anger forces buy
- Thread starter 69.5CUDA
- Start date
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
most guys woulda punched holes in the lift or welded to it, and i considered it, but the thing is i use that lift far to much too many ways and drag it around too much to just mod it, just made more sense to make something that bolts in and can be EASILY removed with no side effects
bonus now my vice and the bender can be plugged into any hitch, and i can slip the winch into the lift to make it easier to drag down the driveway when i need to
i did a few stray bends on another scrap chunk of 1-3/4x120 and it amazes me how easy it bends..ive figured out the bend angle for the lloyds roof to be about 75deg as the body has a slight angle to it outward
now my next trick is i need to calculate the exact start point at which the bender starts the bend..so i can do a roof hoop...i forsee the need to make some kind of multi angle guage for this
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
picked up some 1.75x.095 and i can tell you after a few test bends and rough measurements to guage EXACTLY where a bend starts based on the shoe clamp, the die etc, going thru and STAMPING the main die with 0deg marks(i dont have a number set so i used a 0 as a mark and a T for a pointer) it gave me a good feel for the rig, after 3-4 test bends i had a solid feel for how much springback i would get and made an aditional mark on my follower die as the springback point
that said i picked up more tubeing...and set out to map how to do a main hoop...scary bit doing that so no pic;'s, nail biting terror knowing for every failur would be 40$...thank god im not bothering with DOM right now at 250$ per 20ft and..TBH dom versus EWR is...the same strength hell its the same steel and the same tube..dom is the erw with a die run down it to verify perfect round and flatten the weld...thats all dom is
knowing my bend starts, i realised the only way to do a main hoop right would be to centerline the car and then mark the centerline of the tube...i knowing my tube length would be close to 10ft based on calculations
now heres where a tip n trick comes in...save those test bends!!!!!!, in fact i intend to save various bends, and for every die i buy i will have a set of bends...mark your bolt point, your shoe point, your die start point, with these you can hold a bend anywhere and use that die start point as a measurement, otherwise you just need form of angle guage and or multiples, to which i grabbed a multi angle 4 ft adjustable from HF ..being in this case the top comes off its simple to work with to figure angles, bonus points is with this 48 in. Adjustable T-Square
and the grizzley die set you can lock your angle on this t-square(use a lock nut on the backside) and then you can set it on the follower die and your tube and see if your angle matches......degree marks are one thing but to be able to verify correct angle match is a godesend
i set out on my 1ft stick with a centerline and bent out the first 2 bends 11inches from centerline, at roughly 75deg, which...at the roofline across i needed 36.75 MAXIMUM, and i managed to nail it first go round, using the same test bend to figure out where it should be based on the window line i ran a 20deg, and..nailed em, with 2 inches of spare tube on each end of exact dead nuts measured from the holding bolt point
all said...im tickled pink...but the stress from it is serious...i cant imagine dom.......but if you blow some ewr and nail it copying in dom would be cake!
found issues trying to get the bar into the car, found more issues once i got it in...like you cant even imagine the amount of little things there are involved with a cage to get in your way that will force your hand that change everything....and youll likely have to flex a main hoop to get it into the car if your looking for a "tight" fit like i am...that said i got it in rough placement and got hit in the back of the head as it fell....i spent a good 2 hours fighting wih the bar and the seat, finding i needed more than 20 on the down sides, that 2inches of end tube had to come off and i need another degree of bend at the top because i need the whole assy to move back so im not clobbering my skull on it while sitting in the seat
still the main hoop fits, works and only needs minor tweaks...i suspect i wont bother with dom...as the .095 ewr is overkill...hell erw in .095 in 1.5 is overkill on a sub 3000lb car, in fact 1.5 120 dom as i recall is rated for a 8.5sec 1/4 mile car under 3000lbs
ill grab some more pic's today when i get at it....but i can tell you..anyone who wants to bend tube....this is the combo to get if you dont want to blow a ton of money ....i mean hell im not even sure its a clone anymore i think its the source ...the ONLY way you could save any money would be to use sendcutsend and have them cut all your heavy bits, and then have someone turn you the pins....as far as paying for a name brand goes....unless you getting it for a screaming deal your not going to benifit from the "name"
that said i picked up more tubeing...and set out to map how to do a main hoop...scary bit doing that so no pic;'s, nail biting terror knowing for every failur would be 40$...thank god im not bothering with DOM right now at 250$ per 20ft and..TBH dom versus EWR is...the same strength hell its the same steel and the same tube..dom is the erw with a die run down it to verify perfect round and flatten the weld...thats all dom is
