Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress
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RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
OK torque wrench first, my antique, with this I barley pushed on it & it read 200" lbs. 
The new one looks like you might get a lower setting, but it went way tighter than mine & never clicked
So today I looked at the paper work, clearly says 25 to 250!
Charger man, who is now the jeep man came to the rescue, from 20 to 200 inch Lbs. I'll test that out tomorrow!
Here's the books I'm using, I thought they were supposed to be reprints of the orig. ? 
Maybe I'll try this one
, not sure what's init?
The new one looks like you might get a lower setting, but it went way tighter than mine & never clickedSo today I looked at the paper work, clearly says 25 to 250!Charger man, who is now the jeep man came to the rescue, from 20 to 200 inch Lbs. I'll test that out tomorrow! Here's the books I'm using, I thought they were supposed to be reprints of the orig. ? Maybe I'll try this one, not sure what's init?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Somehow I must've got on the wrong page. I thought the fastener size looked wrong, then didn't, then remembered I was working on W2s, which have 3/8" bolts rather than 5/16". It's definitely 200lb/in, or 17lb/ft.
17lb/ft is essentially sneezing on the wrench. The black torque wrench with the blue writing is in lb/ft, so if you were trying to hit 200 on that (2,400lb/in) it's a miracle you didn't snap the bolt.
For the record, this "antique" is the most accurate torque wrench money can buy, period:
Sorry, digital and click wrench lovers. Old-fashioned beam-types always have been, and always will be, the most accurate. Not as easy to use, for sure, but unbeatable accuracy. I have a clicker myself for lb/ft, but my lb/in is a decades-old beam-type.
17lb/ft is essentially sneezing on the wrench. The black torque wrench with the blue writing is in lb/ft, so if you were trying to hit 200 on that (2,400lb/in) it's a miracle you didn't snap the bolt.
For the record, this "antique" is the most accurate torque wrench money can buy, period:
Sorry, digital and click wrench lovers. Old-fashioned beam-types always have been, and always will be, the most accurate. Not as easy to use, for sure, but unbeatable accuracy. I have a clicker myself for lb/ft, but my lb/in is a decades-old beam-type.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
I had the big wrench turned all the way down, even so it never clicked & I put some good pressure on it.
OK, if it's just a sneeze I may have been there the first time, sure didn't seem "tight" at all?
I do an experiment tomorrow, compare my old one with the new clicker I just borrowed & see how close the old girl is.
That new one better make the suspension parts go easier, or I wasted yet more money on a tool I probably will never use after this car is done!
If these are kinda just snug should I put a bead of thread locker on them?
OK, if it's just a sneeze I may have been there the first time, sure didn't seem "tight" at all?
I do an experiment tomorrow, compare my old one with the new clicker I just borrowed & see how close the old girl is.
That new one better make the suspension parts go easier, or I wasted yet more money on a tool I probably will never use after this car is done!
If these are kinda just snug should I put a bead of thread locker on them?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
If you tighten it with one wrench and check against the other and they don't agree, I'd go by whatever the beam-style wrench says.
No need for threadlocker. The factory didn't use it and they didn't install 'em any tighter than you will. Besides, two of those bolts are awash in pressurized oil, so I doubt threadlocker would do much on those two anyhow.
No need for threadlocker. The factory didn't use it and they didn't install 'em any tighter than you will. Besides, two of those bolts are awash in pressurized oil, so I doubt threadlocker would do much on those two anyhow.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
OK, I'll post my scientific findings tomorrow ! tee hee
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Gracias.
It's on my shelf, if someone needs it before I get around to using it, just say the word.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
I hope someday it will be used, in any case it's better than being in that pile in the PU heading for the scrap yard!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
So at 200" I could feel the click in the little one pretty good, did mine but reading my wrench was tough it's barley any pressure & it goes over, so I set the shaft bolts with the little clicker.
The valve covers at 40 were impossible on mine, it took me quite a white to realize the click was not even audible at 40" finally noticed the ratchet would do that little shift at the click & that I could see, so valve covers are on, one side done, when the parts from Jass get here I'll finish off the other side!
I added the little spreaders that came off the chrome ones, figured it couldn't hurt to spread the pressure, I had flattened out all the bolt holes when I was cleaning them up.
Moved inside & got a few coats of SEM on the light insert, that's done, cept for a few scratched areas, which I probably could have puttied up it looks pretty good! 
Then cleaned up the hardware I pulled off the manifold, the studs I defiantly need the other fittings not sure, I forget if that little off shoot on the one went anywhere, the one on the 71 manifold does not have it?
