Fluorescent replacement

Dr.Jass

Pastor of Muppets
I ordered some of these a few months back for the reception area of the diesel shop, and the results have been so good I've started to get them for my own garage as well. They're not inexpensive, costing about $17.50 U.S. per bulb, but with a 5-year warranty and an expected lifespan of 45,000 or more hours I think in the long run it will be a wise investment.

In case you don't feel like reading the ad, they're UL Listed, have the above-stated warranty, and are only marginally less bright than a new fluorescent bulb. However, fluoro bulbs dim 20% or more over their significantly-shorter lifetime (8,000 hours) whereas the LEDs dimming is far less dramatic. My former boss' cousin is a salesman for industrial electrical fixtures and supplies, and recommended replacing fluorescent bulbs long before they actually burn out. We did that in the main shop about a year ago, and simply replacing still-working bulbs with new ones made an enormous difference in the brightness in the shop. Coupled with the fact that these LED replacements should last nearly six times as long, in the long run they'll probably end up costing similar money to buying fluorescent bulbs, if not a little less. Since the ballast is taken out of the equation on the ones I bought, I'll never need to replace a ballast, either (or, as is often the case with 4-footers, the whole fixture).

The conversion is easy; all you do is bypass the ballast and wire the "tombstones" to direct 110V. If you have shunted tombstones, not to worry--replacement non-shunted ones actually come with the bulbs!

Drawbacks? Well, they don't light up all the way around so the dispersion isn't quite as good as it is with fluorescents. Then again, much of that light is normally absorbed by the ceiling anyhow. The flip side is that all the lumens are firing down towards where you're working. Regardless, in most cases your fixtures are mounted high enough that you'll never notice. Also, we ordered the clear lenses for the shop reception area, and even behind diffusers the light is still a bit harsh. I ordered the frosted lenses for myself and the light is virtually identical to the old bulbs, right down to the "heat" or color: 4,000°K. For "around the house" use they also offer a "warm white" which is 3,500°K. It's not as bright (probably a good thing in the kitchen) but much closer to the light cast by an incandescent bulb. They're also avaliable in 5,000°K, which are brighter than a standard fluoro but have that ultra-white, almost blue tint to them. That light tends to give me eye fatigue so I stuck with what I know works.
Another drawback is that the bulbs I bought will only work installed into the fixture one way. When you wire the tombstones hot, you only do it at one end. Put the bulb in backwards, and nothing happens. Hyperikon also offers plug-and-play, ballast-compatible bulbs that wire differently and are hot at both ends; if (when) the ballast does fail you then simply bypass it completely and save 8 more watts of electricity in that fixture. The plug-and-play bulbs can go in either way and work just fine, and the cost is similar.

That's it. Those are the two drawbacks, neither of which seemed even close to a deal-breaker for me. I simply marked the fixture "LED only" and noted the "hot end" so I put the bulbs in the right way. The light dispersion simply isn't an issue.

The big deal here, of course, is the energy savings. The LEDs are wired directly rather than through the ballasts, and consume 18W per bulb while generating 2,100 (clear lens) or 2,030 (frosted lens) lumens. The typical 4-foot fluoro bulb consumes 40W to generate 2,200 lumens, plus about 4W/bulb at the ballast. So instead of consuming 88W per fixture, it's down to 36W. That's a 59% reduction in electricity used per fixture. I have eight 4-foot fixtures, which currently consume a total of 704 watts with ballasts and traditional fluoro bulbs. One remains lit as a security light in my garage 24/7. Changing to the LEDs and eliminating the ballasts will drop that to 288 watts, which should make a considerable dent in the electrical bill during the garage-heavy winter months. To that end, about a year ago I replaced all the bulbs in my home with LEDs (and a couple of CFLs) and noticed an immediate change in my electrical bill so I'm expecting great things from this upgrade.

If you've got a bunch of fixtures like I do, it's possibly an upgrade you'll want to do over time due to the expense involved. But the bulbs at the shop convinced me to take it on at home, and hopefully when I've completed converting all my fixtures I'll be able to report back with any dramatic savings on electricity. Mind you, I still have three 8-foot fixtures in the garage into which I recently installed new bulbs and digital ballasts, so I'm not changing those just yet. Plus, those bulbs are about $40 each and only sold in 4-packs at the moment, so I'm in no huge hurry to drop those dollars. We'll see, though. If the 4-footers show instantaneous value on the electrical bill, I may do it sooner than expected.

This is the converted fixture over my basement workbench. I didn't take before/after pictures, but trust me--it's a lot brighter now than it was with the two-year-old 40W fluorescent bulbs that were in it. I couldn't get my camera to focus worth a damn, but you get the idea.

100_0643.JPG
 
id love to see a pair of thosse in person cause im VERY picky on my light..i specificly pay extra for my bulbs as it is as i buy the 6500k? "daylight" bulbs..do i pay extra YES but i dont care cause the light is more often than not BRIGHTER than outside but the same "perfect" colorless light that actualy strains the eyes less than every other bulb ive ever tried

mind you i have 6 2bulb fixtures in my 20x20 shop..i have ZERO shadows....its also the most perfect light for body/paint as nothing seems to hide in it
 
4,000-6,500°K is considered "daylight" or sunlight-equivalent, with the high end of that scale being considered "overcast daylight". 6,500°K is considered a very "bright white" and usually has a slightly-worse CRI than the 4,000°K owing to a mild blue tinge inherent in that color temperature due to the higher UV content. It's literally "too white"; sunlight actually has some warmth to its "color".