knowing my bend starts, i realised the only way to do a main hoop right would be to centerline the car and then mark the centerline of the tube...i knowing my tube length would be close to 10ft based on calculations
now heres where a tip n trick comes in...save those test bends!!!!!!, in fact i intend to save various bends, and for every die i buy i will have a set of bends...mark your bolt point, your shoe point, your die start point, with these you can hold a bend anywhere and use that die start point as a measurement, otherwise you just need form of angle guage and or multiples, to which i grabbed a multi angle 4 ft adjustable from HF ..being in this case the top comes off its simple to work with to figure angles, bonus points is with this 48 in. Adjustable T-Square
and the grizzley die set you can lock your angle on this t-square(use a lock nut on the backside) and then you can set it on the follower die and your tube and see if your angle matches......degree marks are one thing but to be able to verify correct angle match is a godesend
i set out on my 1ft stick with a centerline and bent out the first 2 bends 11inches from centerline, at roughly 75deg, which...at the roofline across i needed 36.75 MAXIMUM, and i managed to nail it first go round, using the same test bend to figure out where it should be based on the window line i ran a 20deg, and..nailed em, with 2 inches of spare tube on each end of exact dead nuts measured from the holding bolt point
all said...im tickled pink...but the stress from it is serious...i cant imagine dom.......but if you blow some ewr and nail it copying in dom would be cake!
found issues trying to get the bar into the car, found more issues once i got it in...like you cant even imagine the amount of little things there are involved with a cage to get in your way that will force your hand that change everything....and youll likely have to flex a main hoop to get it into the car if your looking for a "tight" fit like i am...that said i got it in rough placement and got hit in the back of the head as it fell....i spent a good 2 hours fighting wih the bar and the seat, finding i needed more than 20 on the down sides, that 2inches of end tube had to come off and i need another degree of bend at the top because i need the whole assy to move back so im not clobbering my skull on it while sitting in the seat
still the main hoop fits, works and only needs minor tweaks...i suspect i wont bother with dom...as the .095 ewr is overkill...hell erw in .095 in 1.5 is overkill on a sub 3000lb car, in fact 1.5 120 dom as i recall is rated for a 8.5sec 1/4 mile car under 3000lbs
ill grab some more pic's today when i get at it....but i can tell you..anyone who wants to bend tube....this is the combo to get if you dont want to blow a ton of money ....i mean hell im not even sure its a clone anymore i think its the source ...the ONLY way you could save any money would be to use sendcutsend and have them cut all your heavy bits, and then have someone turn you the pins....as far as paying for a name brand goes....unless you getting it for a screaming deal your not going to benifit from the "name"
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
adjustable height mounting is VERY usefull as you can replicate bends EXACTLY without the need to reverse calculate them, by allowing the full tube to be bent over/under the rig, on closer inspection youll note an assload of spacers...this was to take out as much "floating slop" as possible while leaving it able to float to center...it makes getting things mocked up a whole lot simpler and is and issue on ALL rigs
note the bend, note the marks....this was a testbed piece that i used to re-calculate every bend i need, as well as set the degree marks and calculate for spring back as well as bend offsets, probably the most usefull measurement device once you have a rig
big ass adjustable t-square..used mostly for double checking angles on the fly while bending
degree marks on dies, as well as a "spring back" make in paint made on the follower die, obviously the spring back will change with every thickness of material thus why its in paint...but marking out the degree's on the die side vs useing the degree wheel makes a whole lot more sense...your on the die side of the rig pulling and cant see the degree wheel or pointer from where youll be standing
end subject..moving back into the lloyd thread
note the bend, note the marks....this was a testbed piece that i used to re-calculate every bend i need, as well as set the degree marks and calculate for spring back as well as bend offsets, probably the most usefull measurement device once you have a rig
big ass adjustable t-square..used mostly for double checking angles on the fly while bending
degree marks on dies, as well as a "spring back" make in paint made on the follower die, obviously the spring back will change with every thickness of material thus why its in paint...but marking out the degree's on the die side vs useing the degree wheel makes a whole lot more sense...your on the die side of the rig pulling and cant see the degree wheel or pointer from where youll be standing
end subject..moving back into the lloyd thread