Popping back in after the move....

[thrashingcows]

Well been away for a few months now....things are starting to settle down now here at the new place, so have some spare time to update and interact on some of my forums. Did a bit of reading this evening, and started to catch up on some of the doin's that have been going on while I have been absent. Will be updating my build threads and such as well.

Will see you on the board regularly I hope....

 

[Dr.Jass]

Glad to see you're back, and that you're getting settled in your new homestead!

 

[Jester]

Welcome back! enjoy the new digs

 

[dodgechargerfan]

Welcome back!
I hope all went well with the move.

 

[thrashingcows]

Thanks guys. The move went well, but still trying to settle in. Big life style change going from high population, compact suburbia to living on acreage out side of town.....probably less then 100 people in my area now and no one with less then 4-5 acres. Pretty happy though, even the wife who was city born and raised. Daughters have adjusted well and are liking life up here.

Pic of the house just after moving in....

 

[68R/T]

That looks like a personal paradise. Room to have what you want and do what you like. My only question would be cost to heat. :hmmm:

 

[Jester]

Perfect place to live out the impending Zombie Apocalypse. Jester approved!

 

[thrashingcows]

That looks like a personal paradise. Room to have what you want and do what you like. My only question would be cost to heat. :hmmm:

I'm amazed that even way outside of town where we are....actually outside city limits and in the regional district...we have natural gas. House is built very well, and built FOR the high efficiency furnace. We barely run the heat even now. We have a gas fireplace in the living room, but would like to tear it out and put in a free standing wood burner. I have a TON of dead fall around the property, and love the feel of wood heat as well.

But costs...time will tell.

 

[Stretch]

Nice move Cow! Living in a unpopulated area is the only way to live! Looking forward to seeing some shop pictures when you get the chance to get settled into that too.

 

[thrashingcows]

Nice move Cow! Living in a unpopulated area is the only way to live! Looking forward to seeing some shop pictures when you get the chance to get settled into that too.

Only have the two car garage.....have to start building a shop next spring/summer. Wagon on one side, wife's car on the other.....wish I could keep her out, but that was a concession I had to make to keep her happy.

Probably looking at a 3 bay shop, 40 x 40....or some where around that size. Want a big door in the center bay...12' high at least, then 7-8 footers to each side.

 

[69.5CUDA]

"if" you can find used doors youll save a small fortune on the build...something else to consider now that your out where its colder..the more doors youve got the harder it is to keep heat in

as for 40x40..."if" your working all the way around something youll quickly find it taking 20x20 of space lol....so if you want room for 3..id recomend going to 60x30 or 60x40....tho youll makeup some of it in that 40 deep its the close quarters side by side that becomes the pain

 

[thrashingcows]

Never thought about roll up doors costing a small fortune....will keep that in mind and start looking for some now. Even if I have to drive several hours to get them, I now have a trailer, and the truck is easy on fuel and a couple tanks of diesel would be cheaper in the end.

I will ultimately have to see where I can build the shop....most of our land is very hilly and uneven, so that will dictate a few things. Also have to see where the permits will allow me to build.

 

[68R/T]

.... Also have to see where the permits will allow me to build.

As a general rule, most building codes state that any building within 10' of another building has to have a firewall and be at least 20' from property line. Also some local codes may limit height on a wood trussed building. Building codes always differ because of local weather, snowfall, rain, etc.

 

[thrashingcows]

As a general rule, most building codes state that any building within 10' of another building has to have a firewall and be at least 20' from property line. Also some local codes may limit height on a wood trussed building. Building codes always differ because of local weather, snowfall, rain, etc.

For the most part there are no fences or marked property lines up here....just properties that all back onto each other and no one has any major cleared areas. I will be getting a surveying company to come in an mark out my property lines so I know what's mine and where I can build. Definitely have to look at snowfall codes on the shop.

