Continuation

J.C. Corbett

or something.....
The rest of the 70 Sport Satellite build post is now dead, so I'll just go from here. I recently sold some stuff, so it's time to buy some more primer, finish block the body, buy paint, and paint this car.

I'm probably not going to get to much for the next couple of weeks, but once I get through that, here's the plan. The trim and such will come back off, and I'm going to finish the top properly, as I'm not going to put a vinyl roof back on the car. The engine and trans need to come out so the bay can be prepped properly, plus the engine really needs to be detailed. While the engine is out, I'm going to go ahead and get rid of that purple shaft cam, and put in something that'll actually run. I'm thinking of a custom grind that'll sound relatively stock, and make killer torque, keeping with the sleeper image of the Sport Satellite. That being said, I'm not going to use the Road Runner hood, so it'll go bye bye, and help finance other parts of the project. The windshield will come out also(it's cracked), which will make changing the interior from brown to blue much easier.

For now, I'm thinking of leaving the stock exhaust in place. I know it doesn't flow as well as a new mandrel bent exhaust, but it's in great shape, it sounds good, and it's original. When the performance really calls for it, I'll replace it with a proper unit, but for now, it's cool.

Recently, I took some detailed pics of another 383HP Sport Satellite with air, in order to properly reassemble and detail my engine bay. When I get them downsized, I'll post them along with pics of my bay so we can all see what I need to do, and maybe some of you can point out anything incorrect in the other car so I can avoid making the same mistakes.

It's been hard to get motivated to work on the car with such limited funding, but it's now back on track, and I know exactly what I want the car to be when done.
 
That's all you can do is chip at it when things line up. I'd think the hood should bring a few bucks in.
 
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Kind of like running out of 80 and using 3 times as much 120 realizing "this is just stupid" and toddling off to patch another rust hole.

Keep plugging, sounds like a good plan.
 
That's all you can do is chip at it when things line up. I'd think the hood should bring a few bucks in.
Agreed. That's what made me take a second look at the wheels on the car. They've been on it since I got it, and though I knew they were black 15 inchers, today is the first time I noticed the H stamped in between the lug holes. I've read somewhere before that the H wheel is the standard early hemi or 69 1/2 six pack wheel, but I can't remember where, or find any info to verify this. My question to you guys is: Is this in fact, true, and if so, what should I expect to get from a set of such wheels(every bit helps) if blasted and painted correctly? While I'm thinking of it, where would I find the date code?
 

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Dude, as much as I'd like to try and pry those out of you I have to be honest here and give you the scoop.
IF they have the right codes and the dates are correct, you're looking at 500ish or PER wheel, 2k easy for a date code matched set.
Look around the valve stem and report back what all that says and how many you have. I'll try and round up a picture describing what you're looking at/for.
On a 1970 car they wouldn't have been stock but maybe you're :cash:
 
Oh yeah, don't answer any pm's from any members you don't recognize until you know what you have.
 
Since it seems you can't send a picture via a pm we'll do it here.

Okay, heres a picture that explains what you're looking at. These were also installed on some c bodies.
All hemi and 6 pack wheels (for 1969) were made at the M5 plant, anything else is 'incorrect'. Anything but a '9' underneath that is 'incorrect' and not worth much.
The date codes are self explanatory, the more you have with the same date the better when it comes time to sell.
The 60 to the right of the valve is the width,
60 = 6 inch width = correct $$$,
65 = 6.5 inch width = incorrect = no value

At a guess I would think you could get a 800-1000$ for the pair it appears you have.

I'll add that at least one person is making close copies and another is working on full reproductions.

More info here if anyone cares.
http://a12mopar.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1199768890
 

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Thanks, and great link, a12!:) I've been gone roping all weekend, so I didn't get a chance to take any date code pics for you, but the camera batteries are charging right now.
 
Thats okay, the pic and link and what I posted will tell you everything you need to know. :) :2thumbs:
 
Okay, here's the scoop. I have a renter in the apartment attached to my garage, and she sleeps until about 8 at night, due to working nights, so I haven't touched the car lately. Today, she starts swing, so I was able to get out to the garage and make some noise!:giggedy: I know, I should've pulled the trim and bumpers first, but I had a buffer and several 40 grit discs in hand, so the roof got stripped. Considering the car had a vinyl top originally, the top is in great shape, save for a couple of wows in the sheetmetal. No problem. I also need to cut some plugs and weld up the vinyl top trim holes. I have a very nice set of vinyl top trims that will be coming onto the market soon. The 40 grit takes paint, primer, and junk off well, and leaves an excellent surface for filler and primer adhesion. Tomorrow some parts will come off, but I just had to bust some paint today.:shifty:
 

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