Goody's 72 Barracuda

GoodysgotaCuda

Well-known member
:o I bought it not the last, but the November before that. As you see it in the pictures. Just some shameless before and after pics. She's still daily driven rain or shine, though not too much rain out here in the desert. fish makes it interesting to swim when its wet out with 3.91s and a low gear set :xl:

Stock 318 2bbl
old318.jpg

After the original Timing Chain went in the driveway...was being torn apart to change it, decided to rebuild the motor. About Juneish last year.
P1010001_39.jpg

New motor was in
mid.jpg

Today
mota.jpg

interiorbefore.jpg

auto4.jpg

last2.jpg

last1.jpg

last3.jpg

cudabefore.jpg

cuda11.jpg

cuda2.jpg

afterback.jpg



It's changed a lil bit in that year anda half ive had it. new motor, new trans/shift kit/converter/low gear set, 3.91suregrip, rims, tires, some gauges, carpet, alum radiator, electric fan off a HHR, dual trans coolers (1with a fan), ton of wiring under the hood rerouted, just off the top of my head a few things that i've done.

Ok, I'm done now. Carry on :beer:
-Mike
 
wild1_robertson said:
love the dash Did you have to replace the 'teen? How have you been?

Thanks on the dash. The 'teen has just been rebuilt. Got some J-heads, a cam and such. Been doin good, she's still my daily driver and i've made about 15passes or so at the track with it :bravo:


dodgechargerfan said:
I'll be trying to whore a ride in that again next January.

Missed ya last time...

I actually mayyy not be here, may be living it Florida by then [smilie=f:


[quote=Da-ho]What- no time slips???????????????/:helpme:[/quote]

Time was posted in my sig. Sooooooooo far I have a 14.3 @ 96mph. That IS witha 5,100ft d/a. So she's moving well for a 3600lb, 318 powered b'cuda at pretty high elevation. I do have a new torque converter coming, she's just walking off the line at a 2.1 60ft. Going from a 2500stall to a 3800stall. I'm going for 13.80s or bust at 5,000ft :xl:
 
Couple little videos. The burnout is actually the second try. First time the camera didnt record and i boiled 'em pretty good lol, went around the corner and tried it again. What you see is how well cooper cobras hookup when they get some heat, they just go *chirp* and no spin for you. :D [smilie=f:


[url="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v206/goodysgotacuda/?action=view&current=Goodyburnout.flv"]http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v206/goodysgotacuda/?action=view&current=Goodyburnout.flv[/url]


My run against a modded 340, 3.91 challenger on drag radials. His best run of the night was 14.6s, i was 14.3 a few times that night. 5,100ft d/a. You can see with the current converter i have it just kinda walks off the line until about the first 20feet and it wakes up. New one outta be very fun :insert devil smilie:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v206/goodysgotacuda/?action=view&current=Goodydrags_may192006f.flv

:bravo:
 
welp superstock spring/shock swap is waitig for some energy suspension bushings to show up so i can knock that out. The converter should be here within a week...oh my thats gonna be a little moster lol. Probably take a week or two after that to get time to swap it out. and do a couple tranny mods while its out.

Picked up a electronic trunk release at the yard. to be legal at the track with the battery in the trunk i have to have a kill switch back there. the switch will sit where the key hole is and either inside or maybe remote pop for the trunk. Picked up a denso alternator as well :D
 
Did you grab the black plastic wiring block that goes on the back of the Denso Alt? If you did, you won't need it. Just hook your two field wires to the smaller posts and the larger output wire to the big post. The two larger posts on either side of the two small posts are extra grounding studs. You could use one of those posts to ground the alt case to the engine block if you feel it's necissary. I just made sure there was no corrosion on the mounting bracket and engine block mounting points and didn't wory about it on mine though. As far as which small wires go where, just keep the wires oriented the same way as they are on your existing alt. Start at the larger output wire and make note of the color of the next closest wire. The farthest wire from the output wire on the original alt will still be the farthest from the output wire on the new alt. Simple.

The extra output of the new alt will strain your wiring and connectors if it's not up to snuff. The wire itself you can't do much about short of replacing the entire harness but the connectors are your biggest chance for improvement. I'd recommend pulling all your connectors apart one at a time and clean any corrosion off them. When you reattach them use some dielectric grease in the connector. It will give you better conductivity and it will also prevent the corrosion from coming back. Win - win for you.

Be ready to have to fabricate a few different spacers to mount the new alt. The easy way is to get a bunch of washers that will fit loosly over the pivot bolt and just add as many as you need to line up the pullys. Once you're satisfied with the fit, pull it apart and measure the stack of washers and cut a small piece of pipe to the same size. Be sure to also put a spacer in between the mounting ears on the alt or you risk cracking an ear completely off the alt when you tighten it. Don't do that.

The only clearance issue I had with the alt was the black plastic output wire shield. It was hitting the engine block preventing the alt from having any useable swing for adjustment. I just took the output wire from the original harness and cut the the shield off of it but kept the ring connector. Then I took the plastic shield from the new alt and shortened it by about 1/4". Lastly, I bottomed out a nut on the output stud and then cut 1/4" from the end of the stud. Then just take the nut off and it will deburr the stud as it comes off . Take a file to it if you need to but be sure to recheck that you can still get the nut off and on before mounting the alt. Don't ask how I know...

I was able to use the original brackets for the new alt although new ones made specifically for the denso alt would be nicer. Your original fan belt may or may not work. On mine the stock belt was way too long after putting the new alt on. If your original belt doesn't work try this. Just mount the new alt up close to the inside end of your adjustment. You want to leave room to be able to rotate the alt out to tighten the belt. Don't put it all the way in either or you'll have a bitch of a time getting the belt on in the first place. Then use a piece of 3/8" rope or something like it and run it around the pullys in a loop. Then measure the legnth of the loop and take that measurement to your local auto parts store to match it up to the proper size belt. Install belt, tighten and enjoy.
 
Wow thanks for the writeup. Friend of mine did the swap about like you mentioned. I didn't even think of the belt though...thanks. I have bypassed my AMP gauge so the alt output goes straight to the starter relay, or my in my case to the kill switch at the back of the car.

Thanks again
-Mike
 
No reason for you to pull your hair out over something that's already been done and figured out before.:bravo:
 
Waiting on some wire and a circuit breaker to come in so i can put the denso in there. I just got my electronic trunk release in so the kill switch can go where the key cylinder is. I also got another electronic latch for the hood so you cant just walk up and pop it.




:D
 

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