 

[69.5CUDA]

you have a bobcat..so basic land clearing isnt out of the question!!!!...imo id rather "dig in" and have some extra foundation rather than just flat on the ground....i think of it as a rain stop ...anything you spend on the concrete you will save on the steel for the building which could be used elsewhere like awnings for the doors most specificly the man door so your not getting poured on while unlocking..mini ones over your garage doors will also keep water from coming in under the doors

extra side note a "kit" is what i assume youll buy....said kits charge more for openings for the doors while requiring less steel...order a simple one with ZERO doors save for a man door...the BIG bonus here is that while you will have to buy a couple 2x6's youll pay less overall , be able to put the doors where YOU want them and when you put those doors in youll have all that extra siding....and with the doors you want thats enuf siding to build a 10x10 shed....or a small extension off the building as a compressor room or such.....or heck..just having the panels around for repairs is gold

some places the lowest kit you can get is the "farm" type which has 1 MASSIVE door on tracks..delete track and wall it up durring the build instead

 

[thrashingcows]

you have a bobcat..so basic land clearing isnt out of the question!!!!...imo id rather "dig in" and have some extra foundation rather than just flat on the ground....i think of it as a rain stop ...anything you spend on the concrete you will save on the steel for the building which could be used elsewhere like awnings for the doors most specificly the man door so your not getting poured on while unlocking..mini ones over your garage doors will also keep water from coming in under the doors

extra side note a "kit" is what i assume youll buy....said kits charge more for openings for the doors while requiring less steel...order a simple one with ZERO doors save for a man door...the BIG bonus here is that while you will have to buy a couple 2x6's youll pay less overall , be able to put the doors where YOU want them and when you put those doors in youll have all that extra siding....and with the doors you want thats enuf siding to build a 10x10 shed....or a small extension off the building as a compressor room or such.....or heck..just having the panels around for repairs is gold

some places the lowest kit you can get is the "farm" type which has 1 MASSIVE door on tracks..delete track and wall it up durring the build instead

That is darn good advice 69....I appreciate it! :2thumbs:

 

[thrashingcows]

I have a spot picked out already, and hope there won't be any property line issues or any other issues for permits. It's close tot he main power lines running down and to the house, so I'll be able to get full power strung to the shop very easily, with no additional poles I don't think. And yes the land clearing with the Case was definitely one of the reasons I wanted the machine.

And I was going to be looking at one of those "kits"...but never thought about the extra cost when adding doors and windows. I have no problem modifying the plans.....I did that with the shed at my old house, I wanted a 12 x 16, but they did not offer one in that size, so I ordered a 10x 20 and modified things to fit my needs. Added a 12" pony wall to build the shed on top of, so the roof was about 8' inside, and added a proper door and window. After all that, and careful planning I didn't even have to order any extra siding or cedar roofing.

 

[69.5CUDA]

just like buying a new car...they dont tell you that the price they show you is the base model without anything LOL...i also had found that some sizes are cheeper than others even if larger...so dont get dead set in a size or configuration of being square vs rectangle

 

[thrashingcows]

just like buying a new car...they dont tell you that the price they show you is the base model without anything LOL...i also had found that some sizes are cheeper than others even if larger...so dont get dead set in a size or configuration of being square vs rectangle

Damn with all this sagely advice I almost want to call you 68.....:shifty:....

 

[68R/T]

I have a spot picked out already, and hope there won't be any property line issues or any other issues for permits. It's close tot he main power lines running down and to the house, so I'll be able to get full power strung to the shop very easily, with no additional poles I don't think.

You don't want a separate incoming line. That would mean the cost of another meter and another, separate bill. Electric companies charge a standard monthly hook-up fee per meter.

Running 220v service is easy if you have basic knowledge of household wiring. First make sure you have ample service to the house. 200 amp service is desirable, but 100 amp will suffice, depending on how much equipment you run.

If your panel has space for another 220v breaker, you're good to go. If not, that's the first thing to remedy. From there run 8 awg underground in plastic conduit to the outbuilding. Most codes specify a minimum of 18" coverage. But if you're on your own, 8-10" is good. Depending on local codes you may be able to do this without a permit. (I did for mine) Then again, what they don't know won't hurt. :silenced: You probably want a 100 amp breaker in-house to the shed. In the shed you can go either with 60 or 100 amp, depending on usage.

I wired my 2 garages as therapy after my rotator cuff surgery. :doh: