Sleeper

dodgechargerfan

In a 55 gallon drum, floating down river, and
Staff member
****** SRT-4 SRT4 Stage 2 Turbo Station Wagon (ULTIMATE SLEEPER) ***** - $5000 (Whitehall)

http://allentown.craigslist.org/cto/3604355374.html

Up for sale is my 1987 Chrysler Town & Country station wagon. It has a complete 2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4 swap done to it (motor, transmission, suspention, brakes, and everything little in between). The swap has just over 70,000 miles on everything. The car is equipped with a factory stage 2 tune w/ toys (intercooler sprayer, dial a boost, and 100+ octane mode). The car has newer tires on it (toyo proxes), a new battery, new tie rod, new pcv valve, new spark plugs, new thermostat (180*), bigger front mount intercooler, 30/20 boost gauge, custom full 3" exhaust, vacuum lines redone, custom catch can.

I have everything to do the charge pipe mode but haven't done it yet (gets rid of the 1.3" restrictive part on the pipe and makes it 2.5" reduced to 2").

2.4L Turbo
5-Speed Manual

The Bad (mostly all cosmetic issues):

1.) Car needs alot of TLC in the interior (misc. cracked trim pieces, sagging headliner, cig lighter doesn't work, and other random little things... a day at the junkyard to fix these issues would greatly improve the interior).
2.) Window has a small chip/crack in it (it's been like that for a few years and hasn't been an issue other than cosmetic).
3.) Paint is faded (mainly on the hood, but what do you expect for a 26 year old car).
4.) Wood trim could use a light sand and a light coat to protect it.
5.) Has a small boost leak at the stock bov and on the stock intercooler hose ($30-$40 fix for stock replacements)
6.) 1 tire needs to be replaced ($150 installed), 1 tie rod need to be replaced ($20), and an alignment ($70-$80)
7.) Car has some rust near the back wheel wells but it isn't too bad for it's age and location.
8.) Car currently has a restrictive flowmaster muffler on it (I have a 3" non-restrictive magnaflow muffler to be swapped).



With the muffler swapped, the 2 boost leaks fixed, the tire/tie rod/alignment done, and a DSP U7134... This car should be right around 300WHP.



I could possibly fix the tire/tie rod/alignment issue, the boost leak issue, and the muffler issue depending on the right price.


This wagon is one of a kind and very unique.


I'm open to serious offers.


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Wow that thing is practically in my back yard (15-20 minute drive) I wish I had the extra coin...:(
 
I kind of like ugly, as long as I'm not sleeping next to it. :D I've just had way too much fun with the beat-to-death looking junk I drove over the years. There's a certain kind of special feeling you get when you whip the shit out of a nitrous-fed 350 IROC-Z in a once-silver Trans Am with a primered door, green fender, black quarter panel, with literally all the spoilers/spats missing. Of course, it helped that at the time I still looked like I was 14. I wish I had pictures of that car. Back when we used to cruise around here, there would be 10-12 of us hanging around and someone would go past spoiling for a race. Everyone knew I would do it, and they'd all either ridden in that car, or lost to it. "Go get 'em, Jass!" was not uncommon back then.
 
Well, my hatred of front-wheel-drive vehicles is not exactly a secret because of their piss-poor handling characteristics (particularly in foul weather), but it's a neat little concept. I'm sure you remember my tale of the Aspen wagon with the W2-headed 360 that beat me like a rented mule in my '75. Talk about humiliating!
 
pisspoor...in bad weather...dafuq!?!?!?...FWD's are mountain goats in the snow...especialy with a limited slip.....and just cause you drove a stock wagon.....your talking about a nasty turbo engine and a 5spd...thats CRAZY fun..and they lauch GREAT
 
No, they're not "mountain goats". In fact, they're more likely to end up in a snowbank. Just because they leave a stoplight better doesn't mean they handle better in the snow than RWD. They don't. Once they start to understeer, you're essentially screwed. Braking won't help, accelerating won't help, nor will steering inputs... because the wheels that have to do everything are already sliding. Stab the clutch or throw it in neutral, straighten the wheel a bit and pray the front wheels catch traction so you can steer before you end up in oncoming traffic or in a 6' high bank. I've been there, done that, and had to pay for the replacement parts.