Given the weather where you live, it's not surprising that 6,500°K is closer to your usual daylight. 4,000°K is much closer to actual sunny-day weather here. These particular LEDs are only available up to 5,000°K, which would be a little warmer than to what you're accustomed. Other LEDs do go as high as 8,000°K (very harsh) but the combination of price, warranty (5-year unlimited), UL listing (that's huge--a lot of Chinese crap isn't and it's a damned fire hazard), and expected bulb life added up to an unbeatable combination for me.
 
I just saw those lights a couple weeks back, I forget where, but YouTube video comes to mind. Right after that I acquired 3 practically new black 4' lights with bad ballasts, and my mind started working overtime. I haven't done anything with them yet, but hopefully soon I'll find some time to get started.
 
My boss replaced a couple of the overhead high-pressure fixtures with LEDs just before I left. The difference is amazing!
The plan is to get rid of all the high-pressure fixtures in the next year or so. The LED fixtures were pricey in the buy-in... but there's no denying the shop is much brighter.
 
Other than the initial buy-in, which over time pays for itself in bulbs (especially if you have instant-start ballasts; virtually all inexpensive light fixtures do), I can't find any downside to the swap. I swapped my "always on" garage light out last night, and the difference in what I can see in the garage from inside my house was worth it. Those bulbs were going out every 6-8 months previously; the LEDs have a 5-year unlimited warranty.
 
That's great, but keep in mind that this is essentially a much-smaller situation like that of the eco-diesel...these things haven't been out long enough to even come CLOSE to being a known quantity reliability-wise. I'm not saying you made a mistake-given your situation I might well have done the same thing, but it's a pain in the ass to deal with things that break, warranty or not.
 
One of the reasons I waited to order them for myself was I wanted to see if any problems reared their ugly heads with the ones at the shop. Several months in, they were still working perfectly. The time came where I needed bulbs anyhow, so I decided to take the chance. In my case, both of the fixtures I converted for the type of LED I bought had shot non-replaceable ballasts, so the fixtures would've required replacement otherwise. My thought was that if there were faults in the internal step-down power supplies, they'd show up rather quickly. None of the bulbs at the shop have failed and so far I'm happy with mine. Yes, they've only been around for about 5 years, but when companies like Lockheed Martin, Grand/Hyatt Hotels, and Delta Airlines are purchasing your product en masse, chances are you're not building garbage.

I have received two e-mails from Hyperikon asking me if I'm happy with the bulbs, if the instructions were clear enough, etc. and insisting I let them know immediately if I have a problem so they can send out replacements. Hyperikon has a very strong reputation for customer service, which is another reason I chose them over similar units. Between that, the Underwriters Laboratories rating, the large companies that use the same bulbs I bought, etc. I have little worry that there will be an issue. That being said, as time and money allow for me to progress with the replacement process it's likely that I'll buy the double-ended ones that work with the ballasts connected (assuming the ballasts are still OK). That way, should I have an issue, I can always slap a standard tube in place in the event I need to await replacements--although they will ship replacement bulbs out prior to the return of the failed unit(s).
 
That's great, but keep in mind that this is essentially a much-smaller situation like that of the eco-diesel...these things haven't been out long enough to even come CLOSE to being a known quantity reliability-wise.

Actually, not true. LED has been a staple of commercial, industrial and entertainment lighting for 15+ years. What is fairly recent is the prices have come down for mere mortals to be able to use it for things like garages, etc. That was largely due to a bunch of frivolous patents, etc needing to be fought in court, allowing for competition.

LED is a reliable, stable, energy efficient lightsource with a proven track record that just happens to deliver superior quality light, especially when compared to fluorescent. As with anything else, there are plenty of shitty Chinese knock-offs of real products, and I can't speak to the quality of this particular item, but if you spend the money for something from a credible manufacturer, there is no reason not to go LED if your lighting needs replacing.
 
I've been switching to LED as much as I can in the house.
CFLs are the initial target. I hate those things.
Incadescents can stay until they burn out unless I have some pressing need to change them out in a particular place.

I need to find a solution for my office. I've got an IKEA modular track lighting system that only offers halogen fixtures or a 10W low voltage converter - but no appropriate LED fixture to work with it.
My office is like a sauna.
 
Actually, not true. LED has been a staple of commercial, industrial and entertainment lighting for 15+ years. What is fairly recent is the prices have come down for mere mortals to be able to use it for things like garages, etc. That was largely due to a bunch of frivolous patents, etc needing to be fought in court, allowing for competition. LED is a reliable, stable, energy efficient lightsource with a proven track record that just happens to deliver superior quality light, especially when compared to fluorescent. As with anything else, there are plenty of shitty Chinese knock-offs of real products, and I can't speak to the quality of this particular item, but if you spend the money for something from a credible manufacturer, there is no reason not to go LED if your lighting needs replacing.
That is true, but I was talking about the specific manufacturer and parts, not led technology in general.
 
That is true, but I was talking about the specific manufacturer and parts, not led technology in general.

Oh - agreed. As a rule, I would stick with proven manufacturers for retrofit lamps: Osram, Phillips, GE that we know will be around in a few years to support their products. The problem with those giants is they tend to be harder for the man on the street to actually buy unless he knows an electrical contractor who has access to a distributor.

This is a product that I sell that I'm going to replace the dual 8' fluorescent tubes over my workbench with:
 
Well, to point it out once again, when one looks at the corporate giants that are using the brand I purchased, I'm not concerned about them folding up their tents and vanishing into the night.
 
Installed four more of these last week. My garage is slowly going from an unmitigated disaster to a very well-lit unmitigated disaster. :dance:
 

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top