Last night

71ChargerRT

Well-known member
A friend called and had to move her truck and trailer back to her storage... I had no idea one had been placed on top of the other.

Gave the ol' Cummins a workout . As you'll notice by the size of the front hubs, that's an F550, with a 10' steel bed including ladder rack. If it had to be moved more than I few miles I would have declined.






But, while I was there I saw this, I want to go back during daylight hours and take another look.

 
Well, it was heavy. Had it been earlier in the day, or a longer trip than it had been I would not have done it. I think it was just over 3-1/2 miles at 9:30 at night. I know what my truck is capable of and that was just over the line.

Speaking of, what is the difference between the dually and SRW rear axle assembly? I've been kicking that swap around for a while along with a steel flat bed. I want to make this a purely work truck/tow rig and find another truck to daily drive. Preferably something like Thrashing Cows' truck or another Club Cab Dakota R/T.
 
The dually assembly is narrower hub to hub. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think there's any other difference. The internals of the pumpkin are the same. Buddy of mine put carrier and pinion gear out of an '06 2500 into his '06 dually when his stock stuff wore out. Now that he changes the oil in it semi-regularly, he's had no more trouble out of the AAM axle.
 
Cool, so If I bought a set of wheels and the front wheel adapters I should be good to go with a dually flat bed.
 
As V8440 mentioned the DRW axle generally has a narrower width...backing plate to backing plate, then the SRW axle. But if your not going to run a dually box, then yeah a set of dually rear rims, and adapters for the front and you should be golden.

The problem with the modern axles is the darn synthetic fluid they run. My diff guy said he makes a ton of money from the factory trucks with synthetic fluid in them. They seem to last until the warranty is up, then need a complete rebuild. Most OEM trucks who have synthetic fluid in the diffs don't get used enough to take advantage of the positive properties of synthetic diff fluid, and in the end cause more harm then good. He recommends just plain old gear oil...lucas 85W140 I believe is what he recommended to me.

That Imp looks like a 69/70...maybe 71?
 
Your diff guy has been sniffing axle lube too long. That statement makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. First, average miles driven per year has been at a steady increase since the dawn of the automobile, and second, synthetic lube has no "warm-up" or "break-in" period. The difference is in raw materials, design changes, and workmanship. Dana axles in particular went downhill badly in the '90s, and many of the most failure-prone axles did not have synthetic either as factory fill or recommended.

People who blame synthetics are the same people that still insist on non-detergent 30W for their old tractors and think race engines need 20W-50 or heavier oil, both of which are also complete bunk. Your 9N will run longer and stay cleaner inside with a detergent oil due to lack of sludge buildup. Professional racers still might have some 20W-50 lying around for their manual transmissions, but they haven't used it in a crankcase in 25 years or more.
 
Bah! Art pulled a loaded 53' semi uphill... with a factory clutch. :dance: :D

He sure did. I witnessed it first hand. He was just calmly letting the clutch out at a traffic light like it was just another ride and the truck driver had his cell in his ear and a complete look of disbelief on his face.
 
He sure did. I witnessed it first hand. He was just calmly letting the clutch out at a traffic light like it was just another ride and the truck driver had his cell in his ear and a complete look of disbelief on his face.

That would have been darn entertaining to see.

A friend of mine pulled a dead commercial truck through an intersection....Computer for the Allison tranny went poof. He used a little ford ranger extended cab...V6 and a 5 spd to do it.
 

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