OK, in the interest of fair disclosure I must tell you that running a Six Pack intake on a set of W2/W5 heads is not only possible, it's been done probably dozens of times. Is it easy? No. Inexpensive? Well, you work with machine tools so that may offset some of it but overall, no. It's also essentially irreversible, so if your intake has a Chrysler part number cast in it I definitely would not recommend it on that intake. It involves a whole bunch of TIG welding, redrilling, and tedious hand porting to work correctly. It's not really for the faint of heart, nor is it something I'd recommend attempting at home. It also looks like ass unless you really want to spend a lot of time with the die grinder. I have not seen one used on a stroker, but I would think the fact that it's a dual-plane intake wouldn't be as much of a detriment in that configuration as it would be on a stock-stroke engine.
One other possibility that would work would be "W1" heads, the 1970 T/A heads. Originals are obviously expensive but I had a set offered to me within the last year (I can't remember who it was, though) and Mopar Performance catalogued reproduction versions of them for a long time. You absolutely need the oddball rocker arms, which MP sold for many years as well. The T/A heads had the intake pushrods moved outboard from the intake ports, which allowed grinding that enormous clearance hump away for a straight port wall. The factory never ground it out or made a change to the casting, mind you--the porting was left up to the end user. The intake rocker offset isn't as much as W2/W5 heads and the rockers are getting hard to find, much like the other W-series stuff. The upside, of course, is that they're 100% stock port window so not only would your Six Pack work, the fact is that it's what every factory 340 Six Pack had from the factory for heads. Though they're based on the J castings you've already got, yours can't be modified to that configuration. You'd need new castings but could use your existing valves & springs, but you're still faced with the hard-to-find ductile-iron rockers and would have to have custom pushrods made.
In either case, you're still looking at a couple of thousand bucks worth of heads and valvetrain on top of the stroker combination, which for the record is not a bolt-in-and-go affair in the first place. Even if you buy an already-balanced assembly, you still have block clearances to grind out. To make any combination worth doing and keep your Six Pack setup, figure another $5,000 on top of what you've already got between the stroker kit, balancing, clearancing, and workable cylinder heads.
Regarding the largely-ignored (to this point) 372, which is actually a 373: I can't imagine why this combination exists. It's just a .070"-over 360. That big a bore is not recommended with any factory 360 block, but I can't imagine how the cost of the crank alone is worth the 5 cubes you gain over just just punching a factory 360 .040" over (368 cubes). Is it really that important to have "340" cast into the side of the block?
. The main things are cleanliness & precision. And after you re-check, check it again. There's a lot of literature available to help walk you through it. Also there's more than a few members here that have gone that road more than once. Plus the money saved can be used for other niceties. And to top it off, there is no music ever recorded that sounds sweeter than that first fire-up after you screwed it together yourself. 
