What kind of parts store..

dodgechargerfan

dodgechargerfan

In a 55 gallon drum, floating down river, and
Staff member
won't give a customer a boost in their own parking lot?

One that I won't be going to anymore: www.partsource.ca in St. Catharines, ON
I don't really like them anyway, but they're about the only game in town on a Saturday afternoon except for Canadian Tire.

What's worse is I went in after buying 60 bucks worth of stuff and asked the employee I saw. He said, "The driver can but he just left. If you see him come in, ask him, he's driving a white S-10."

So, I fiddled around with the New Yorker in the parking lot for a while and when I see the S-10 come in, I go over and ask and he says, "Sorry it's the work truck. I can't."

I tell him what the guy inside said and he still says, "No."

I check my trunk and I don't have my cables with me. So, I call up the wife and she come in the truck. It fires up right away and I make it home with no issues at all other than I rolled down the window and then couldn't get it back up because there's not enough juice.

I put the battery on the charger and it is charging up.

The weird things in all of this is that it started fine when I first took it out today. It took a little cranking, of course, but it didn't seem to be working too hard. Once the fuel got flowing it fired up fine.

Same when I took it out a few weeks ago.

I checked the voltage with the terminals connected and without and it's the same in both cases.. 12.25 (it's up to 12.37 on the charger now.)

I know it should be up around 14V, yes?


More about partsource.ca: I tried to find all the part numbers I needed before going in, but one that I couldn't find was for the air filter. So, I asked for a 1971 Chrysler New Yorker air filter... he pulls it up and there's two choices: full-sized and Imperial. I say full-sized because I don't have an Imperial and I am certain I have the original air cleaner (but I could be wrong, I guess). So, waiting for my wife, I figure I'll put in the air filter. I knew before opening it that it was wrong. I wan't paying attention when he was ringing everything up. I brought in the old one and he just tried the Imperial part number and it was a match. He looked at me like it was my fault and said, "You need the Imperial part number."
I pointed out the window and said, "That's not an Imperial."
Maybe the cleaner was changed out in the past, but I really don't think so, but if you're going to be a dickhead, make it over something worht being a dickhead about..
 
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:shifty:
One of my best friends is the manager of the local PartSource.
:shifty:

Sucks, tho'. You'd think they would be ready to help.

Did we put a new V. regulator on the old girl?
 
:wtf: I would go and talk to the manager. The one I go to in London has guys on staff who are also mechanics who will go out and help people to try to diagnose whats up with their vehicle and sometimes even install certain parts for the customer. Parts Source is just a division of Crappy Tire anyhow.
 
dodgechargerfan said:
I checked the voltage with the terminals connected and without and it's the same in both cases.. 12.25 (it's up to 12.37 on the charger now.)

I know it should be up around 14V, yes?
Click to expand...


Have you ever tested the alt output?

:hmmm:
 
Advanced auto parts just opened a store here in Brighton last month and I went in today to buy a battery for my truck. It's an 03 supercrew with the original battery so I knew I was on borrowed time.

I had a $10.00 off over fifty coupon so I decide to run over and get one, I pay for it and the guys says "I'll be right out" :huh:

He brings my battery around the counter on a tool cart and ask's "show me your truck"

No charge install and free NOCO pads:bravo:

DCF, I would have taken my $60.00 worth of stuff back in the store and returned all of it, What jerkoff's:mad:
 
When I worked for Auto Zone, we had one of those portable jump boxes that we'd carry out to the car. We'd also take the test equipment out to the car to help the customer figure out what's wrong with his ride. I've jump started cars in our parking lot for customers to get them to the next parts store because we didn't have the part they needed. Stuff like that keeps them coming to you first.

Sure it was a pain sometimes when we were short staffed and busy and someone needed codes pulled or a charging system tested, but we still did it.
 
That's what I thought they'd do - bring out one of those portable jump boxes.

I should have started taken parts off and bringing them in for free testing - starting with the battery...

or better - buy one of those jump boxes - yes they sell 'em - and bringing it back after I got running...


There is definitely something wrong with the charging circuit. I left it on the charger for a while and it fired right up. I took it out for a run and it was fine until I was close to returning home. I noticed the turn signal was blinking slower than normal.

I kept it running and fed a can of combustion chamber cleaner into the carb - cleaned things out very nicely and let it sit for a while per the instructions.

No start after that. Checked the voltage and it was 11.64.. back on the charger. In for dinner and a shower.
It seems to want to hold at about 12.37 V, but I've got it on the charger over night - it's a smart charger. We'll see what I get tomorrow.

Mike, the voltage reg was changed the morning I picked it up.

I haven't checked the alternator yet. Maybe tomorrow.
 
dodgechargerfan said:
That's what I thought they'd do - bring out one of those portable jump boxes.

I should have started taken parts off and bringing them in for free testing - starting with the battery...

or better - buy one of those jump boxes - yes they sell 'em - and bringing it back after I got running...


There is definitely something wrong with the charging circuit. I left it on the charger for a while and it fired right up. I took it out for a run and it was fine until I was close to returning home. I noticed the turn signal was blinking slower than normal.

I kept it running and fed a can of combustion chamber cleaner into the carb - cleaned things out very nicely and let it sit for a while per the instructions.

No start after that. Checked the voltage and it was 11.64.. back on the charger. In for dinner and a shower.
It seems to want to hold at about 12.37 V, but I've got it on the charger over night - it's a smart charger. We'll see what I get tomorrow.