& finally dumped out the buckets of hoisting hardware mark had, have to get the motor in the air so I can finish off the back, cleaning, painting & freeze out plugs.
Not sure where I should hook up to, I'd like to drop motor & tranny in together!
The valve covers at 40 were impossible on mine, it took me quite a white to realize the click was not even audible at 40" finally noticed the ratchet would do that little shift at the click & that I could see, so valve covers are on, one side done, when the parts from Jass get here I'll finish off the other side!
I added the little spreaders that came off the chrome ones, figured it couldn't hurt to spread the pressure, I had flattened out all the bolt holes when I was cleaning them up.
Moved inside & got a few coats of SEM on the light insert, that's done, cept for a few scratched areas, which I probably could have puttied up it looks pretty good! Then cleaned up the hardware I pulled off the manifold, the studs I defiantly need the other fittings not sure, I forget if that little off shoot on the one went anywhere, the one on the 71 manifold does not have it?& finally dumped out the buckets of hoisting hardware mark had, have to get the motor in the air so I can finish off the back, cleaning, painting & freeze out plugs.Not sure where I should hook up to, I'd like to drop motor & tranny in together!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I pulled an engine/trans together once by myself. I ended up with it as high as it would go and tilted basically straight up and down to get it over the radiator support. Would have probably worked better with help. I went back to dealing with the engine/trans separately, at least as long as I have to do it alone.
I've seen recommendations to raise the rear end of the car up as high as you can so the tailshaft has more room to tilt. Alternatively you could drop the k-frame, bolt the engine to it, and come up from the bottom. That never seemed like it's less work to me but I've been assured it's easier that way.
In your case I'd bolt that lifting plate to the intake and hook the chain in the frontmost hole to give it as much tilt as possible. I had a cheap tilter - yours looks like a better piece because it has acme threads. Mine started stripping the threads while I had the motor on it - great fun that - but they were just plain old threads on a piece of junk tilter.
I've seen recommendations to raise the rear end of the car up as high as you can so the tailshaft has more room to tilt. Alternatively you could drop the k-frame, bolt the engine to it, and come up from the bottom. That never seemed like it's less work to me but I've been assured it's easier that way.
In your case I'd bolt that lifting plate to the intake and hook the chain in the frontmost hole to give it as much tilt as possible. I had a cheap tilter - yours looks like a better piece because it has acme threads. Mine started stripping the threads while I had the motor on it - great fun that - but they were just plain old threads on a piece of junk tilter.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
I wanted to do it that way on the first car, the 340 bros were here helping my & nixed it & put the tranny in from the bottom, I don't think I could have held up my side if I was the other guy, I did a mopar 4 speed from the bottom on my 65 satellite, I was 20 something & barely made it!
Now I'm 71 & can't imagine I would survive it!
Now I'm 71 & can't imagine I would survive it!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
4 speeds aren't bad. Put the engine in with the bellhousing and clutch installed and aligned, cut the heads off some bolts or use studs in the two bottom holes, and add one of these on a concrete floor.
450 lb. Low Lift Transmission Jack
I use that jack for all kinds of stuff. For example I rigged up a way to lift a door, hold a quarter in place, install the rear end, etc.
Another trick if you have trouble getting the input shaft splines to line up with the clutch is to stick it in two gears, so when you twist the transmission to align it, the splines move with the transmission. that risks the chance that you can't get it back out of gear once it's in though
but I've seen it work before.
I agree, without that jack there's no way I would try to install a transmission. I had a hard enough time with them when I was young and had help.
I'll probably end up pulling and installing the Duster engine/trans as two pieces. I know it's not but dropping the k-frame seems like more hassle to me. Although, not having to remove the hood is a definite benefit. I've already rebuilt the front end and brakes, it seems a shame to take that back apart. I've got headers so I will definitely pull the steering column to get it out of the way.
450 lb. Low Lift Transmission Jack
I use that jack for all kinds of stuff. For example I rigged up a way to lift a door, hold a quarter in place, install the rear end, etc.
Another trick if you have trouble getting the input shaft splines to line up with the clutch is to stick it in two gears, so when you twist the transmission to align it, the splines move with the transmission. that risks the chance that you can't get it back out of gear once it's in though
but I've seen it work before.I agree, without that jack there's no way I would try to install a transmission. I had a hard enough time with them when I was young and had help.
I'll probably end up pulling and installing the Duster engine/trans as two pieces. I know it's not but dropping the k-frame seems like more hassle to me. Although, not having to remove the hood is a definite benefit. I've already rebuilt the front end and brakes, it seems a shame to take that back apart. I've got headers so I will definitely pull the steering column to get it out of the way.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
I don't want any more tools here, most of what I have will either be given away or junked, there's a ton of money out there, don't think any of my boys will need much more then the drills & sawsalls?
this is auto pretty sure I pulled em out together in any cas I was just out messing with the hoist problems I see already to follow!
this is auto pretty sure I pulled em out together in any cas I was just out messing with the hoist problems I see already to follow!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
OK finally remembered to look for the bolt hole, it is there, but lining it up with the one on the inner fender it's about 2" off the hole in the tray, still in the recessed area so I can just drill another hole! 
So hoist is rigged, for now just took the weight off & it seems pretty level.
1st Question, the only bolts I could find for the hook up to the plate were front bumper bracket bolts, are they strong enough for this? (the black ones..............)
Weight off the stand
Now I'm looking at the extension of the lift, not sure how much higher that will go, I have the car up pretty high (top of the jack stands)
Car is way up?
So hoist is rigged, for now just took the weight off & it seems pretty level.1st Question, the only bolts I could find for the hook up to the plate were front bumper bracket bolts, are they strong enough for this? (the black ones..............)
Weight off the stand
Now I'm looking at the extension of the lift, not sure how much higher that will go, I have the car up pretty high (top of the jack stands)Car is way up?
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b-body-bob
Well-known member
Can you set the front of the car down on wheels/tires?
IIRC I bolted the tilter gadget to the heads when I used mine.
Those bumper bracket bolts should be fine.
IIRC I bolted the tilter gadget to the heads when I used mine.
Those bumper bracket bolts should be fine.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Got the wheels ready but no tires.
My friend was over, suggested 2 more chains to the back of the heads, catty corner.
Worried carb studs may not be up to the added weight of the tranny, better safe than sorry!
When I extend the hoist I'll see just how much I have to lower the front, I still have to get under there for the tranny mounts!
Then I remembered (wow I woke up) I have to order the exhaust system, at least on the pass. side I have to lay the header in there before the motor.
My friend was over, suggested 2 more chains to the back of the heads, catty corner.
Worried carb studs may not be up to the added weight of the tranny, better safe than sorry!
When I extend the hoist I'll see just how much I have to lower the front, I still have to get under there for the tranny mounts!
Then I remembered (wow I woke up) I have to order the exhaust system, at least on the pass. side I have to lay the header in there before the motor.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
The lift plates seem sketchy to me too, but I've never heard of them being a problem. Never used one either. I bought one to lift the engine out of my A12 but didn't use it because I found some crummy threads in the intake so I just bolted to the heads and lifted it out. Just be sure to use good washers where you bolt the chain on and you'll be OK.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
We have 2 more of those plates that I attached to the lifting plate, just have to play with the length to try & get them all taunt.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
So the other bumper filler I found looked a bit cleaner that the one I put on so I switched that out today..........
Then noticed part of a throolt set up on the bench, think this was left over from the 73
So I went digging around, top right came off the 74, I had stolen that kick down linkage for the 73, all the black parts are off a replacement I got off ebay.
I hope I can make it right with something in this mess!
& finally dug out the lens & covers for the parking light insert, worn but not too bad? 
Then noticed part of a throolt set up on the bench, think this was left over from the 73
So I went digging around, top right came off the 74, I had stolen that kick down linkage for the 73, all the black parts are off a replacement I got off ebay.I hope I can make it right with something in this mess!
& finally dug out the lens & covers for the parking light insert, worn but not too bad?
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Got the extra chains on, slowly lifted it up, she spun a little but all 4 chains are nice and taut so I removed the stand
Cleaned it up a bit & got the freeze out plugs done, got lucky that big middle one was just a bead of silicone, not JB weld!
shot the primer on & painted it blue, forgot that pic.
Now should I mess with the screw in ones where they are exposed in the back, or leave well enough alone?
I also have 3 small freeze outs in the kit, but did not locate any on my block, are they for a different engine or am I missing something?
Cleaned it up a bit & got the freeze out plugs done, got lucky that big middle one was just a bead of silicone, not JB weld!
shot the primer on & painted it blue, forgot that pic.
Now should I mess with the screw in ones where they are exposed in the back, or leave well enough alone?
I also have 3 small freeze outs in the kit, but did not locate any on my block, are they for a different engine or am I missing something?