Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

... should I go wet sand on the rest???????????
Only if you want to spend lots of time cleaning before paint.
In over 30 years of painting, I can count on one hand the number of times I wet-sanded something before paint. No matter what anyone says, it's just not necessary.
 
OK my would have been soggy fingers thank you, dry it is, last time I went wet on the 320 & up, but I think I stopped at 400 .
If I don't get rained out tomorrow I got about half the hood to hit with 220 & then I can shoot another coat, maybe start with 320 on that.
 
Are you sanding urethane primer or polyester primer?

If you're doing urethane primer, you really only need to re-prime if you've sanded through or if you think you are about to.
 
The Z-chrome is ester & yea I hit the epoxy in a few spots(my metal sealer coat) so I need another coat I'm only at 220 grit
which brings up another question, I have a full gallon of por15's tie coat primer it is a one step(no hardener or activators to add?????) it is polyurethane primer, can I use that as my next coat & save the Z-chrome for the fenders?
sanded this mourning, it's real close, didn't shoot the next coat, very humid , hoping sunday will be better, no time tomorrow.
 
If the POR 15 trash requires no hardener, it's not urethane, at least not something you want to put under paint.
Put the garbage in the classifieds: some Chevy or British car guy will snap it up.
 
Not familiar with that specific part number, but in reality, anything from PPG will be good stuff.

Is it urethane, high build?
 
Yes, urethane high build .
rechecked the por tie coat primer, it says urethane on the can & in the spec sheet, I'll save it for interior or back of part work on the 74, plenty of spots that won't show just in case.
 
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OK the weather is perfect, so all I need is for the MURPH to stay the heck away for one fine day! :naughty:
Even borrowed marks 2.0 gun so I have a backup if mine screws up, so is it too much to ask to just have one good day with the car where nothing takes my day into the dumper. :huh:
 
& here it is, since I was prepared with a backup the gun shot well, but had to mix more to finish it off, 16 oz's was too much last time out, mixed 10 & came up short, mixed another 6 & had just a tiny bit left go figure, since that was the Murph's worst I'll call it a victory, sanded a while on the c-pillar & rocker, started at 220, hoping to get to 600 before I run out of material????????
Shot the guide coat a little while ago so if next weekend is nice I'm hoping the hood will be done & back on the car, then it's on to the fenders & the pinhole behind the rear window.
 
Ok nice day here & got a few hours in on the hood, light sand with 220 dry & then 320 wet & 400 wet, 99% of the guide is off, only hit last layer in a few spots & I think it's lookin good, if I don't fall asleep on the couch I may hit the 600 later today & may finally be able to move on to another part.

soaked it down to get a shine to check for major ripples???????




not seeing any major defects at this point!

 
Well slow for sure, the steady part (or lack there of) is the problem, did go out & do a round of 600, after it dried still seeing a few deeper scratches, still have some material to work with hope I get em out before my epoxy comes through?
2 more days off hope the weather holds!
 
Here's how I do it:

Block it out with 120 grit. Deal with all the low spots and surface imperfections, whether I spot-putty them, block them out or apply more poly primer. I stay with 120 grit until everything is straight. Check it for straightness with wax & grease remover or paint reducer - whichever is closest. I never wash anything down with water, especially poly primer...

Go to 180 or 220 grit on a block or long board. I'll use an RA sander if I'm feeling super-confidant and the car is not going Black. The object of the 180/220 is not to get rid of coarse-grit scratches, but to level out the microscopic highs next to the lows (scratches). Blow it off and wash it down with wax & grease remover or reducer. Easier to check for straightness here- 120 grit tends to let the solvent flash quicker and it's harder to keep everything wet.

I never use anything finer than 180/220 on polyester primer. It's a waste of time, energy and sandpaper.

Three or four FULL WET coats of urethane high-build primer. Slow and steady, with a 1.8 or bigger tip in the gun. Flash time is critical when priming the way I prime (I HATE re-priming because there wasn't enough millage). It's not uncommon for me to spend an hour + priming one panel, including flash time.

Then, and only then, do I begin using any grit finer than 220. Block it out again (!) with 220 or 280 grit. Now when blocking, I'm done dealing with highs and lows. This step is all about a smooth, peel free surface. Work up to the finish grit of (usually) 600 and it's good to go.


Prep work is a progressive thing.
It's more about evening out than eliminating scratches -each successive finer grit evens out the highs around the previous coarser grit scratches. Let each grit do what it's intended to do before hitting it with a finer grit.
Spend too much time dealing with scratches and you'll wear yourself out and find yourself doing a whole lot of unnecessary work.
 
K, was pretty much with you up to the 220 grit, at that point I shot another coat of polyester & did a light 220 dry & then 320 wet, 400 wet & 600 wet, I seem to do better with wet sanding feeling the "drag" & using the squeegee to show any defects, tomorrow I can hit the 600 again I'll try it dry & see if it's enough for those minor deeper scratches.
So how bad did I screw it up, what's the problem with wet sanding?
I'm out of PPG K36 (urethane high build) should I buy more, I thought I could just go all the way with Z-chrome & paint over that?
What's the reason for switching to urethane?
Sorry for all the dumb questions just want to do it righter(hmmm) than last time out, when I thought I did it right!!!!!!!!!
 
There's nothing wrong with wet sanding, other than the mess, lack of visibility until the surface is cleaned and the ease in which one can burn through the surface without realizing you're getting close. And the mess. I prefer to leave the wet for water sanding and polishing the final product.

However, polyester primer is a sponge. It will absorb water faster than any other product you can put on a car. If it doesn't adequately dry before another coat of whatever is put on top... well, you'll have a water-based finish unlike any other. Even a light dew in the morning can get sucked into polyester primer,and with the days getting shorter with less air dry time available, why push your luck?
Anything you can accomplish with water sanding, you can do just as easily and thoroughly with dry sanding, without the associated possible problems.

You can paint over polyester primer, but remember my sponge comment? It also applies to finger prints, film left from cleaning agents, air-borne contaminants, etc... Urethane primer, because of it's sealing capabilities for lack of a better term, is much easier to rid of the above mentioned crap. You can literally wash spilled oil off of urethane without any lingering effects... try that with polyester primer. Can't do it.
 
OK so either I go another coat & use urethane or I gotta seal this, my problem is it probably won't go to paint till next year, if I find it "ready for paint" (no more hi build needed) can I shoot a coat of epoxy over it & then just rough that up before paint???????????
 

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