Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

My lord it's only 12:30 & I actually got something accomplished!
Hung the valance, the drivers side which I had to move the bend in the quarter which I was amazed worked came out better than the side that kinda matched up! REPOPS!
20230913_111012.jpg20230913_111030.jpgI tightened up my wire hanger & it's close, I have the side to side on the new bracket centered at the moment, think I have to go to the pass. side a bit.
When I push up on the front of pipe a bit it levels off.20230913_111055.jpg
 
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Then it was follow the wire, it was a journey.
I could not find any clip for the washer pump on the engine harness.
So I pulled out the lighting harness, where it's supposed to be, I did find one clip in the general area, I don't think it would reach & it was green/R* 20230913_120140.jpg
The only other loose wire on it I think was for the fender turn signals. Which I have a set but am afraid to drill my painted fender! 20230913_120150.jpg
So with no results there I pulled out the new harness, well what do you know I may have stumbled onto it.
there is the brown in cavity 24 & it's a big AND there is a brown wire near the alternator wires & it does plug into the pump. alternator gets 3 the big one & the 2 field wires, those are there, (the shorter ones)

I forgot to check the yellow on the module, I'll try that next time out! 20230913_121417.jpg
 
Off the top of my head, I believe DGN/R* is the horn wire. No gots the information in front of me at the moment.

The valance looks good! Nice work aligning the exhaust tips... that kind of detail makes a difference!
 
OK we have contact!
#19 has continuity with the yellow on the module.
I will take another look at the lighting harness to see if I can nail down where 9 went.

In the meantime I'm going to go ahead & order the color-coded diagram, now I'm curious to see what they have on theirs!

So looks like we are good on 4, 19 & 20 at least, after I cool off a bit I might go back out on the hunt for #9, if not tomorrow!
 
I verified that the DGN/R* is the horn wire.

Looking at the wiring diagrams, the BR wire for the washer pump should definitely be BR and 18-gauge all the way from the pump to the wiper switch's W terminal (I screwed that up in my diagram on the top of page 161). The washer circuit is labeled V10. What's weird is that the bulkhead diagram at the beginning of the wiring section of the FSM says that circuit is in Cavity 9. However, elsewhere in the diagrams there's another instance of the bulkhead connector configuration, showing Circuit V10 being in Cavity 24, while circuit P5--the brake warning switch circuit (which, coincidentally is a 20-gauge BK wire, and possibly where I made my "error") is in Cavity 9.

Now, it seems to me you had continuity between the BR wire at wiper-switch W and Cavity 24, which lends credence to the second diagram. If your 18BR washer pump wire goes to that cavity on your new wiring harness, you're probably golden. Test between the pump end of the wire and the wire that goes into Cavity 24 on the new harness. I'm pretty sure it'll beep.

Just to be certain, test the engine side of Cavity 9 against the wire on your parking-brake pedal switch. If it doesn't beep, reverse the probes (there's a diode in that wire, so it'll only show continuity one way) and try again. If you have continuity there, then the second diagram makes sense, along with your continuity between Cavity 24 and the washer terminal, and it's safe to say you'll be golden when you install the harness into the bulkhead.

I'm off to scavenge a part I think you're going to need. ;)
 
Oh my, parking brake, I was working against the 2 wires that hang near the regular brake pedal, I think the parking brake line is in that mess by the door switch, added to the to do list for tomorrow!

I think I'm going nuts, I think I actually enjoyed the search, well maybe because it ended well, when I was doing HVAC service I absolutely hated electric/wiring problems!
 
My scavenging didn't go so well. Who knew that such a small component would be secured by such massive hardware?! Not me.

I walked over to my storage area but due to not having large enough wrenches, I couldn't grab what I wanted. Ah, well, there's always tomorrow. I could use the exercise anyhow. 😃
 
OK I think we're good on the bulkhead, new harness had continuity from pin to pump end.
On my light harness I have continuity from 9 to the black line that I think goes to the brake proportioning valve20230914_125629.jpg& from 9 on the bulkhead to a black wire by the E-brake, too bad I can't find what it plugs into, more parts hunting.20230914_130533.jpg
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
On my light harness I have continuity from 9 to the black line that I think goes to the brake proportioning valve& from 9 on the bulkhead to a black wire by the E-brake, too bad I can't find what it plugs into, more parts hunting.View attachment 26223
Click to expand...
The connector at the brake warning switch in the prop valve should be a hard plastic connector that pushes down over the stud on the switch.