Mike, the voltage reg was changed the morning I picked it up.

I haven't checked the alternator yet. Maybe tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the battery might be toast. I had a boat battery that would go to 13.5 last fall. This spring it would only go to 12.25 and would not turn the 35hp motor over. My other marine battery was 13.5 and worked fine. I would still have the alt checked but I think I would take the battery in for a load test first. Just my 2 cents. :toot:
 
at least go to the evil empire and get a price for that air filter then hit Partswhores up for their 10% price guarantee.
 
I meant to be specific to the store here in my town, but I forgot to put that in..
I've edited the original post.
 
could be anything causing a no charge- but ya have to test the battery- then the charging circuit.

take a volt meter after you started the car- try at the back of the alt on the red wire and the other to ground-rev it up to about 2k and it should be reading around 14 + volts- if not- she's not charging correctly or there is a problem with the wiring.

let us know!
 
The battery's junk. I can't believe they didn't even offer to test it for you. :doh:

At full charge, a lead-acid six-cell battery should read 12.6V-12.8V. Any lead-acid cell, regardless of size or amperage, puts out 2.10V-2.13V at full charge.

Fully discharged, it should have no less than 11.8V with no load, no less than 10.5V with a load on it.

Jester... GET AWAY FROM THAT BATTERY!

So, these pinnacles of customer service didn't offer to jumpstart you with one of their own vehicles? Amazing.
 
No, they didn't.

The battery is one of theirs too! Got it last year.

To be fair though, I've let it sit on the charger since and it IS showing 12.85 V now.

It makes wonder though if the battery I had last year was actually toast. I brought it to them to load test it. They said, "Yep. It's junk. Here's a replacement." At the time, that's exactly what I was expecting, so I really didn't question it. I had done some basic tests on it before bringing it in to them. Some ohmmeter tests I found somewhere.

So, I've got to get out there and check the alternator.

Still, a boost would have gotten me home and would have made them the first choice for anything I needed that they sold.
Now, they are the absolute last resort.
 
71_DEPUTY said:
could be anything causing a no charge- but ya have to test the battery- then the charging circuit.

take a volt meter after you started the car- try at the back of the alt on the red wire and the other to ground-rev it up to about 2k and it should be reading around 14 + volts- if not- she's not charging correctly or there is a problem with the wiring.

let us know!
Click to expand...

Battery checks out.

I'm not sure if I got it up to 2K, but I never saw more than 12.5 V doing that test.

I did the field resistance test - I think - and the resistance was infinite. That's a little high, isn't it? :doubt:

I say "I think" because I'm not sure which side of the ballast resistor is the coil side. But either way, the resistance is the same.. so... I need to start tracing back towards the battery until I see a drop in resistance. Yes?

I gave up on today. With the wind, I spent more time picking crap up than doing anything. It just pissed me off. So, I went to Costco with the wife. Now, I'm really F&*$ing happy!
 
The very-first thing I'd do is change the brushes in the alternator. The old Chrysler alternators are amazingly fail-proof; I've revived several with nothing more than brushes... they wear to the point where the springs can no longer provide enough tension for a good contact pattern, and the alternator doesn't charge sufficiently.

For the record, I've never had a Chrysler electronic regulator fail. Ever. I've bought at least 7 new ones over the years, and it was never the regulator. :huh: Hell, I think I still have two that have never been out of the package. :D
 
Dr.Jass said:
The old Chrysler alternators are amazingly fail-proof...
Click to expand...


With the exception of the last one I had in the RR that somehow imploded, locked up, shorted out and fried a nice chunk of my new wiring harness.:doubt:

Other than that particular one they are great. :shifty:
 
I did see one on a 340 Swinger years ago that lost some internal parts and shook the whole car. :doh:
 
I did a bunch of tests yesterday.
Those in the service manual were either impossible for me to do (I don't have an ammeter that'll go beyond 10A or a 110 V test lamp) or yielded no results either positive nor negative.

I did find the problem testing for grounds and opens using this info
http://www.tpub.com/content/constructionforklifts/TM-10-3930-627-34/TM-10-3930-627-340051.htm
The key to that info being helpful was that it confirmed that I could use an ammeter instead of a 110 V test lamp. I had done so already, but was still wondering why the factory service manual didn't say to use one.

The tests told me it was likely one of the brushes shorted.

So, it being Sunday and my being pissed at Partsource, I tossed up the Hail Mary play and went to Canadian Tire (yeah, I know same as Partsource but at least they'll boost ya.) Damned if they didn't have a repair kit with the brushes I needed.
The line is called Victory Lap and comes from CPI Parts Division in Concord, MN. Fantastic instruction sheet included.

Cost was $20 and came with more than I needed - or so I thought.

It included the brushes, rectifiers, and all the insulating washers I could need.

I was just going to do the brushes, but since I had the housing apart, I thought I'd test the stator as well since it was just a matter of removing 3 nuts to get it out.
Stator tested out with no opens and no shorts.

Then I looked in the rear housing and one of the diodes from the positive rectifier was rattling around in the bottom. That ain't right.

So, I yanked both rectifiers and replaced them with the new ones.

Everything's back together and tests fine for shorts or opens.

I'll try the Field Coil Draw test before I put it back in the car. I got zero amps when I tested it before.
 
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