Procrastination

Dr.Jass

Pastor of Muppets
Sometimes, it pays off.

When I dropped my J heads off at the machine shop years ago for the ton of work that needed to be done to them (cleaning, magnafluxing, modifiying the titanium valves to my desired size, totally-new valve guides instead of inserts for the smaller stems, valve job, spot-facing the valvespring seats, throat cut, resurfacing, and more), I was told the total ticket was going to be around $800. The machinist was doing some of the work at home, for which I'd directly pay him and the rest to the store with the machine shop--a competitor, no less. :doh: That would include Dave's home labor as well that at the shop.

I finally picked 'em up. I'd already paid Dave $150 a few years ago or so for modifying the valves, but I needed to square up with CarQuest and I wanted the heads so I can work on them next week while I'm on vacation.

So, I went over to square up today and pick up the heads, which still aren't assembled since I'm going to do porting on 'em. Dave told me he still hadn't resurfaced 'em since I wanted to cc them, and that he'd do the "finish" valve job when I'd finished in case I had a mishap and bumped a seat with a bur. I told him I wanted to make sure everything was paid now, so he tallied up the bill.

$332, including parts (including the parts: hardened seats, new guides, inner springs, and valve seals). :dance:

My guess? Over the last few years, some stuff was forgotten. There may be other factors which I won't explore here... but I expected to have around $1000 total into these heads, and I've got just over $600 including Lunati outer springs, Comp inners, Del West titanium locks and retainers, Del West titanium intake valves and Manley titanium exhausts (I might have that reversed), upgrading my rockers to Comp adjusters, the correct Comp chrome-moly pushrods for my application, and all the machine work.

Call me happy.
 
Good Deal Dr. Jass:
My set of 'J' heads were freshened up last summer.
I had triple valve springs (double with a damper) & a few of them were broken so they replaced the spring to a double setup.
340heads006.jpg

Also had them paint the insides and change the guides.
340heads006.jpg

340heads001.jpg

340heads008.jpg

Porting is already done & they have been shaved .060"
340heads002.jpg

340heads003.jpg


I'll be on the lookout for roller rockers soon........
 
I hate to say it 76, but as pretty as those are, .060" is an ill-advised cut on any LA head. The factory deck surfaces aren't all that thick, and with only 10 bolts clamping them to the block it's a recipe for warpage if not outright cracking. 68R/T will likely back me up on this; he did a similar cut on the 360 he used to have in his WaGoon and the results weren't good... bad enough, in fact, that he switched to a 440. You might be OK with MLS gaskets, but that's going to offset some of your milling as they tend to be thick.

I'm only going off my own experience and others may have had success beyond this, but I consider .025" to be the max deck cut on an LA head; .030" is on the ragged edge. I've already got head gaskets with a .020" compressed thickness. I'm going to cc my Js, and if I have to cut 'em beyond .020" to get to my desired compression, I'm just going to live with the lower number rather than blow gaskets or warp heads. Sure, the power will be down but reliability is what I'm chasing more than anything. Remember, I've got titanium everything (valves/locks/retainers). Even though I got away inexpensively on the machine work, I don't want to start over with another set of castings--nor do I want to have to purchase all this titanium stuff a second time. It's not cheap, even when it's cheap... at least, on my income.
 
Like Doc said, I did the .060 cut and problem I had, almost instantly, was sealing of the intake. A .060 cut lowers the heads to the point that the base of the intake won't allow it to properly align. You might get by if you mill the base of the intake. I would torque the heads and dry-fit the intake to try to guage your clearance. There is a very small margin of error. Alignment has to be dead-on. [smilie=f:

I went 440 'cuz I've always preferred the BB's anyway. :toot:
 
I did have those heads on my 360 motor when it was in my F-Body. I ran a Torker II intake at the time and yes the bolt holes were a little off. Ran a .509 cam as well. Never did have a sealing issue with them. Now when I got those heads I was told they were shaved but wasn't told how much. I did cc them and the chambers are 60 cc's. Hopefully they will live with the new .030 over 360 motor.
 
You can fix the bolt misalignment by having the intake faces cut... if they were shaved .060" it's a must. Each head should be milled around .057" on the intake side, and voila!, your bolt holes and ports are realigned (and sealing!).
 
You still need to make sure that you have adequate clearance between the base of the intake & the block. You may get by without using the rubber seals and just put down a coat of silicone.
 

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top