Patriotic Challenger Ass

The best way to treat a small block is put lots of carbs on it and call it a day. :toot:
 
When you're using an AVS or ThermoQuad, the only way to overcarburete it is to not know how to set up your carb. ThermoQuads came only in three sizes: HugeByLarge, HolyShit, and YouGottaBeShittinMe (800, 850, and 1,000CFM). Yet they run perfectly on either a 273 or 440 with just an air-door adjustment. It's almost impossible to overcarb with an AFB as well since it also has a secondary air door, but that archaic design is non-adjustable. That's one of the multitude of reasons literally every manufacturer bailed on it in '67. The only reason Chrysler kept them on the Street Hemi was cost. They were already losing money on each one they built anyhow, so they refused to spend any more money on an induction system that almost worked. Half the guys just liked having dual quads, and the other half swapped out to something better anyhow (like a large single carb).

Having ridden in 68R/T's Coronet sedan, I can testify that it runs very well and doesn't dump black smoke under hard acceleration. The engine only takes what it needs, which means it's not feeding from the secondaries all that much.
 
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I didn't realize 68 was running vacuum secondaries, that makes way more sense than the two mysterious mechanical secondary carbs I had swimming around in my brain.. Don't know what they would have been, just what my imagination conjured up when it heard dual quads.
 
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Well, the first thing that pops to mind for me when someone says "dual quads" is a Pro Stock intake, so I can't say I blame you there.

I think his layout is actually one AFB and one AVS, but he'll chime in and correct me.
 
Yeah, I originally said Tquads.. I've never seen that either, but the thought of it might make my pants a little tight
 
Dr.Jass said:
I think his layout is actually one AFB and one AVS, but he'll chime in and correct me.
Click to expand...

Right-o, a couple of ebay specials. The primary is a 625cfm, AFB, either a non-oem Carter or eddy, (I can't remember) and the secondary is (I think) a 69 oem Carter 750 AVS. That makes 1375 cfm dumping into a bone stock 318. And the linkage is mechanical progressive that I fabbed up;

4dr motor.jpeg
 
Stretch, let me get it off and see what kind of shape it's in. I know my buddy doesn't care about it, but while he needs to raise funds for his car, I don't want to rake you over the coals for it either.
 
image.jpegAlright.. There's a better way. Who sells the tool to do this? The kits you rent from Trash auto don't have the correct pieces to pull them out. I can get them in on my press, but always have to torch them out and split the casings with a hacksaw.. So much bullshit
 
if you have a press you have no excuse.....you just need to rig a spacer between them......hell ive put LOTS of them in over the years in a bench vice
 
I do them so infrequently, I always forget how I did them before.. I think I rigged something up once, but couldn't keep the downward force going straight down.. I can't remember if the arm kept slipping out, or part of it was getting crushed, or what.. Putting them in is the easy part, everything's all nice and clean, and I usually chuck the bushings in the freezer first. Getting them out without the outer shell mushrooming and getting stuck, is what I can't figure out.
 
I put the new ones in the freezer. I use my ball joint press kit to remove and install them. I push the centers out of the sleeve in the old ones with the ball joint press then use my air chisel/hammer to remove the sleeve. I use my ball joint press kit or my press to install them. If I use the press I make a spacer to hold the A-arm open.
 
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