long time, so roughing something out with a mini grinder and 36 grit is easy-peasy to me.
When the reinforced filler is where I want it to be, a thin skim of polyester filler, like Evercoat Z-Grip, or Rage Gold, basically finishes it off. It's only with the polyester filler do I bother with a block or long board, as it's this filler that will determine the final shape. I usually start with 80 grit, though for bigger areas a quick cut with 40 grit will lighten the wear and tear on shoulder muscles... Sometimes two or three coats are required, but I've always held that if you need three or more coats, you need to look close at how you're doing the work, 'cause you're doing something wrong.
Finish work on the polyester filler never progresses beyond 120 grit, at least on my work. Finer grits are wasted time if any two-part putty is needed for scratches or small pinholes.
A thing skim coat over everything with a top-quality two-part putty, some block work with 180 and a final touch with some 280 and it's ready for polyester primer, urethane primer or what ever other primer is desired. I rarely need to apply two coats of putty, as it's the underlying filler that determines the proper shape, The putty is strictly for scratches and pinholes, though some guys like it for small dents. Not me.
I mention Evercoat products because they're the most common where I've worked. USC, 3M are some others that make excellent fillers.
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Today was a good day! I primed all of the filler work and painted it. I think it turned out really good considering I have never painted a body panel before. I have primed and painted chassis and chassis parts but never a panel. I'm also very happy with how close the 4hr. old paint matches the 48 year old paint.
I hope the attempt at the vinyl goes as good as my first attempt at body repair and paint.
I hope the attempt at the vinyl goes as good as my first attempt at body repair and paint.
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Yesterday three guys got together and did this. Its very important to remember that three out of three guys working on this nonsense have have NEVER done this before! 
I told myself all along that we could do this. I told myself for the cost of having it done I could screw up a few tops before I started loosing money. I have from the start told myself going to school to learn a skill is expensive. Any money spent is basically the cost of learning. It ony took about five years to talk myself into doing it once I had the new top.
We live in a very rural area. Taking the car to a shop to have it done would involve trailering it over 100 miles on winter roads and leaving it for a week. I'm not at all comfortable with others working on my vehicles. Especially this one. I'm even less comfortable leaving it in a shop I know little about in Green Bay WI. I'm not exactly excited about giving money to someone for something I think I can do myself.
I'm not going to lie. I was nerves as hell Friday night. Nervous enough to feel sick to my stomach and have a very unpleasant sit down conference in the master bathroom. Saterday morning wasn't much better. Once Nate, Jass, and myself started my nerves calmed for the most part, as long as we were busy. The 15 to 30 minutes between each step to let the content cement dry before we streched the vinyl was plenty of time to rev my nerves back up. I'm sure Jass can tell you if it was noticeable. I feel like I hid it pretty well.
I am super happy with the results! I can't wait to get back out there today. I need to install the trim so I know where to cut the top. I can't wait to trim the vinyl edges and install the trim for the last time then pull the masking for the last time so I can see just how good it turned out.
I told myself all along that we could do this. I told myself for the cost of having it done I could screw up a few tops before I started loosing money. I have from the start told myself going to school to learn a skill is expensive. Any money spent is basically the cost of learning. It ony took about five years to talk myself into doing it once I had the new top.
We live in a very rural area. Taking the car to a shop to have it done would involve trailering it over 100 miles on winter roads and leaving it for a week. I'm not at all comfortable with others working on my vehicles. Especially this one. I'm even less comfortable leaving it in a shop I know little about in Green Bay WI. I'm not exactly excited about giving money to someone for something I think I can do myself.
I'm not going to lie. I was nerves as hell Friday night. Nervous enough to feel sick to my stomach and have a very unpleasant sit down conference in the master bathroom. Saterday morning wasn't much better. Once Nate, Jass, and myself started my nerves calmed for the most part, as long as we were busy. The 15 to 30 minutes between each step to let the content cement dry before we streched the vinyl was plenty of time to rev my nerves back up. I'm sure Jass can tell you if it was noticeable. I feel like I hid it pretty well.
I am super happy with the results! I can't wait to get back out there today. I need to install the trim so I know where to cut the top. I can't wait to trim the vinyl edges and install the trim for the last time then pull the masking for the last time so I can see just how good it turned out.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I'm like you, don't like the idea of taking my car somewhere out of my control and leaving it. That's basically why my cars are never as nice as they could be, but I sleep well at night so I guess it's a fair trade.
That top looks great. You guys do good work.
That top looks great. You guys do good work.
71dusterman
Well-known member
Looks good Stretch. Who's the camera shy one, shielding his face with a hat?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Don't let him fool you, he was still a bundle of nerves while we were doing it:
"Damn it, we're fucked!"
"We're not fucked yet. Calm down."
That was heard more than once.
We were all pretty gun-shy about this job. It was neither Nate's, nor my, car or money involved which actually raised the stakes for us. We didn't want to disappoint Stregetable or forever be known as "the dumbass that screwed up the vinyl top job back in '21".
But, now that we've done one, we still have no real strategy as to doing another. We also agreed that no way in hell is Agnes getting a new vinyl top. Shiny black paint will do just fine.
"Damn it, we're fucked!"
"We're not fucked yet. Calm down."
That was heard more than once.
We were all pretty gun-shy about this job. It was neither Nate's, nor my, car or money involved which actually raised the stakes for us. We didn't want to disappoint Stregetable or forever be known as "the dumbass that screwed up the vinyl top job back in '21".
But, now that we've done one, we still have no real strategy as to doing another. We also agreed that no way in hell is Agnes getting a new vinyl top. Shiny black paint will do just fine.
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Holy hell was today stressful! I thought yesterday had me wired! Oh HELL FUCK NO! Nothing like today. All I had to do was trim the vinyl along the halo edge. Oh, and make sure to not cut it wrong! The trim is less than a 1/2" wide so that doesn't leave much room to fuck up. Oh, and it curves along the rear 1/4 glass area. Oh, it curves at the 1/4's before it heads across under the glass.
That was,.....fun? Not fun?
Yes, very much not fun!
I wanted to have the halo trim all done today but I can't find the box of clips for that trim. I had it in my hands the day I took it apart. LOL. Oh well. Good time to stop for the day I guess.
The halo trim is just sitting in place for these pictures. I couldn't wait to see it.
That was,.....fun? Not fun?
Yes, very much not fun!I wanted to have the halo trim all done today but I can't find the box of clips for that trim. I had it in my hands the day I took it apart. LOL. Oh well. Good time to stop for the day I guess.
The halo trim is just sitting in place for these pictures. I couldn't wait to see it.
Last edited:
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Stressful or not, that looks real good. Be proud. Volunteer to help someone else mess one up, I mean install one now.
My road runner might get a vinyl top, but if it does it's to keep from scratching the heck outta the roof with the hood.
My road runner might get a vinyl top, but if it does it's to keep from scratching the heck outta the roof with the hood.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Having done that one, I would think not... at least not on a non-fastback body style. There's a lot of pulling and stretching required, and on the A-body coupes and sedans you've got a ledge at the quarter panel in the way of your pull. There's also no tucking of the vinyl into, then coming up and over the drip rails on Stretch's halo roof. On his car, everything ends at a nice, fairly flat area. On the flip side of that, the A-body would probably be easier around the front and rear glass, since it's gasketed. It's also a bit smaller.
Either way, I have no intention of finding out.
It looks really good with the chrome back in place, Stretch... although I may be biased. You can calm down now.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Uh, weren't the clips for the halo trim still in the trim itself? They were still in the piece I handled yesterday.
thrashingcows
Drowning deep in my sea of loathing...so I'm
Man that turned out awesome! As a good friend of mine and I alway say when we are working on projects we have never done before, or seem daunting..."We only need to be 2% smarter then whatever we are working on!" So congrats on everyone contributing about 1% to the job!