I don't know toward whom your "wagon" comment is directed... no one mentioned driving one.
 
uhh...sounds like when you drove a FWD you couldnt get the RWD physics out of your head....you tap and goose at the gas and youll bring it out every time ..letting off the gas in a FWD will ALWAYS make things worse...the trick to a FWD is throwing out what you know about a RWD when it comes to "out of control"
 
And, you would be wrong on both counts. I learned to drive in all conditions in a front-wheel-drive car with a manual transmission (two winters in a row, in fact--three if you count when I'd take it without permission). If my car was broken or I didn't have one? I took Mom's car, which was always front-wheel drive (Escort, Calais, Sunbird, Dynasty, Grand Am). I would bet I've done a hell of a lot more driving in snow than you have, considering the differences in our respective climates. We get actual blizzards here, man, not those cute little West-Coast snowfalls. Our single-year record snowfall is probably more than you get in 5 years (nearly 190"--yes, over fifteen feet in one year). We might have 2-3" of hardpack snow on the road at any given time.

Tapping the gas in real-live snow country only makes things worse once the front goes away with front-wheel drive. I would love to hear the physics behind how adding throttle to tires that are already sliding could possibly make things better. Punching the clutch or putting the auto into neutral allows you to recover a lot more quickly. In fact, doing just that has probably saved my life three times or more, and in one case I was the passenger. I told the driver to stop messing with the throttle, and when he didn't listen, I put the trans in neutral. Had I not, the car would've been center-punched by an Oshkosh truck with an enormous "butterfly" plow blade on the front of it. It was a close-enough scrape that we could see the terror on the face of the truck driver. Once the tires got a little bit of traction, the car followed steering inputs better and we drove out of it. I'm not sure if you're familiar with that kind of plow rig, but there is no doubt it would have kicked us off the planet permanently.

It's not that I don't know how to drive a front-wheeler in the snow, it's just that in my experience, a limited-slip rear, good tires (not even snow tires), and maybe a little weight in the trunk makes a rear-wheeler much more maneuverable. Yeah, it might be a little slower off the stoplight in the snow, but I'd much rather have the RWD in a long, sweeping curve than anything driven by the wrong end in virtually any weather condition.
 
5 years+ of snowboarding..i was up in that kind of snow....the ONLY thing that ever trumped the minivan in the snow was the AWD audi(which is VERY fwd bias) ..and yes they still use those oshkosh plows up there beautifull machines..the fact that i could sling and wheel that van faster and harder in the ice and snow than even my ramcharger is what drove me to buy the thing in the first place....and assuming you have descent tires not snows but good tires a lil tap of the gas is like putting a spin on a bowling ball or english on a billard ball..it will forcably make it pull in the direction of the english...ya know what tho..maybe the weight of a minivan nose makes it pull that much better?..but EVERY time regaardless of surface...if it starts getting out from under you..gas will launch it in the direction teh fronts are pointing
 
Some cars are just better balanced for driving in snow.....and some are pure hell. But, in all of my years of driving many, many different vehicles in Wisconsin winters, I have found that the best combination applies to either front or rear wheel drive. Excessive power is the first killer. I learned many years ago to start out in second gear. Automatics make it a little easier. A standard just needs a little more finesse. For take-off, gear ratio is a major help, the slower the wheels turn - the less chance for spin. And the number one item that determines drivability in snow is the tire width. The skinier the better. The trend of newer cars to have huge, wide tires may work nice on bare pavement, but they're like huge skis under you wheels. The best cars in snow have always been the small, under-powered cars. Their only drawback has been ground clearance. It can be a real bitch when you've got 4 - 5 inches of ground clearance in a 10 inch snowfall. :doh:
 

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