71ChargerRT
Well-known member
Where is that 318 build thread, I can't to find it anywhere...
DAMN IT
- Thread starter 71ChargerRT
- Start date
BootHead
Well-known member
71ChargerRT
Well-known member
Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms.
:huh:
:huh:
BootHead
Well-known member
this one then?
http://www.moparnuts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18883&highlight=engine+thoughts
[quote Dr.Jass]
A friend of mine is in the process of building a 408 stroker, but in the meantime wanted more power from the factory 318 sitting in his '73 Challenger, and wanted to do it at absolute bottom dollar. I'll tell you what I told him:
* Get a set of 360 heads, regardless of year. He used 587s from a 1977 360 I sold him (the basis of his stroker project). Have them milled .020" on the deck surface, and .019" on the intake face (so the manifold will fit correctly). This will help the compression without taking you out of junk 87-octane territory.
* Mr. Gasket #1121 head gaskets or the MP equivalent. More compression, but still crap-gas friendly.
* Port-match the intake and exhaust to their respective gaskets, smoothing the match about 1/2" into the port. Use carbide bur bits and sandpaper rolls for this, but DO NOT do any cutting on the bottom of the exhaust port!
* Clean up the bowl area with sandpaper rolls. If you're courageous, break out the carbides and cut around the guides and smooth out the entire area above the valves and trim the guides... This is fairly obvious stuff--think smooth flow and the mods are pretty easy. If you're afraid to use cutters, just use the sandpaper rolls to smooth things out. The stock valve sizes work great.
* Factory 273 or aftermarket adjustable rockers, ductile iron only. Adjust according to the MP lash-adjustment decal, but we're setting hydraulic-lifter preload. Get each adjuster to zero endplay (you can spin the pushrod but not wiggle it up and down), then tighten 1/2 turn. This will get you the nearly-ideal lifter preload of .021".
* Use a factory '71-up 340/360 four-barrel intake, or if you're willing to drop the coin get a Performer RPM, Weiand Stealth, or a single-plane. Avoid the Edelbrock Performer, SP2P, and StreetMaster intakes like the plague. Junk, all of 'em.
* Minimum carb: 650CFM. No joke. If you can, get a ThermoQuad which will maximize fuel efficiency and power. Learn how to adjust it, or ask me, and it will never bog.
* Headers, period--unless you can afford early 340 manifolds. Back this up with a set of duals, either 2.25" or 2.5" if you plan to go big-block or stroker in the future. Use free-flowing mufflers such as Walker DynoMax, Thrush welded, or Flowmaster (the last if you want to spend a lot). Glasspacks are out--they're the worst-flowing muffler you can put on a car, reversed or not.
* Summit camshaft, part number K6901. Hotter than a 340 cam on the intake, about equal on the exhaust side.
* MP or Pertronix electronic ignition, more if you want to upgrade later (such as a Summit, Mallory, or MSD box). Points suck. Set total advance with vacuum disconnected to about 34-35 degrees, all in by 2500RPM, which may require a lighter spring or two on the advance. With vacuum connected, 50-55 degrees at cruise RPM--this might take some messing around with the advance canister to maintain what you've got without vacuum.
* MSD Blaster 2 coil, part number 8203. Follow the directions. If you want to spend more, I recommend the Crane PS91.
* Minimum 8mm plug wires. Unless you want to spend a lot, avoid Accel wires--the minimum Accel wire I've had any good luck with is the 8.8mm "300+" wires. Taylor or MSD SuperConductors otherwise.
* 340 plugs for the same year as your 318, or 1 heat range colder than the factory 318 plugs (i.e., if you use an RJ12YC, go with an RJ11YC). Champion plugs ONLY.
* Standard Blue Streak cap and rotor, part numbers CH303X (rotor) and CH409X (cap).
Dave followed these recommendations to the letter with the existing 2.25" exhaust and DynoMax mufflers, and swears his 318 will rip the tire loose at 35-40MPH (it's a '73 Challenger with a one-legger 3.23 gear) with a simple stab of the pedal; if he does it during a lane change the car goes sideways. He also says he's not nearly as anxious to build the 408 at this point since the 318 screams the way it does... and while Dave is a professional technician, he's never ported or port-matched Mopar heads previously. He just used common sense with the die grinder. You can easily do the same.
