Another road trip in Patches....

i used to come along shit onto trailers......and have done the chain hoist too, hell i chained my winch down to a few trailers before adding a reciever..once you go winch you realise how much a pain any other way is

after having a second rig with semi stuck brakes on a trailer is when i realised a snatchblock hookup at the tail of the trailer is IDEAL not only can you use it to pull stuff off, but you can use it as a cable guide and a pre pulled hook point for when you eaither A dont want to pull the winch all the way in or B will be in a hurry...theres a lil safety in it too...should the car/truck fail while your pulling it off and suddenly its free rollin its not going far still attached to the winch at which point the load wont be on the snatch in the slightest
 
I was looking at my trailer yesterday after getting the truck off to see where such a rear mounted receiver could go. The darn under trailer mounts to store the ramps are in the way though, but if I lose the center marker light I might be able to recess it there?

What do you use to power the winch? Do you have a power connection run to the back of the truck to hook to, or do you have a separate 12V battery mounted on the trailer?
 
I was looking at my trailer yesterday after getting the truck off to see where such a rear mounted receiver could go. The darn under trailer mounts to store the ramps are in the way though, but if I lose the center marker light I might be able to recess it there?

At the rear, I think he just suggested an eyelet to which you could connect a snatch block. This is sorta how my garage winch is set up--I have two anchors in the concrete near the overhead door into which eyelets can be installed. The winch stays in the same place (by the front of the car parked nose-in) and the eyelets support the snatch block. The cable goes from winch to snatch block, then back toward the winch to a forward spot on the car. Voilà! I can pull cars out of the garage, too.


What do you use to power the winch? Do you have a power connection run to the back of the truck to hook to, or do you have a separate 12V battery mounted on the trailer?

I installed a quick disconnect on my little 3,500lb Badlands winch. I then took a pair of 25' jumper cables and cut them 18" from one end, and installed quick disconnects on each side of the cut. When the winch is used in the garage, I set a battery on the floor next to it and the short cables reach. If I put the winch into a hitch, the long side is a 23½' extension to reach the vehicle's battery. Best of all, I still had a perfectly-functional 25' set of jumper cables.
The disconnects I used are Buyers #5601015, which are grey, fit 4-gauge wiring and are rated for 600A. They also make a set of blue ones with the same specs under part #5601016, but it's important to note: The blue will not connect to the grey so don't mix colors! Need to be even more he-man? The red ones (5601017) are 2-gauge rated to 800A, and the black (5601018) are 2-gauge but rated to 1,000A. All of these plugs will only connect to another plug of the same color. Red will not plug into black, blue or grey, vise-versa, etc.

Buyers actually sells cables already set up this way, but they only sell them with eyelet mounts on one end. They are not inexpensive.

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One other thing I'll mention here since it's very important: If you're considering going this route, spend the money on pure copper cables. No, they're not cheap. However, as proven in my case, copper-clad aluminum cables will fail in very short order. The long side of my cables were behind the seat in my Dakota for about three years. When I removed them, the clamps nearly fell off--the cables had rotted right through and the only thing holding them together was the insulation.
 
docs got it right, you really only need an eyelet or even a bolt hole or bolt just something to "quick attach" a snatch to
as for power, lets face it most of us have a battery laying around we could quickly grab with the winch and toss in the bed of the truck along with the winch, and the leads on those badlands are pretty damn long..useualy long enough to get from trailer deck to tail gate

for anyone with a tow dolley id reccomend getting one of the HF stacked hitches..yes they are garbage BUT, you slip the winch into the top one for use of dragging cars up a dolley, afte that you can just pull the assy back out and go back to your reciever..i willl NOT haul with the extension but being able to use the winch for dolley drag up is nice since dolleys useualy have short steep ramps

doc youve got your garrage setup similar to my shop with the exception ive for 3 stainless 4 bolt "pads" set into the drivewayy/shop floor any of which can take winch or snatch..smooth and removeable, once set WAY out so i can drag in/out about 50 ft at the same time said point is at the turn behind the house so i can use that same point to run the full main driveway length...the idea was to make everything possible to "1 man job" it.....also an extension cord can be used to modify the winch hand control so you can steer the car and run the winch at the same time
 
Doc those are SB175 connectors. Don’t know where they’re getting that 600 amp rating. Maybe temporarily they’ll take it.
 
Doc those are SB175 connectors. Don’t know where they’re getting that 600 amp rating. Maybe temporarily they’ll take it.

That being a peak or surge rating would be my guess. You can buy a relay rated for 200A pretty inexpensively, but a continuous-duty 200A-rated relay is one expensive sumbitch. However, according to their own .pdf, the 1/0 SB175 is rated for 280A.[/URL]
 
hell even a 100amp cont unit is pricey...its what blew out in my sheetmetal welder, i managed to bandaid it a few times but its DONE
 
With all this great idea for the trailer, and the shop I guess I'll have to bump the priority up on all of this. I have vehicles that I will need to move in and out by myself but I also have my 1989 Case 1845C skid steer...named Mud BTW...that gets the job done, but the old girl probably won't last forever and nice to have other options.

Used Mud to drag pull the truck off the trailer yesterday...

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that ole case is probably the same model as the second piece of equipment i was allowed to drive solo..good ole rigs

ill snap some pics of the rig i made up for a snatch block for ya.. i used the same spacing on it as i did for the reciever pad so things can be swapped and moved as needed
 

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