Started working on the dually again

v8440

v8440

Well-known member
After a LONG hiatus, I started working on my '98 dually again. The transmission is rebuilt, so I decided to pull the clutch off the engine to check it out. It has been sitting there unattended for like 3 years.

Sure enough, I'm glad I did. There's some rust, which isn't a big concern. The scoring on the billet plate between the friction disks is, and the flywheel friction insert has 3 or 4 very small chunks of material missing. (the flywheel in this setup has a replaceable friction insert on the back so that the actual flywheel doesn't wear, a good thing considering that the complete clutch setup and required oversize input shaft will set you back $2500.) I'll send the stuff back to southbend and they'll make it right.

I guess the 3500 rpm 3rd gear launches are pretty hard on it. Maybe they can use a different material that will take that particular type of abuse better. It sure is fun to lay 4 black marks 20 feet or so and not have to make the first shift until 45 mph.
 
v8440 said:
I guess the 3500 rpm 3rd gear launches are pretty hard on it. Maybe they can use a different material that will take that particular type of abuse better. It sure is fun to lay 4 black marks 20 feet or so and not have to make the first shift until 45 mph.
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Sweet!!! I love the old mechanical Cummins!!!
 
Yep-I do too. A later vp44-type 24 valve would have to be really cheap for me to buy it. I can have a 12 valve making at least 60 hp, and probably more, over stock at the wheels in less than an hour and a half, safely. Plus the injection pump won't croak because the shitty stock lift pump wasn't up to the task of even a stock motor.
 
I missed this for a few days. I can't wait to hear how it runs when you get it back together. I'm a fan of that truck.:)
 
I got the transmission bolted to the engine. Have to come up with crossmember bolts, bolt it in, bolt in driveshaft, find/buy little metal rod that goes from clutch slave cylinder into bellhousing, reinstall exh manifold and turbo, shifter boot, etc. Oh, new batteries and rear tires as well, re-insure and tag.
 
Just to clarify - for new readers - the hunting down talk is in reference to a spammer. Their posts have been deleted.
 
v8440 said:
I got the transmission bolted to the engine. Have to come up with crossmember bolts, bolt it in, bolt in driveshaft, find/buy little metal rod that goes from clutch slave cylinder into bellhousing, reinstall exh manifold and turbo, shifter boot, etc. Oh, new batteries and rear tires as well, re-insure and tag.
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Well come on already...:D

I just got my ol`cummins running again tonight after many problems and set backs...can`t wait to start driving it again.
 
It runs. I haven't driven it yet, and I have a few loose ends to tie up before I do, but it runs. Sounds just like it always did. One thing that still amazes me is just how fast that thing revs off idle when you rap the "throttle". It literally almost revs as quick as a motorcycle for the first few hundred rpm. That wouldn't be so surprising if the clutch and flywheel didn't weigh right at 100 lbs. I scared the hell out of my girlfriend with it today. I had her come over to the truck with it idling, no downpipe connected to the turbo. I then grabbed the lever on the side of the pump and free revved it. She ran inside the house. I had described the smoke it can make to her, but I think it never dawned on her just how much smoke I was really talking about. It wasn't extremely quiet either. I expect to drive it at least a little tomorrow.
 
I'm having trouble getting the downpipe to hook to the rest of the system and still match up to the turbo correctly. So, I put a jackstand underneath the pipe and band clamped it to the turbo. Still haven't hooked the air filter up yet. I'll say this-free revving it to about 3500 rpm, that turbo sure gets loud with no filter or hose over the compressor wheel. It's music to my ears, but probably annoying to the neighbors. I knocked off at about 7:30 tonight so I wouldn't really piss somebody off.
 
I got the downpipe hooked up, though it's not leak-free yet. A set of new batteries and it was ready to go. It drives fine, except it doesn't want to go into granny low. I hope I don't have to pull the transmission to get that fixed-I'm gonna drive it a bit and see if that straightens out. The transmission has about 4 miles on the rebuild. I ran it around the neighborhood some, enough to get it up to operating temp. It feels like it's on the verge of busting the tires loose if you hammer on it in 3rd gear, just like it always did. I need to send the turbo off and get a smaller exhaust housing put on it as the current setup is too large. When I get that done and it starts spooling faster it will pick the truck up some. Right now I have to spray it to light the turbo off in a reasonable time.
 
I too am looking at a smaller exhaust housing. But I still have my baby H1C stock turbo, and non-intercooled, on my motor. I'm thinking of picking up a HX351 or something close. Can't decide if I should run a 12/14 or 16cm housing, mine is a NV4500 as well and some say I should go with the 12cm housing. But won't upgrade until I get my intercooler installed.

Sounds like you have a nice set-up there, what are you spraying with?
 
I have a 50 hp fogger nozzle screwed into the air horn where the pipe comes from the intercooler. I haven't sprayed any nitrous since I got it running yesterday. As for the exhaust housing, it depends on what turbo and other stuff about the engine combo. An hx is the stock turbo on later manual transmission 12 valves if I remember right. I don't know what the size of the exhaust housing was on those. I'm running a High Tech Turbos htb2 with a 64mm compressor wheel and a 14 sq cm exhaust housing. My truck probably makes in the neighborhood of 600 hp at the flywheel, and the turbo is too big. It's pretty laggy down low, and htt rates mine to about 625 hp at the wheels.
 
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