A guy at FABO suggested I must not have cleaned it enough, because it still isn't working right. Because they only thing that could be wrong with it is it's dirty. OK then.The answer to how can you test, before installation, stand the lifter in a pan with a very low weight oil, (5w-10, or less), deep enough to cover the oil hole. Pump it full with a phillips screwdriver. Remove from pan, let set for period of time, and test for firmness of plunger.
I dumped the initial break-in oil and replaced it with another fill of the same that's still in there. So zinc shouldn't be a problem.With a fair amount of zinc additive I doubt that you'd have an issue.
I remember back when I was a pup you would pump lifters up until they were solid before installing them.
I agree with you.Might be wise to only work on those that are questionable. To your knowledge the rest are working correctly. The less new metal against that cam the better.
Can the lifters be noisy on startup after the engine has been sitting for a while?
Yes, they definitely can. When the engine is shut off, some of the lifters may not be on the cam base circles, but may instead be on the lift portion of the lobes. If that happens, the lifter is under constant load from the valve spring holding the valve open. Eventually, the force will bleed the oil out of the lifter, resulting in clearance during the next engine re-start. The engine will clatter momentarily until the lifter refills with oil to take up the clearance. High ratio rocker arms, strong valve springs, and high lift cam lobes all contribute to this situation. In reality, the lifter wouldn't function without its ability to bleed down under load. So, there's no way to completely avoid it.