I'm confused on the silicone deal, you said it won't last, then you say silicone front & rear instead of the cork gasket?
That's not what I said at all. I said:
Silicone is not fuel-resistant, so it's not even suitable as a temporary repair. It should never be used on the intake-to-head junction or carb gaskets. It will not last even a little while, regardless of color.
Then, on a completely unrelated part of the intake manifold, I said:
...due to the age of, and God-knows-what's been done to, these engine parts, the intake-manifold front & rear end seals seem to create more problems than they solve and should always be left out. Silicone only, with the intake installed after the silicone has "skinned over" but not fully cured.
Since there is no fuel at the end seals, I fail to see how this could create any confusion.
Regardless, the end seals are the cause of probably 90% of vacuum leaks on LA engines. They hold the manifold up off the block, causing an inefficient seal at the manifold to cylinder head junction. This is true of even the ultra-soft spongy grey ones. When the intake gets torqued, the manifold can flex under the stress, causing the top half of that joint to come together, and the lower half open to the cam valley. When this is the case, removing the intake shows oil tracking from the bottom of the intake gaskets to the intake port openings.
I have successfully drilled an Edelbrock manifold to accommodate the roll pin for the cork gaskets, but I don't see any way you'd be successful putting the cork gaskets on without the roll pin. I also recently read of tight intake bolts caused by the cork being too thick or too thin.
None of my blocks have any roll pins on either end, including the two that were factory-assembled when I took them apart. But I have seen them on other blocks. They should be removed and discarded since they serve no purpose outside of the engine assembly plant.
Going back to "the age of, and God-knows-what's been done to, these engine parts", things warp, heads or intakes could've been milled, aftermarket parts may not have the same tolerances as factory, etc. We have no idea what's been done when we start an engine project. That's why the roll pins should be removed/discarded if present and the end seals can take their place next to 'em in the trash can.
In addition to myself, Stretch, diplomat_wagon, and several offline friends have had this exact vacuum issue on LA engines (and Chevy small-blocks) when the end seals were used. Removing them solved the problem.
2 -I will recheck the interlock plugs.
3-also will double check the plug for the signals at the column, it was in pretty clean shape.
If the dash lights are the only issue, then don't bother with either.
Turn signals did not work with key in run, but not running, start the car & they work, have no idea why maybe something to do with the other problem.
This makes zero sense. It's literally
not possible, since they're switched by the key, not the engine, and the engine has absolutely no input on lighting. Are you sure the key was in RUN or was it in the first stop position that unlocks the column? That position has no electrical function, it literally just unlocks the column. The RUN position is where the key rests just prior to, and after, starting the engine--literally the last stop before it tries to start.
All the lights you mentioned radio, shifter dash are the ones that are out, headlights, markers, parking lights, & now even the back up lights work.
If you have taillights and side markers, then the problem
has to be dimmer-related. It's either a faulty switch, the switch is not connected, it's not being fed by the headlamp switch, or you have a broken wire somewhere along its run.
Here's a simple test: With the key in RUN position, run a jumper wire from the red triple tap to the orange triple tap. Regardless of whether the lights are on, the dash lights should illuminate. If they don't, either you've got a ground issue (which I doubt, especially if the gauges work) or you don't have the key all the way in the RUN position.
