...also has one of those Leece neville 160 amp(?) alternators.
Actually, it's a Motorola 100A. I'm not sure where the parts houses started calling them Leece-Neville, unless that was a HD alternator vendor for Chrysler at some point of which I'm not aware (maybe MD/HD trucks).
Hell of a score! On the converter questions, I'd recommend the lowest-stall converter you can find for plowing. That would mean a diesel unit, preferably 11" or 12" in diameter. The one thing you need to figure out before ordering one is whether your trans is a lockup version. Non-lockup converters won't fit a lockup trans, and vice-versa due to a different spline count (23 lockup, 24 non if memory serves). Being an '85, you're in that weird era where it could be either/or. Just guessing, I'd say it's a lockup. Avoid B&M like the plague where converters are concerned. Although it's probably out of the question because of price, places like Precision can build a billet-front converter to your specs. A friend just recently had one made for his (now ex) girlfriend's 5.3L Grand Prix G-whateverthefuck. I'm not sure what he paid, but it definitely wasn't reman/TCI Street Fighter pricing. On the other hand, how many times do you want to do this? The converter is the biggest source of heat.
As I've mentioned in past trans-rebuild posts, I hope you specified a kit with either Alto "Red Eagle" or Raybestos Blue clutches, and using cast-iron bands rather than the crappy stamped units. Stamped bands stretch and have less cooling capability due to their lower mass. In a situation like plowing, it'll definitely make a huge difference in longevity to have the top-shelf (often overstated as "race") parts. Typical "hot rod" tricks still apply here: fling the accumulator spring, crank up the line pressure, and use Ford Type F/FA fluid or ATF+4 (I still prefer the Ford stuff).
Stay after your band adjustments. The bands are going to see a ton of apply/release cycles in a plow application, and if your replacements are indeed the stamped/spot-welded variety, they're prone to stretching. Loose bands generate more heat and wear. That's why Chrysler didn't use that style band except in low-power applications, like 904s and everything built during the smog era. They had that 5/50 warranty to consider.
If it's a dedicated plow rig that will rarely leave the yard, a fixed flex fan is actually a good idea. It's about the only time that's the case.
I would not suggest connecting the trans-cooler switch to the 4WD light. Transmission fluid being too
cool is as much a concern as too
hot. It's both a lubricant and hydraulic fluid. Your best option would be to use a typical automotive electric-fan switch to read the trans fluid temp and activate the fan automatically. Also, don't bypass the fluid cooler in the transmission; it's much more effective than an air-cooled unit no matter how large. On the subject of size, an '80s FWD-application
AC condenser makes for a dandy HD trans cooler.
I'd also like to toss out the idea of completely draining your diffs and transfer case and refilling them with quality synthetics (I'm a big Royal Purple fan). They'll run cooler and last longer. A Sure Grip rear, at least at one point, was part of the Sno-Commander/Sno-Fighter packages. That truck would've had a Borg-Warner Anti-Spin diff (cone type) if it came with one; depending on miles/usage it might be pretty tired. It's not difficult to pop the diff out, removed the cones and have them milled to restore function, but for max longevity of the diff's internal gears it's a good idea to place a
steel shim of at least half the thickness milled from the cones between the cones and the side gears. On the 8.75" B-W units, I used shims that fit perfectly, found behind the side gears of 8.75"
open diffs. You could likely use pinion-depth shims in this application. If your going synthetic on the refill, check to see if your chosen brand still requires a hypoid additive. If it does, get a synthetic there as well.
The most-enjoyable way to test the function of a Sure Grip is to get that annoying adolescent neighbor kid to help you. Jack the truck up by the axle, placing it on stands, and tell the little peckerhead, "Hold that tire still with everything you've got." Give your tire a mighty rotational heave. If you flip the mouthy bastard on his head, your Sure Grip likely needs no more attention than a fluid change.
Anyway since I had the starter out I figured I would toss that old 15lb beast and install one of my Junk yard high torque mini starters.