There should be a switch on the parking-brake pedal assembly into which that bullet connector plugs.
 
So I have 2 holes in the front floor pans about 8 or so inches in front of the hole for the seat base, there were no plugs that size in the kit does something go here, it's on both sides in front of the outer seat base.
any ideas on fabing up a plug if I need to?
the one by the black sound deadener.

20230914_145826.jpg
Started messing with that sound deadener, if this is supposed to be for this car they are way off or I'm daffy.
I opened up their dotted lines & tried to fit it around the shifter mounts. 20230914_150139.jpgNothing matched, after some creative cutting this is what I have20230914_150610.jpgThe razor knife is where the hole for the linkage should be.

Out back I have to cut around the back bucket seat holes & all the seat belt bolt holes, I made more creative cuts to get that one around the rear console bracket.

I used eastwoods stick on stuff on the whole interior on the other car, took a while but I think much better results, not to mention coverage!
 
I'm not sure what those holes are. Pretty sad, really--I have 3-1/2 Challengers and nothing I can use for reference at the moment. It's hard to get the location down with the picture so close, though. Back up a couple of feet, man! 😁

Based on the dotted lines I can still see in the mat, I'd guess those whole sections are to be removed for floor-shift/console cars. You'd think they'd provide instructions with something like that. I plan to do my own sound/vibration deadening with stuff I got from McMaster-Carr. It's not listed as "automotive" since they're primarily an industrial source, but it's far cheaper than buying anything I've found that's specifically automotive (car stereo, resto places, etc.). It's the same stuff--I've used DynaMat, etc. in the past--it's just far less expensive. Good enough for a loud-ass factory, good enough for me. Plus, my car will pass an OSHA inspection. 😂
 
the dotted lines were pretty far off & I extended or added more cuts, the 2 hole bracket near the knife that's in the none existent linkage hole had no lines.
Eastwoods stuff was like dynomat I think, I even had some gummy like 1/8"thick aluminum tape I used on the front of the rear wheel wells.
anyway this stuff seems like a waste.

I'll reshoot the holes tomorrow, they are just in front of the seat near the door as the floor pan drops off.
both sides.
 
Rusty, do you have something like this in your parts pile? It originally had a red button sticking out of that hole in the top. It's the original seat-belt interlock relay from my parts car.

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100_5638.JPG

100_5639.JPG


I took it apart to see how the thing works. For the override to work, the key has to be in the RUN position. That energizes the electromagnet (red coil). Pushing down the red button causes a set of contact points to close, which complete the circuit between the START wire at the column and the starter solenoid. The contacts were held in place by the electromagnet only as long as the key was left in the RUN position. If the car didn't start and you turned the key off, you'd have to turn it back on, push the button again, then retry it. I can see why this setup was infuriating, particularly if one of the seat or belt switches failed. You'd have to open the hood and do this every single time you wanted to start the car.

100_5644.JPG


This one's been painted black (along with the rest of the engine bay) and is missing the button, but if you need it I'll gladly clean it up, internally bypass it, and send it to you (along with the factory bolts, shown). Without it, you could get by with connecting the yellow wires that plug into it with the yellow/black tracer wires that also plug into it. With this in place and bypassed, you can just connect the wires to it and the car will start normally--no silly hackjob connection, no cutting a brand-new wiring harness.
If you have yours and it's nicer, ship it to me. I can do the bypass on yours instead, then ship it back.

It mounts on the driver's-side inner fender as shown. The wiring going into it should be familiar; we've talked about it in harness pictures in the recent past.

100_5605.JPG
 
This was my bay in that area before I stripped it, I'll dig around my parts I don't think I have that, no need to clean up the outside, I can do that, the guts, that I need set up for me.
Give me tomorrow to look around & I'll post up what I do or don't find. DSC07220.JPGDSC07222.JPG
 
Looking at your photos, then back at mine, the switch appears to have been moved on the parts car. You can see where the bolt holes were on mine, which appear to have been plugged somehow. They're in the same location where the holes are on yours. Kooky.
 
So basically your just gonna pull the coil out & hide your jumpers in the box, Cool idea.
heading out there in a while I'll look through my engine bay boxes, I don't remember that & from the pics it was long gone, but I bought a bunch of ebay used parts when building the other car maybe one was thrown in with those?
 
Just got a shipping notice from year one, package tray, jute padding for it & the roof insulation are on the way, jute for divider still bo'd
but they also say carpet & underlay are on back order, I already got them I think they were drop shipped?
 
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