Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Hoping the ebay one is correct, these seem to bring some money maybe I can then sell my 2 spares.

OK, those are done another extra part!

don't think I paid any where near 26 bucks 10ish years ago!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
So first I went looking for the screw hole for the sill plate, it ain't there, my wire cover comes all the way to the lip... View attachment 26693
Peeled that back & nothing resembling a screw hole on the lip, even checked with a punch that it might have been filled with paint. View attachment 26694
Click to expand...

There is no hole in the sheetmetal, so quit lookin'. The forward edge of the sill plate should have a screw hole that matches one in the plastic kick panel trim. The end of the screw does not go into the body, it just screws the sill plate to the kick panel, then hangs in space in the gap behind the latter. Here's a picture of the screw location from my '71, although of course the screw is missing. The sill plate sits on top of the kick panel, so the kick panels must be installed prior to the sill plates.

SillScrew.jpg


The same situation exists at the rear. There is no "left" or "right" sill plate.

SillScrewR.jpg
 
It'll make sense when you put it together. The screw will also likely grab the carpet. It's a short screw, not long enough to reach the sheetmetal from where it's installed.
 
I cut more carpet out in the drivers front corner so the kick panel would get down more, sill plate over it, if I can figure out those 4 little pieces of insulation I can be done on the drivers side, but may not screw it down yet, I started on the passenger side put the center seat base in, but now I'm afraid to cut on the outside because every time I press down on a lump the whole carpet shifts, I talked to my head liner guy & he mentioned the only way he knows is a high pressure steam gun.
Gonna call him & see if he has access to that, he also mentioned there's 3 different grades of carpet, mine is the middle one, the better one would lay right in, I wish I knew that before I bought it!
 
Do you really want high-pressure steam in the cabin of your car? That seems like a good way to dampen everything in there without really getting it wet.
 
I would pull the carpet out & bring it to him, I doubt the machine would be able to come here, don't really have any idea what that looks like?
 
Stanley Steemer might have a big old steam machine in their vans. My neighbor had them come out and IIRC it's a pretty big production, lots of noise and hoses back and forth from the van to inside the house.

I just didn't think it would be worth the potential to start corrosion or mildew growing just to get some wrinkles out of the rug.
 
Forgot to call him today, speaking of how the mind works (or doesn't) these days.
wonder how much that would cost (stanley) & if it would work?
 
So today was laying out the wiring up front, while I was out there I started up the heater in the garage so I could paint the drums.
light harness looks good, just one wire I have to look up red wire (extended in black) off the light harness20231120_132633.jpg
On the neutral safety, 2 questions, should I at least tape or sleeve those bare wires all the way down to the tranny? & on my main plug there's an extra wire (brown w/yellow tracer) quite long not sure where that goes or if I need it, I think I have another plug without that? 20231120_135420.jpgI need a coil, should I just order a stock one, everything else is now stock.
Not sure I can use the one that came with that old distributor? 20231120_132435.jpgchoke, alt & washer pump wires are in the right places. 20231120_132736.jpgthink I have to otder the wire holders, most of the old are broken. 20231120_133056.jpg
Then it was inside to warm up & work on the drums, somehow I can't stop myself, ended up almost at bare metal. 20231120_154619.jpgthe clear is still wet, but I had a lot of matt clear that I don't think I need any more so I used that since they won't show & saved the satin for up top. 20231120_161538.jpg
 
The brown wire with the yellow tracer is your neutral-safety switch connection to the starter relay. Unless there was a plug exactly like that one on a different harness (like the one I sent you) it's literally the ground wire for the relay to operate, so yes--you'd need it. I think the harness I sent you terminated in a plug for the switch on one end and a three-way connector on the other.

Not sure on the large red wire with the black extension on it. On the factory wiring diagram, the only large red wire I can find in that area should be connected to a 16ga fusible link, then to the starter relay... but it looks like you've already got a large red wire at the starter relay. Post a picture of the starter relay showing the connections on it so I can see what you've got going on there.
 
I did not plug anything in that I was not sure about, the red one on the starter realay is the one coming up from the starter as is the black one in the lower slot (they looked like they go there) I was just making sure the wires reached where I thought they should go.
Yes the neutral safety you sent is plugged into the harness that connects to the fire wall, on my side is that brown wire.
The tape or cover I was asking about would be for the harness you sent, there's a little tape here & there but mostly bare wire
I didn't drag out the wiring diagrams yet was just getting them laid out to see what else I need.
 
K I'll bring the brown over there & then shoot the pic.
I'm guessing that red to black connection they made cut out the fusible link, I think I have one or 2 just gotta check amperage to see if I can use one of them.
 
Here's the factory wiring diagram for the starter relay:

StRelay.jpg

A1E 16DBL is a 16-gauge dark blue fusible link. Its other end should be connected to a 10-gauge red wire going into Cavity 16 on the bulkhead connector.
A1A 10R is a 10-gauge red wire, the smaller of the two on the positive battery cable.

A1E 16DBL and A1A 10R both go on the same terminal, the threaded stud marked "B".

S5 12BR is the 12-gauge brown wire that goes to the starter.
S4 18BR/Y* is the wire you asked about, brown with a yellow tracer. Its other end should be plugged into the harness I sent you. It provides the ground (12V-) that allows the starter relay to work.
S1 18Y* and S2 18Y are in the same connector. These are part of the interlock system and provide the positive signal (12V+) to activate the starter relay. Obviously, these are 1974-only wires, but the color code is the same as other years (non-1974 models only have 1 wire).

The marks on the relay are simple. B S L G can easily be remembered as meaning Battery, Starter, Live, and Ground. Prior to 1974, and on many aftermarket relays, the L is replaced with an I, as in Ignition (switch).
 
OK, on the new pos. battery harness, the smaller red one heads down towards the starter & back up again, not sure if it's split out of the harness parts way down or if it goes all the way & back up, pretty sure it's the right wire for the relay post & nut.
printed out that diagram, will set that up tomorrow, even though it may all come out for a new starter relay, didn't get that yet!
 
Red to black is on there, I think the gray went right to the battery, a lot was changed on this car, but it did run like this? DSC07222.JPG
K here's a clearer one & another pic showed the gray direct to the battery terminal.
the black was the fusible link line.
DSC07239.JPG
 
The small red wire on the positive battery post goes to the B terminal on the starter relay. There should be a separate small wire (OE was brown) coming off the starter connector itself that goes to the S terminal on the relay.

On the factory wiring diagram, the fusible link is shown on the red wire which, on your car, has the black wire spliced to it. On your old setup, it looks like the link was on the small wire from the battery. It's entirely possible there was a production change, since there are at least two different 1974 E-body engine harnesses. Either way is fine, as long as you make sure there's a fusible link in there somewhere. You could even splice the old one in where that black chunk of wire is now.
 
There was another one on the main post, yellow, I suspect that was part of their bypass the relay setup, heaven knows what the 3 cut wires were for???
I'll get a pick of my new positive cable the one for S comes up from the starter as does the red for B, that comes out of the harness about half way down.
Pretty sure the gray they used was direct from the battery with no fusible link at all. Going out to freeze in a while I'll at least get this part looked into! DSC07252.JPG
 
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