hvac help?

69.5CUDA

69.5CUDA

Blah Blah Blah
ok so my overheat went out..again..its a 250,000 btu pdp?250 pda? something like that..unit using a vr800a-1343 gas valve..the valve is my issue..its dead..the pilot will light and stay lit but the valve for the main flow will NOT power on..yes its getting power..new transformer...and verified voltage

so what valve to i replace it with...3/4 in/out(tho i think the in on it is actualy 1/2 with an adaptor) all the line from the house to it is 3/4 as well as the heater itself is 3/4

id like to have heat for the winter out in the shop....and that beast in a 20x20 only runs a few mins every hour...it can take the temp from 46-80 in 10 mins or less
 
I'd just replace what was there unless you know the current setup was actually problematic beyond the faulty part. I can't imagine the choke point actually caused any discernible flow, volume or pressure problem since you said the heater used to crank. I also doubt that it led to the failure of said part.
 
yeah that part# doesnt exist anymore..thus my problem..and its just the gasline unit..not the heater thats dead
 
Robertshaw 720-400 is listed as a functional replacement in the cross-reference section of their valve catalog. It includes various pipe bushings and adapters, as well as a regulator conversion kit if you're using LP rather than natural gas. Costs well under $100.online As far as I can tell, a direct-fit valve is not available.
 
even tho it shows a rating of 150,00?....im not saying i dont belive the books im just questioning the btu
 
I don't write the books, I just find and use 'em. :D

Regardless, I looked a little further and found a Honeywell replacement. It's part number VR8300A4508/U, which is a similar kit to the other number I provided, meaning it has adapter fittings and an LP conversion kit included. It's rated for 300,000BTU. If you don't want or need the LP kit and will do any needed adapting yourself, you can drop the /U off the end and get the same regulator with no adapter parts whatsoever. Amazon offers that one for $105.82... more expensive, but you'll get it more quickly (2 days if you have Prime) and with free shipping.

Who's your daddy? :dance:
 
i figured if anyone could find me some $'s and info it would be you..tis why i came here....its baffling that the # crosses and is only 150k btu....is the current unit 150k as well or is it higher?
cause hell if its 150k i can save 60$
 
TheVR8300A4508 model with or without the /U on the end, is rated for 300,000BTU (as noted above). Honeywell listed another number as a replacement that was only rated for 200,000BTU but I skipped it. However, I think the more important number is the CFH rating, which is the true measure of the valve's efficiency. The BTU rating of a furnace is dependent on more than the gas valve; things like burner design and efficiency can affect the BTU rating. By the same token, it's probably not possible to have "too much" flow at the valve, since the ultimate arbiter of fuel flow will be the burner itself. I could run 2" pipe from my fuel-oil tank to my furnace and it's not going to change how well the burner works.
 
i get it that the valve is the bottle neck..just trying to see if i can or cant save$$$ ...is the flow of that 50$ robert shaw the same as the one i have?...i figure btu measurement is much like HP he who measures fudges the numbers to their scale

the furnace itself is a simple old dinosaur that i doubt would care one way or another
 
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