__________________
Too weird to live but much too rare to die...
http://www.moparnuts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18883&highlight=engine+thoughts
[quote Dr.Jass]
A friend of mine is in the process of building a 408 stroker, but in the meantime wanted more power from the factory 318 sitting in his '73 Challenger, and wanted to do it at absolute bottom dollar. I'll tell you what I told him:
* Get a set of 360 heads, regardless of year. He used 587s from a 1977 360 I sold him (the basis of his stroker project). Have them milled .020" on the deck surface, and .019" on the intake face (so the manifold will fit correctly). This will help the compression without taking you out of junk 87-octane territory.
* Mr. Gasket #1121 head gaskets or the MP equivalent. More compression, but still crap-gas friendly.
* Port-match the intake and exhaust to their respective gaskets, smoothing the match about 1/2" into the port. Use carbide bur bits and sandpaper rolls for this, but DO NOT do any cutting on the bottom of the exhaust port!
* Clean up the bowl area with sandpaper rolls. If you're courageous, break out the carbides and cut around the guides and smooth out the entire area above the valves and trim the guides... This is fairly obvious stuff--think smooth flow and the mods are pretty easy. If you're afraid to use cutters, just use the sandpaper rolls to smooth things out. The stock valve sizes work great.
* Factory 273 or aftermarket adjustable rockers, ductile iron only. Adjust according to the MP lash-adjustment decal, but we're setting hydraulic-lifter preload. Get each adjuster to zero endplay (you can spin the pushrod but not wiggle it up and down), then tighten 1/2 turn. This will get you the nearly-ideal lifter preload of .021".
* Use a factory '71-up 340/360 four-barrel intake, or if you're willing to drop the coin get a Performer RPM, Weiand Stealth, or a single-plane. Avoid the Edelbrock Performer, SP2P, and StreetMaster intakes like the plague. Junk, all of 'em.
* Minimum carb: 650CFM. No joke. If you can, get a ThermoQuad which will maximize fuel efficiency and power. Learn how to adjust it, or ask me, and it will never bog.
* Headers, period--unless you can afford early 340 manifolds. Back this up with a set of duals, either 2.25" or 2.5" if you plan to go big-block or stroker in the future. Use free-flowing mufflers such as Walker DynoMax, Thrush welded, or Flowmaster (the last if you want to spend a lot). Glasspacks are out--they're the worst-flowing muffler you can put on a car, reversed or not.
* Summit camshaft, part number K6901. Hotter than a 340 cam on the intake, about equal on the exhaust side.
* MP or Pertronix electronic ignition, more if you want to upgrade later (such as a Summit, Mallory, or MSD box). Points suck. Set total advance with vacuum disconnected to about 34-35 degrees, all in by 2500RPM, which may require a lighter spring or two on the advance. With vacuum connected, 50-55 degrees at cruise RPM--this might take some messing around with the advance canister to maintain what you've got without vacuum.
* MSD Blaster 2 coil, part number 8203. Follow the directions. If you want to spend more, I recommend the Crane PS91.
* Minimum 8mm plug wires. Unless you want to spend a lot, avoid Accel wires--the minimum Accel wire I've had any good luck with is the 8.8mm "300+" wires. Taylor or MSD SuperConductors otherwise.
* 340 plugs for the same year as your 318, or 1 heat range colder than the factory 318 plugs (i.e., if you use an RJ12YC, go with an RJ11YC). Champion plugs ONLY.
* Standard Blue Streak cap and rotor, part numbers CH303X (rotor) and CH409X (cap).
Dave followed these recommendations to the letter with the existing 2.25" exhaust and DynoMax mufflers, and swears his 318 will rip the tire loose at 35-40MPH (it's a '73 Challenger with a one-legger 3.23 gear) with a simple stab of the pedal; if he does it during a lane change the car goes sideways. He also says he's not nearly as anxious to build the 408 at this point since the 318 screams the way it does... and while Dave is a professional technician, he's never ported or port-matched Mopar heads previously. He just used common sense with the die grinder. You can easily do the same.
__________________
Too weird to live but much too rare to die...
71ChargerRT
Well-known member
That sounds like the one!!! Thanks Boot :bravo:
I'm starting with a '67, anything I should do different?
I'm starting with a '67, anything I should do different?